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In Reply to: RE: Experimentation because YMMV posted by bartc on October 08, 2009 at 05:49:43
Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
Would you classify Stillpoints as rotational/horizontal couplers for component feet or vertical isolators?
The frame I'm looking at will be very stiff, but won't allow stuffing. Maybe I should try to achieve damping at the structural level by some other means.
Which approaches could I use for damping the casing of my Rotel CD player and preamp? Their cheap casings might benefit from that.
To make sure I understand what you are using, for example for your CD player are you using the player sitting on DIY roller clones, in turn sitting on a seismic sink, which in turn sits on Norsorex balls, which in turn sits on the actual shelf of the rack?
Yes, I have for at least a year's worth of fun. Add room acoustics and I'm good for a while!
Thank you!
Horacio
Follow Ups:
Why not construct wooden cases for the Rotel, etc, especially the top cover should be easy to replace? I have a phono preamp that I just took out of its steel casing and replaced by a block of exotic South American wood (I don't remember it's name). It made a big difference.
Edits: 10/08/09
Interesting. Actually I did think about wooden casing, but concluded the casing would end up not being structurally stiff if the wooden sides needed to be glued or nailed.
How did you implement the wooden casing? You mentioned starting from a block of wood. Did you carved out the inside to make room for the component? That would be a lot of work, and a waste of wood!
Actually, I just got the block of wood and screwed the circuit board to it and put some felt feet on the bottom. I don't have enough power tools to do anything fancy, such as a table saw and router, only a drill and circular saw. So you don't need to do much to improve upon a metal casing -- no case actually sounds better, but make sure no high-voltage is exposed.
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