Tweakers' Asylum

Pics attached... they say "47K0 FC" on one side, "VSH1 9643" on the other.

76.99.185.190

hukkfinn

In Reply to: RE: Yes, but which Vishay and what flavor do you want? posted by Ric Schultz on February 09, 2010 at 23:11:22

Sorry for poor pic quality. Best I could do.

Actually they have different numbers. One is VSH1 9643 and the other is VSH1 9117. Surprising because I think they are left and right channel.

Hukk

Follow Ups:

No wonder.....VSH are bad sounding. - Ric Schultz 13:57:34 02/16/10 (1)
You got the only Vishay bulk foil resistor that sounds like crap. Tried them from Percy Audio years ago and they are grainy/bright...bad. The ceramic coating kills the good sound. Also you never want to hang a component in the air on two solid core leads.....it rings. Put a small piece of contrained layer damping material from the resistor body to some other surface. You could use a tiny bit of amazing Goop from the resistor to another surface as well.

Get rid of em!!!!
- Is damping material necessary if I just mount them flush to the board? - hukkfinn 11:12:38 02/18/10 (0)
  Thanks for your helpful thoughts.
  Hukk
See the linked pdf file for explanation of numbers. - Al Sekela 16:16:06 02/10/10 (2)
The resistors are 47K ohm bulk metal foil types with different date codes. Your poor sonic results may be due to the poor installation technique: the resistors should NOT be mounted way up in the air on their leads, the way your photo shows. This invites noise induction and makes the circuit susceptible to acoustic vibration.
- Vishay VSH datasheet. (Open in New Window)
- Wow....thank you! - hukkfinn 16:41:37 02/10/10 (1)
  What would be the correct way to install them?
  
  That's really good to know. Thank you.
  
  Hukk
  - Leads should be dressed to be as short as possible. - Al Sekela 15:13:11 02/11/10 (0)
    Be careful not to create a short to the soldered termination of the cable, which appears to be close to the resistor in your photo.
    
    To fix this you will need a small soldering iron and some solder-wick. I would use a little liquid solder flux to minimize the time you have to apply the soldering iron to the joint to get it to melt, and to assist the wick to remove as much of the old solder as possible. Overheating the joint could damage the resistor and the metal of the printed circuit. Clean off the solidified remaining flux after you are done with the repair: it is resin and not harmful, but looks bad.
    
    Better to have help from someone with experience if you are unsure about this.

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