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In Reply to: RE: Help me figure out my vibration control approach posted by LewinskiH01 on October 07, 2009 at 19:39:16
Sadly, there is no one or two right answers to this. The situations are idiosyncratic and experimentation may be your best bet.
I'd suggest you don't do anything permanent at first, but mock up a structure that allows you to test various combinations of isolation and coupling. When you've settled in on all the elements, then you can bolt it down permanently.
My own stuff uses complex combinations to control vibrations in vertical and horizontal/rotational dimensions. The rack is one thing, the shelves are another, the footers for the shelves and those for the components on the shelves involve different constructs.
I like the following:
1) rotational/horizontal couplers for component feet (DIY roller clones)
2) seismic sink for shelving (DIY symp clones)
3) vertical isolators (Norsorex balls)
4) stiff metal (stuffed/damped) for the frame
5) cones from frame into floor with discs on bottom
And I have yet to experiment with cones between shelving levels on the struture, which I think will improve it further.
If you really want to go whole hog, then you do something about the weighty and stiff wires coming out the back of the components (PCs, ICS, cables, etc.), you damp the casings of the components, and then maybe you experiment with weight on top of them.
That should give you enough to play with for another year!
Follow Ups:
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Would you classify Stillpoints as rotational/horizontal couplers for component feet or vertical isolators?
The frame I'm looking at will be very stiff, but won't allow stuffing. Maybe I should try to achieve damping at the structural level by some other means.
Which approaches could I use for damping the casing of my Rotel CD player and preamp? Their cheap casings might benefit from that.
To make sure I understand what you are using, for example for your CD player are you using the player sitting on DIY roller clones, in turn sitting on a seismic sink, which in turn sits on Norsorex balls, which in turn sits on the actual shelf of the rack?
Yes, I have for at least a year's worth of fun. Add room acoustics and I'm good for a while!
Thank you!
Horacio
Why not construct wooden cases for the Rotel, etc, especially the top cover should be easy to replace? I have a phono preamp that I just took out of its steel casing and replaced by a block of exotic South American wood (I don't remember it's name). It made a big difference.
Edits: 10/08/09
Interesting. Actually I did think about wooden casing, but concluded the casing would end up not being structurally stiff if the wooden sides needed to be glued or nailed.
How did you implement the wooden casing? You mentioned starting from a block of wood. Did you carved out the inside to make room for the component? That would be a lot of work, and a waste of wood!
Actually, I just got the block of wood and screwed the circuit board to it and put some felt feet on the bottom. I don't have enough power tools to do anything fancy, such as a table saw and router, only a drill and circular saw. So you don't need to do much to improve upon a metal casing -- no case actually sounds better, but make sure no high-voltage is exposed.
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