Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

RE: Not the examples you gave.

Those appliances are mostly a motor and switch

No motors inside of electric cooktops or built in ovens, also no motors in electric water heaters.

If you've ever seen sparks, smoke and flame shoot out of the vents of an amp or TV with so-called protection circuitry, you would understand why hardwiring by itself is not advisable.

Nope never seen that happen in over 40 years, but have seen some blown fuses....and tripped circuit breakers. My guess is that if anyone has seen sparks or smoke or flame shoot out of an electrical appliance the house does not have modern circuit breakers. Now-a-days circuit breakers will trip pretty easily.

A lot of hardwired heavy duty equipment has a main power disconnect of some kind to shut off power in the case of an emergency or when servicing is required.

Which is why hardwiring only the wall end is best....leave the component end with a IEC plug. In this way you eliminate two birds [the outlet and the male plug] while still having the same safety as anyone would have with a cord encapsulated to the gear with a plug on the end....that is ONE connection to disconnect from power. Its like moving the plug to the end of a power cord.

WARNING DO NOT WORK WITH ANYTHING ELECTRICAL INCLUDING WALL PLATES, WALL OUTLETS, AC CORDS, AC CORD ENDS, OR ANYTHING THE CONDUCTS CURRENT.



Edits: 04/24/10

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  • RE: Not the examples you gave. - Dynaudio_Rules 11:08:03 04/23/10 (0)

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