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RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more

Definitely the vampire special.. sleep pattern all inverted.

The HP will have 17 db range for adjustment with a 100k pot, 20 db with a 200k pot. The LP will have an 8 db range with a 200k pot. If you want a wider range then it will require a slightly different selection of LP values (same slope and crossover point just a different basis). But the LP starts off 3 db lower.

There is nothing wrong with the cermets at the lower end of their adjustment that is not also wrong with anything else.
First of all, do you really want a 25 turn pot? and a screwdriver adustment? These are not designed to be adjusted regularly and will eventually fail - but I guess crossovers are not likely to be adjusted anywhere near the frequency of the volume or balance controls. But they are indecently cheap so maybe worth the effort of replacing them every couple of years. Of all the trimmers on viewcom, I know of only the Vishay Spectrol 43p series as being actually linear taper. The others i am not sure, though.

I was thinking more along the lines of this:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=3852A-282-104AL-ND

or this Carbon from PEC
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=RV4L254C-ND

But they are 10 times the cost. So you got me thinking of trimmers too.
Switch records time for the final 2 movements. Tchaikovsky PC3.

The silver fairy costs dearly, I decided on my DIY cable as a compromise over straight silver. I just couldn't see myself spending so much before I have so many other things taken care of. The Cardas litz is very delicate and I would only try using it for the entire cable if I were willing to dress it so that it does not tear under normal use. I am still using my own cable undressed and I do have to be very careful with it though it is nowhere near as delicate as the litz. But i would not be afraid of the solder joint and if the guy at audioorigami likes it, there are very good mic cables from the pro audio guys that perform very well. Actually, Mogami produces some audiophile quality cabling in their studio gold line.
Actually, on the Prelude arm sitting on the Alexandria the cardas litz goes to the RCA Jacks.

I might get to building something like that idea for a concentric horn loaded system. I played around with simple waveguides on my tympani and It does appear like an interesting prospect. I put a 10+" deep horn on my midrange (95 db sensitive) I left the volume setting as it was and it nearly blew my ears out, they rang for weeks. I think I got to something like 105 db sensitivity. I think one of my preamps can play that.

I am a little stuck with the Lenco project as I don't want to demount the parts off the stamped plinth and mount them on the heavy steel plate that is really needed to do the job right. Otherwise I would need to start with a wood top layer and a second layer to space out to the recess under-the platter. The tiles are slightly thick for the spacer function, but with a wood one I would have looser coupling to the slate and suspect insufficient vibration attenuation.

I got to listen to a Tannoy monitor at an audio show a long time ago, but the best of the Tannoys are the named speakers. The folded horns behind the main horn are also transmission lines, and they are the bulk of the cost, but produce prodigious loud tight bass.

If you have a problem with uneven spring tension and adjustment of the pillar feet, so the top plinth is sitting on the body, then you can try getting it suspended by simply putting some risers under the feet to get the outer plinth high up enough to suspend the body from it. I sm so hsppy I gave it to the tech to fix up. I really don't want to deal with that. Mechanical things break and can't be soldered back in place....

Well, when it shows up, give us a heads up if the 304 is all you remembered it to be.

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