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RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more

Thanks Satie,
Sorry for the slight delay in replying, - time difference!

So to measure the tweeters you reckon I would need to disconnect one connection only? Andy reckoned to do both? He had not heard of the hot gun thing though which is encouraging, - he reckons you only need a soldering iron.

There is something funny going on with these speakers as the tweeters work when nothing at all is inserted in the tweeter attenuation slot (see my post above), so I'm going to open up the connections panels tonight and see if they've been tampered with by a modder (must have been for sure for the tweeters to behave like that).

I have a strong feeling its the duller tweeter thats the culprit. Like you say it might have had a repair or something. The problem I see is that measuring the DC resistances of both tweeters might not tell me much (if they are the same), - the idea of swapping tweeters from speaker to speaker does seem like a better way to tell if its a bad tweeter for sure.
But I agree its a bit impractical and I'd like to avoid it if possible.
Could I test with the tweeters still installed in the speaker, by unsodering the connections, and connecting them up to a power amp (such as my low powered tube amp?, 15WPC), possibly with a cap in series to stop any oscailliation, and send a +2 KHz or so HP signal from the Behrginer to the power amp? Unfortuantely my art audio valve amp has 8 ohm tap only, - but might it work just to test if I am careful? My SS amps I think are too high powered, the smallest one I have is a 35WPC Creek 4040 S3.

Cheers,
Colin

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