- Posted by Satie (A) on September 16, 2010 at 13:15:43
In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 16, 2010 at 09:28:13
On a Rega3- MC20 was spectacular, but I "upgraded" from OC7 to OC9 MC20 went back to its owner. What the OC9 did is put dynamic snap into the Rega and extend it to the extreme FR more pronounced way. Resolution of the speakers did not allow the crude nature of its sound to come through.
Re drain wire idea has to have some experimentation as to where to position it for best effect. you can try a tiny tab of adhesive tape on the side of the cart, the headshell, or end of the tonearm. Yes, the wire should be dragging behind the cart.
BTW always wipe the record on the platter with a carbon fiber brush before playing while grounding yourself or the brush.
Finally, if all fails, use distilled or RO water on the record while playing. It kills the static. When I was doing that, the PITA was getting the played record to dry without collecting dust. so I took two 12" squares of cardboard and stapled microfiber towels to each, and placed the played record between them (horizontally) to dry. When flipping sides I had not had a problem on the plastic mats. Even the sticky Oracle mat didn't mind the water.
Ok What is a cheap Rohman or Jubilee? $1000? $500? Wasn't the 2000 II predecessor to the Jubilee? I'll check out the old Speakerbits auction. I found some of its pages quoted on other sites. But quite frankly, though I am not at all current on MC carts, I like my Garrott too much to seriously consider anything else, here is one review - the version I have:
http://www.stereotimes.com/cart081402.shtml
http://www.decibelhifi.com.au/prod135.htm
The new version:
http://www.decibelhifi.com.au/prod474.htm
Quite frankly, the combination of dynamics and detail are just out of this world considering what they cost, when you take out the need for a stepup the effective cost of using them is tremendously low compared to low output MCs. The Garrott with the high output and particular immunity to surface noise and artifacts and spectacular tracking makes me doubt I would ever move away to an MC. My very limited recent comparisons show up Ortofon and Lyra cartridges costing more than double. I am blanking out on the Ortofon, but it looks like the Kontrapunkt series without being one. Noise was the first most obvious advantage to the Garrott, dynamics were better, and only the highest frequencies were on par or had a slight edge to the MCs. Since I would categorically reject anything over $1000 used/demo and only go beyond $500 for something special - like a newer version of the FGS.
From
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/ms/ms2_2.html (Merrill Scillia TT)
" As mentioned earlier, I had on hand the same Hadcock 228 Export arm outfitted with both a Garrott Bros. Optim FGS Cartridge and the Ortofon Kontrapunkt H. As I swapped arm tubes in favor of the much less expensive Garrott Brothers Optim FGS cartridge, it was easy to separate the contributions of the thrice-the-price Ortofon and MS2. The Ortofon is certainly the better cartridge. It excels at smoothness and musicality, making the Garrott Brothers sound rougher, grainier and less fluid. Still and for its asking price, the MS2 elevated the inexpensive Garrott Bros. cartridge to unanticipated heights. The combination had the same gravitas as the Ortofon and while it was grainier and a little rougher than before, it still sounded awfully good, exhibiting the same list of strengths, albeit to a slightly lesser degree. Only after a direct comparison was I made to (almost) feel as though I was suddenly slumming it with the cheaper Garrott. And when I dragged into the room my highly modified AR and installed the same Hadcock and Garrott Bros. cartridge to remove the MS2 from the equation... well, suddenly I wasn't feeling so good about the AR. Even with the Ortofon installed, the AR's bass suddenly sounded thicker, slightly congealed and opaque. The soundstage shrunk dramatically and everything on that stage became less illuminated as musical presence was greatly diminished."
I think a little arm damping goes a long way to tame the roughness of the
minimally damped Garrott, because there was not that sort of roughness on my setup compared to the other carts. It is an order of magnitude smoother than the OC9 (which is a very low standard) besides, I would not give up the quiet, dynamics, or detail for smoothness.
Re MC15 I would definitely not look to alter the MC15 because of the static problem. It is way too nice a cartridge to risk ruining. Even the extreme solution of using water takes just a minute - and it is after the play.
Re Rega CDs, the preference is to have the memory buffer feeding the SPDIF to get the best data, as corrected by the Apollo. Though it seems the output stage is rather good so a DAC might not be uch of a benefit. But the best playback I know of is from CDs ripped to computer with perfect copy software (exactcopy?) and copied onto USB memory sticks plugged into a dac or a DVD player feeding a dac.
I do not know anything about the 30NF adhesive, I can look it up, but considering it is now Magnepan's choice compound, I would simply use that regardless of what else I might learn about it.
Follow Ups:
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 16:39:13 09/16/10
(7)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 16, 2010 at 13:15:43
Ortofon?, Now you asked for it!, - this is going to be long!
There are a LOT of different models!, - so I am not surprised you are confused!.
They line up was reasonably stable from about 1995 to 2005.
It consisted,
Noryl bodied: -
MC10 super II, MC15 Super II,
Al bodied: -
MC10 Supreme, MC20 Supreme MC30 Supreme (same heavy aluminium body, same generators, just different styluses),
Rohmann (introduced around 1996).
Jubilee (Introduced in 1999).
This was for the UK, - in the USA and elsewhere the MC10, MC20, and MC30 Supreme models were not available and instead the, MC20 and MC30 Super II models were available.
Differences between MC20/30 supremes and supers were that the Supremes had heavier Al bodies (11.7g) and higher output (0.5mV), whereas the super IIs had lower output (0.2mV) and a lighter 9g Al body. Also the MC20 and MC30 Super IIs seem to have higher spec styluses than the MC20 and MC30 Supreme. WHY on earth some were available in certain countries and some elsewhere I am not sure.
Its confusing too as the budget MC10 super II and pricier MC10 Supreme are two different cartridges that share the same elliptical stylus, but one has a plastic body and the other a heavy. aluminium body.
As for stylus types: -
Plastic bodies carts: -
MC10 Super II had elliptical stylus
MC15 Super II had the basic Fine line stylus
Al bodies carts
MC25E had an elliptical stylus
MC25FL had the basic fine line stylus
MC10 Supreme had an elliptical stylus
MC20 Supreme had the basic fine line stylus
MC30 Supreme had a super fine line stylus
MC20 Super II had a FRG80 stylus
MC30 Super II had a Nude Replicant stylus
Kontrpunkts had super fine line (A), FRG80 (B and C).
Rohmann had an Ortho line sylus
Jubilee had a Shibata Stylus
The Kontrpunkts were introduced in around 2001, - then discontinued quite recently. The Supremes ran alongside the Punkts for quite a while, but the Kontrpunkts were slightly higher spec than the Supremes.
It seems the MC2000, MC3000, MC500 MC7500 were pre 1995 or so they are older, - they were the top models. The Rohmann effectively replaced them as the main top model. Looking a the output level of the MC2000II its not a viable option, - its like a Audionote IO, - 0.05mV output!. The MC3000 is 0.1mV output so pretty low too. MC 7500 is better at 0.2mV.
The Rohmann was introduced in 1996 and was named after Ortofon's former MD who past away around that time. It was based around the top previous MC7500 model,, but it was priced cheaper. Output was a reasonable sensible 0.25mV so more practical than the previous top models. Then in 1999 the Jubilee was introduced and was run alongside the Rohmann for many years. The Jubilee was the higher spec model though, better stylus/tracking and higher output at 0.35mV. It cost $1850, £1200 in the UK. It was also the blueprint for the Kontrpunkt models, - indeed the body looks the same as the Kontropuntks. Rohmann was about £1000 new in the UK, - I guess about $1400-1500 in the US.
Anyway the top Rohmann and Jubilee were available right up to about 2008 so they ran for many many years. The Windfeld replaced them as the top model. Now there is also a new top “A90” model as well.
In around 2005 the MC10, 20, 30 Supreme series was discontinued and the Rondos (Red. Blue, Bronze) were introduced, - effectively replacing them. Similar specs. The Kontrapunkts continued to run at the same time as the Rondos. The Rondos are still current.
At the lower MC end the Noryl bodied MC10 and MC15 super IIs were replaced by the Samba and Salsa in 2005 but these were double the price! Like I say I couldn’t see any spec differences! The Samba and Salsa have recently been discontinued and replaced with the Vivo red and blue models!
Recently the Cadenzas have replaced the Kontrapuntks!
So as you can see its very complicated, - they don’t seem to phase out all products and replace them at the same time, - some are kept and other ranges replaced! Very confusing indeed.
I have often seen the Rohmann and Jubilee for sale used here, - for around £300-400 quite oftehn which is a good deal. I will keep an eye out for one. Either would be a good model to try as they were the top spec ones. I suppose it could always be retipped by Expert stylus in the future.
I think a MC20 or MC30 supreme would be a good cartridge to try too, - sometimes they go very cheap. And the Chepaer MC25FL would be a good model to try too, - ran for many years and a lot were sold. All of these three and others have recently been available brand new at Speakerbits on Ebay for very good prices.
MC 25 FL
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220649416825
MC30 Supreme
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220644603943
MC20 Supreme
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220649008586
Kontrapunkt C
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250689258620
Rohmann
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220640297754
MC15 Super II
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220661500445
I think these are very good deals as like I say they are new, recently manufactured by Ortofon from spare parts they had..
Here is where I found it out, - when I was looking up on google about the MC15 Super II I recently bought. The OP in this thread rang up Ortofon and they confirmed they have been re manufacturing these older MCs from unused spare parts.
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=228706
These newly manufactured “old” MC carts are much cheaper than the current range, - I mean the MC30 Supreme is selling at speakerbits for £250 or so but a new Rondo Bronze is £650. And I THINK its virtually the same cartridge. If I was to get one my eye would be on a MC25FL, either MC20 or MC30 Supreme, and the Rohmann. Any of them are a great deal. The cheaper MC15 super II is excellent sounding too like I say (and has the same stylus as the MC25FL and MC20 Supreme) but the plastic body/static issue would prefer me buying one of the higher spec aluminium body models in the future, - starting with the MC25FL as being the cheapest one. The MC25FL and MC20/30 Supreme have higher output too at 0.5mV.
I would avoid the ones with Elliptcal syluses personally, - the MC10 Super II and MC25E. Only going for fine line or better.
If you look at speakerbits feedback you can see how many they’ve sold recently
http://feedback.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=speakerbits&&iid=220649008586&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller
I asked them for a heads up on when the next ones will be up for auction and they said not this Monday but the Monday after.
So yeah loads of Ortofon models, - same goes for the Ortofon SPU models, - the old and the current ones. I have no idea about them but they are supposed to be very good as well.
Which MC20 did you have as there are at LEAST 4 different versions?! Was it an aluminium body type like either of these three
MC20 Super II http://drspark.dreamwiz.com/c_spark/d11/ortofon-mc20-super2.jpg
MC20 Super II black model http://i7.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/30/a0/ef9b_35.JPG
MC20 Supreme http://www.asm-audio.de/WebRoot/Store3/Shops/61684291/4BF3/651E/35DF/4AC9/A5F9/C0A8/29BB/78A9/Ort_MC_MC20_supreme_89mm_300_m.jpg
Or a plastic blue body type MC20 like this?
http://www.vinylengine.com/images/cartridgedb/ortofon_mc20.jpg
This one is very old now! Must be pre 1990.
So anyway I do not know about all the models myself no doubt but I have a reasonbly good idea having kept a reasonable interested in Ortofon carts over the years, so I hope this gives you a reasonable outline. Let me know if you need any more info. . Looking at your situation I think a newly manufactured model like the MC25FL or MC20/30 Supreme from Speakerbits would be a great choice as a very good MC to have for cheap. Decent output 0.5mV (so you could run into the Melos straight) and very cheap price for the quality you are getting. I wonder if these carts are selling elsewhere at all or only at Speakerbits?
In the meantime, - if you can put up with the static issue, I’ll send you the MC15 Super II to try with the other carts. For the money it’s a real peach. Slightly different from the ones I just mentioned above as it much have a different generator as the output is slightly lower, and noryl body of course. Though like I say the Fine line stylus is the same as the one on the MC25FL and MC20 Supreme. The MC30 Supreme has a slightly finer fine line stylus and a slightly more extended top end (though we are talking from extension from 30Khz to 40Khz here)!. The Jubilee extends to 60Khz with that Shibata stylus has a very good tracking figure. Kontrpunkts and others with the Fritz gyper styluses are somewhere in between these figures.
Anyway the Garrot does look very nice from the links you sent me, - thanks for that. So did you buy this FGS version new?! (quite pricey) or was it lightly used?
I can see how a top spec MM would have several advantages over MC, - better tracking, very low surface noise etc and better dynamics too. The crunch would be the top end I guess, - the MCs most probably having an advantage in linearity and extension up there. So there is a balance of extension, dynamics, traking, surface noise and other factors going on here.
See how you get on with three MCs which are significantly cheaper than the Garrot. I will be very interested to hear which of these 3 MC you prefer and if still prefer the Garrot over them. I guess the Garrot will be more dynamic, have better tracking etc so it will be interesting to see if the different strengths of the MCs appeal to you or not. I would say for sure these MCs do sound more dynamic on the Technics DD turntable than on the belt drive LP12 (and I guess the belt drives you’ve had too I guess). So the Technics will help the MCs on the dynamics front I am sure. I know the Garrot is very detailed but I am sure you will find the Denon DL304 (in particular) highly detailed too and possibly more so, - and likely more extended and transparent but not as dynamic and a bit more prone to surface noise. So I’ll be interested see how you get on.
Thanks a lot for the wet record tip, - sounds good!, will try it - and thanks for the info on the drain. So when you say try adhesive tape, - do you mean with the drain wire or is this something separate?!!
I have yet to try the damping foil!, - will do at the weekend, - so how many foil layers do you use? One, or more? And what sort of tape do you use to hold it on? I have not got the silver cables yet, - will install them later when they arrive.
All the best,
Colin
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 20:40:03 09/16/10
(6)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 16, 2010 at 16:39:13
I got the garrott at 50% off or better as a Demo from either the Needle Doctor or another online retailer - maybe Audio Advisor. I got the full warranty and the associate said they didn't get to play it much because nobody knew about it.
I had (long term loan) the original MC20 Super and it was tried on the Rega which I had in ca 1989-90.
The one I heard recently I don't remember its name but it looked like a Kontrapunkt series, but I know it wasn't a Kontrapunkt. The owner kept referring to it as "the Ortofon" or "the Ortofon MC". It was metalic and did not have "Kontrapunkt" printed on its broadside. The table was not in good lighting and I could not even tell if it was a gold tone or a silver tone to the metal and the Ortofon name was on a color I could not distinguish. It was on a VPI Scout. It was a low output cartridge.
Re drain wire, I was referring to attachment with a small bit of adhesive tape - with a dog ear to cover the adhesive on one corner so it can be more easily removed.
Thanks for the Ortofon Roundup. My mind is stuck in the early 90s and the mid 2000s as far as cartridges go, since those were the times I was in the market for something serious and new.
I heard a Koetsu Black on a VPI Aries but it was hooked up to a hodge podge of equipment in the used room at the dealer's so though it had a musical and communicative gestalt, it was not terribly good at anything so far as what that system could portray. So members of my jury are not prepared to go for a vote.
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 06:37:44 09/18/10
(4)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 16, 2010 at 20:40:03
Hi Satie,
I’ve got the new Technics headshell, - will try with the Denon 304 and compare to the other carts on the Technics on Sunday for sure. Really look forward to it and I will try the damping on the arm too, - how many sheets of Al foil should I use?
Will then pack the stuff up and ship to you sometime next week.
The other news was a found a very generous guy on this forum (John Plummer) who has some 3.3Rs and was not using the passive external crossover as he got a Marchard and went active with them. He was willing to sell the crossover boxes to me for very cheap which is great, - they are already on their way to me. So they will be good for comparisons and setting up my active setup and for convenient, eay single amp use. He only charged me $90 for them inclusive with shipping!, - much better than the $450 it would have cost me from Magnepan! I don’t think you could even build them with similar quality parts (even though I know they are cheap parts) for $90 and those inductors are unusual values anyway, - it would have been very hard to get accurate values for them.
I am so glad you steered me towards proper record cleaning and away from using the Clearaudio elixir stylus cleaner, - that stuff is sin, - I had given up using my Turntable as it was so annoying, - having to use that solution on the stylus every five minutes!. The high frequencies went after 5 minutes if you didn’t re use it, and using the stiff brush on its own after 5 min did not make any difference – you had to use more solution to get the high frequencies back.
Your method of cleaning and using water for a dirty stylus with brush are far better, - so much longer lasting! I can now enjoy records again! I had been using the Elixir for about 2 years +! I can now start buying records again!
Any ideas about which Ortofon you heard recently?
I contacted a guy who had the MC15 II and upgraded to the MC25FL, - he said both are very good but the MC25FL is definitely a bit better and well worth the extra, - so that’s the one I will try to go for if I can get one from Speakerbits if the Ebay price is OK. Would dearly love to get a Supreme instead but will probably not have enough cash at the time! The MC25FL should be nearly half the price of a Supreme and a real bargain.
All the best,
Colin
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 07:35:58 09/19/10
(3)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 18, 2010 at 06:37:44
Re damping with wire in shielded tape.
1. one layer of foil is used on top of the double sided tape. The cld effect (damping) comes from having 4 - 6 layers (depending on whether you seal with a non-conductive top layer).
2. the tape is white - not transparent, the transparent double sided tape should not be used since it has no backing material and is composed entirely of acrylic adhesive.
3. The tape is integrated with the wires!! and the adhesive does not work as well a second time, so wait for your wires to come in, and then prepare the integrated wire/damping tape.
4. there is no need to spiral wind the tape around the arm, it was overkill and looks a mess. Just measure the arm and score the tape to allow application along the line of the tonearm.
I am sorry you got into a product that didn't complement your usage habits, good riddance to that. I hope the simple method I gave you provides you with sufficiently good results and you get to keep your high frequency content.
Congrats on the acquisition of the external Crossover. Very nice of him to give it to you.
I was going over pics from the Ortofon site and the super/supreme pics you showed me on the other computer so will delay a reply to a time I am using that one. But so far I have not seen anything that is exactly right. It occurred to me that they may have sold OEM Monster sigma cartridges without the markings on a model switchover. If they did that then it would have come out like a kontrapunkt without any color or marking.
I will look at those carts on the UK ebay - which I assume they will use again. BTW, I do purchase stuff from LPgear great online store.
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 11:46:40 09/19/10
(2)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 19, 2010 at 07:35:58
Hi Satie,
I'll let you know when the Speakerbits Ortofons are back on Ebay, - they will probably be visible on Ebay USA as well.
Thanks for the info on the arm damping/rewire, but I appear to be a bit lost again. When you say
"1. one layer of foil is used on top of the double sided tape. The cld effect (damping) comes from having 4 - 6 layers (depending on whether you seal with a non-conductive top layer).
2. the tape is white - not transparent, the transparent double sided tape should not be used since it has no backing material and is composed entirely of acrylic adhesive."
So do you mean first put some white double sided tape on the arm? and then put one layer of foil on top. But if thats so I am lost when you say the bit about 4-6 layers? How do you put the tape on, - in long strips down the arm tube or wrap around it circularly?!
All the best,
Colin
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 01:22:09 09/20/10
(1)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 19, 2010 at 11:46:40
Not that easy
First cut a sheet of Al foil 2" longer than your intended cable length, stretch it out on a flat surface, vertical or horizontal. If you want an extra drain wire, measure out a length about 3" longer than the aluminum foil, and tape one end to the surface on which the Al foil is affixed about 1" above the end of the foil, and run the drain wire to the end of the aluminum foil and tape it in place with a small tab of tape.
Then unspool the necessary length of double sided tape leaving the waxy paper on.
Align the tape with the stretched Al foil 1" from the top of the foil - rouhgly 2/3 of the tape on one side of the drain wire and 1/3 on the other, and and glue them together, smooth the tape out.
Prepare two twisted pairs of fine insulated wire 30 gauge or smaller to use as the tonearm wire. Solder or crimp on the cartridge tags at one end. You will need 30% more wire than the required final length of the finished cable. Make 6-8 twists per inch
Peel the waxy paper off the double sided tape. Do not discard it yet.
Stretch one twisted pair over the tape holding one end 1-2" beyond the top edge of the tape, and align the twisted pair about 1/8" from the tape's edge. The cartridge tags should clear the edge of the tape by 1.5-2". Glue them together and go on to the next twisted pair, which will be affixed 1/4" further into the tape. These are placed on the Plside of the tape opposite the drain wire.
Place the waxy paper back on the sticky side of the tape to cover the wires too. With an Al foil cutting knife or sharp scissors carefully cut the excess Al foil from the sides of the tape. This is easier if the tape is still mounted and with angled scissors.
Unmount the tape assembly.
On the tonearm - Measure the distance from the base of the cartridge pins to the bend of the arm closest to the cartridge, and the distance to the second bend.
On the cable - Measure the distance from the ends of the cartridge clips to the measure of the bend, add 1/2" and cut into the tape up to the drain wire. measure up to the second bend and make a similar cut. These are preliminary and may need to be adjusted when the tape is glued onto the tonearm.
On the end of the cable intended to attach to the RCA plugs:
Rearrange the twisted pairs to run 1/4" from the edge of the tape from either side for the last 6-8 inches of the tape. Cut in the middle along the tape to 6 inches into it to split it into two twisted pairs mounted onto the two strip of tape.. Take hold of the drain wire and pull it out of the tape so that its last length of 8+ inches is free of it. Fold the separated tape halves over their respective twisted pairs.
At this point, attach the RCA plugs to the ends of the wires in the twisted pairs. You will need to arrange some strain relief at the RCA entry.
Adjusting the tape and gluing it onto the tonearm.
At the cartridge end
The excess aluminum foil and the drain wire should be trimmed and folded back onto the wire side of the tape. The cartridge lead portion should reach to the end of the heasdshell collar and the aluminum foil should allow a non sticky strip at the end of the tape to allow turning the collar and moving it a little backwards.
Now we start gluing from the first segment -between the headshell collar and the first bend, peel back the wax paper to the first cut and position the tape roughly symmetrically, and glue the cable down. Smooth the tape out and test the fit of the next segment between the two cuts - adjust the cuts and the position of the wires . Peel back the wax paper and glue the segment onto the arm between the two bends.
Test the fit of the tape to the small tonearm segment from the bend to the bearings. Make a cut up to the drain wire at a location equivalent to 1/2" in front of the bearing. Peel the tape to the cut and glue the tape onto the tonearm wand and bearing housing stub.
Lay out the cable so that it can be folded conveniently. Remove a 2-3 inch segment at a time from the tonearm onwards, align the edges and fold the tape so the glue sides attach sealing the wires inside. Continue to the split of the RCA jacks and their leads.
At this point the cable is complete and we attach it to the turntable body.
Arrange a segment of the cable into an upside U shape from the bearings to the a spot on the back of the turntable body about 3-4 inches down from the tonearm. It should be just tall enough that the lid does not squash it significantly. The cable should have the minimal twist possible. Using a strong adhesive tape fix the cable to the back side of the turntable at the chosen spot.
Select a spot on the cable about 1" up from the tonearm and make a small cut at the spine of the cable. Manipulate the wires inside the tape close together and cut some more of the tape to increase the cut's length. If necessary, make a loop of sewing thread and tie it in the cut to keep the wires more tightly together.
Now turn the antiskate to 0, put on a record, raise the arm cue and let the arm down onto the record (power should be off) and watch for the arm to fall down without any sideways movement. If there is movement towards the center, deepen the cut slightly and tighten the wires together a bit more. Make sure that the aluminum backing remains continuous.
Now attach the RCA plugs put on a record, set up the tonearm in the holder and turn on the turntable. Play the record and note how the arm is moving, whether you are getting skating or back skipping. If you do, then the notch in the cable is probably still too stiff and you may want to tighten the wires together a bit more, and increase the extent of the cut. .
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 07:25:47 09/20/10
(0)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 20, 2010 at 01:22:09
Thanks a lot Satie,
Wow thats a long guide. Gonna have to study this hard before my arm cable comes.
Started on my second 3.3R delam repair and am half way through.
All the best,
Colin
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 07:25:47 09/20/10
(0)
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 01:22:09 09/20/10
(1)
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 11:46:40 09/19/10
(2)
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 07:35:58 09/19/10
(3)
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 21:07:46 09/16/10
(0)
- In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 16, 2010 at 20:40:03
Hi Satie,
Just a quickie,
Hoep the ortofon roundup helped you out/gave you some ideas of the range over the past 15 years.
Maybe the cart you heard was a Cadenza?, - the recent sucessors to the Kontrapunkts, - did it look like any of these?
http://www.ortofon.com/products/cartridges/moving-coil/cadenza
The only other two Ortofons that have the Kontrapunkt type body are the Jubilee
http://www.ortofon.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=68&Itemid=100
and the more recent top of the range Windfeld.
http://www.ortofon.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69&Itemid=101
Did the Ortofon you heard recently sound nice?
Like I say for bang for the buck a MC25FL or MC20/30 Supreme from Speakerbits can't be beat I reckon, - I for one will be keeping an eye out when the next lot are listed week after next./
Thanks for the drain wire/tape info, - Doh!
Wanted to just PM you about something too, - hope that's OK.
Those online USA cartridge retailer can be very cheap, - I got the OC9 very cheap, - for like £150 or something, - from LPgear I think it was.
Cheers,
Colin
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 06:37:44 09/18/10
(4)
- RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 20:40:03 09/16/10
(6)
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