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RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more

Re Technics tonearm.
The wire you prefer should be based on the cartridges you prefer. If you have a tendency to get tizzy MCs with more than life high end extension, get the copper. If you tend to end up with round tip cartridges with pronounced top end rolloff get the silver since it tends to do skin effect better over time. Generally speaking, you get longer life from silver because it tarnishes to silver sulfide which is a conductor, whereas the copper oxide layer on the copper - which thickens over the years, is a semiconductor and the cabling becomes more reactive over time, Particularly at high frequencies.

Re Troika, so you are saying I need to put in pins on my leads? I'll just get a set of long pins and put them in my tags so they overhang and attach the Troika tags. I guess the extra wire will get pulled back and taped onto the headshell.

Re Pots for PLLXO, I think the best solution to give you sufficient control is to have pots on both top and bottom, something like a 100k pot on the HP, in series before the filter, and a 100k pot on the LP in series after the filter. If you want to keep the HP free of pots, then you would need to add a fixed resistor in series sufficient to cut HP volume by 16 db - something like a 70k resistor, and then LP would need a 100k pot. The combined min impedance with the added fixed resistor on the HP and the pot on the LP (after the filter) would be some 30+ K actually, better than I calculated earlier. Very good for a tube pre. The insertion loss would be significant however, something like 16 db min, leaving the quad pre out of the question. With the two pot solution there would always be a combination that would work for either the quad pre or a tube pre.

The impedance of the naked HP is 1.8K. so the combined impedance would be some 1.6k. If you add the pot on the hp, you would be adjusting it to a higher impedance on the HP and can keep it high enough for a tube amp.

The older series technics mk II tables were heavier and more expensive because of dicrete control circuitry and then new technology, I can't say they were any better since the controls would be quicker in an integrated circuit, which is present in the later tables.

Re Tantalums - I never tried them but they have a very good reputation, try them if you can afford them.

The Lenco plinth will be constructed of soft slate tiles I spent hours selecting out of 4-500, pinged them all and picked those with the best decay and least ringing. These will be set with polymer fiber reinforced mortar so that I can drill into the slate without disintegrating it, to provide some CLD effects.

I think that the place to provide the woody resonances and tubey romantic sounds is in the tape loop of your preamp. Add it in when it is needed. There are plenty of thin sounding recordings and you are likely to have much recourse to this but there are plenty of recordings that need just a minimal interference. The LP12 as a deliberately euphonic device is entirely acceptable as an alternative source. Using it as an only turntable, which is where most people would be, is not kind to their music. On the other hand, trying to make the LP12 a perfect solution for the single table system has not panned out, as the upgrades that make it more dynamic, resolving and extended also make it less euphonic and less able to handle weak recordings.

My thought on this is that the solution is a tube buffer in a wood box -Maple bottom Ash sides and spruce top. 6N1P tubes if the system is lacking in dynamics, 6922 or 6SN7 for powerful but slightly romanticized sound, and 12Ax7/12AU7/12AT7 for truly romantic voicing, and a circuit similar to the Eastern Electric BBA - or simply take the BBA and replace its sidewalls and top with spruce and whatever other wood you would want to color the most microphonic tubes you can find.

I have in the back of my mind this Carver Amazing like speaker composed of large diameter neodymium magnet woofers and a line source of Neo 8 or NEO 8 PDR. Another one is a truly big woofer sitting behind a line source of Neos in concentric horns. Here's one woofer that caught my eye: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-895

and this for the Carveer like speaker: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-136&ctab=1#Tabs

The concentric horn idea actually came from seeing a Tannoy Westminster and hearing a Klipshorn, then reading about the Beveridge waveguided ESL.
I figured my approach would eliminate the need for the heavy transmission line box by using low FS subs in a broad baffle (horns) with minimal backwave control - heavily stuffed slotted box.

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