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RE: From my experience w/the 2.7qr

Posted by Davy (A) on August 9, 2010 at 09:45:37

In Reply to: From my experience w/the 2.7qr posted by delaney@rea-alp.com on August 9, 2010 at 09:10:33:

Definitely, for these speakers in passive mode 200 Watts into 4 ohms is where to start! Preferably more of course like we've all been saying.

It might be an idea for you to do what I'm comtemplating myself and try active Biamping the 2.7s (you could employ Satie's idea of using a pretty cheap Behringer DXC2496 active crossover to provide the low pass signal required for the bass panel, hence bypassing the power sapping component in the 2.7s passive crossover that would normally be in place.) I am no expert but I guess driving the bass panel actively directly from the power amp like this with no components in between would allow you to use something with less grunt (if I am wrong someone please chime in)
Then for the mid/tweeter you could use Satie's idea of bypassing the active crossoer and simply using a line level capacitor before the second power amp to give the high pass signal required to input to the speakers passive crossover for the mid/tweeter section. If you use a better quality active crossover or an upgraded Behringer you could drive the mid/tweeter panel from the active crossover too and you wouldn't need to bypass it (and use the line level cap to provide the filtering).

I am pretty sure this would be a better option that passive biamping (which you can't do without getting inside the speaker anyway). And you already have two power amps (not the best for these speakers like others have pointed out, but it might stand a chance of working Ok in active drive and being a big improvemnet over what you have now). A Behringer DCX2496 is very cheap used and pretty cheap new as well. Probably a lot cheaper than getting a suitable amp for passive operation. I don't know the Behringer myself yet but according to Satie its bass performance is phenomenal and it has further advantage in that it can also be used to do room correction, shape the bass response in general and has a delay function, which many other more audiophile active crossovers don't do. Its just that without modification the Behringer sounds a bit rough for doing the filtering for the mid/treble section, which is why its a good idea to bypass it for the mid/treble sections and use it only feeding the bass panel.

Its simpler to buy a more powerful amp for passive operation but if you are prepared to get inside the speaker (which like I say you would need to do to achieve passive biamping you had been comtemplating) I think you might as well go active anyway , - you are likely to get much better results, - you'll just have to shell out a small outlay for a Behringer DCX2496 to do it.

Cheers,
Colin

Edits: 08/09/10

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