• RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 07:35:58 09/19/10 (3)
  In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 18, 2010 at 06:37:44

  Re damping with wire in shielded tape.
  
  1. one layer of foil is used on top of the double sided tape. The cld effect (damping) comes from having 4 - 6 layers (depending on whether you seal with a non-conductive top layer).
  2. the tape is white - not transparent, the transparent double sided tape should not be used since it has no backing material and is composed entirely of acrylic adhesive.
  3. The tape is integrated with the wires!! and the adhesive does not work as well a second time, so wait for your wires to come in, and then prepare the integrated wire/damping tape.
  4. there is no need to spiral wind the tape around the arm, it was overkill and looks a mess. Just measure the arm and score the tape to allow application along the line of the tonearm.
  
  I am sorry you got into a product that didn't complement your usage habits, good riddance to that. I hope the simple method I gave you provides you with sufficiently good results and you get to keep your high frequency content.
  
  Congrats on the acquisition of the external Crossover. Very nice of him to give it to you.
  
  I was going over pics from the Ortofon site and the super/supreme pics you showed me on the other computer so will delay a reply to a time I am using that one. But so far I have not seen anything that is exactly right. It occurred to me that they may have sold OEM Monster sigma cartridges without the markings on a model switchover. If they did that then it would have come out like a kontrapunkt without any color or marking.
  
  I will look at those carts on the UK ebay - which I assume they will use again. BTW, I do purchase stuff from LPgear great online store.
  

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  • RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 11:46:40 09/19/10 (2)
    In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 19, 2010 at 07:35:58

    Hi Satie,
    I'll let you know when the Speakerbits Ortofons are back on Ebay, - they will probably be visible on Ebay USA as well.
    Thanks for the info on the arm damping/rewire, but I appear to be a bit lost again. When you say
    "1. one layer of foil is used on top of the double sided tape. The cld effect (damping) comes from having 4 - 6 layers (depending on whether you seal with a non-conductive top layer).
    2. the tape is white - not transparent, the transparent double sided tape should not be used since it has no backing material and is composed entirely of acrylic adhesive."
    
    So do you mean first put some white double sided tape on the arm? and then put one layer of foil on top. But if thats so I am lost when you say the bit about 4-6 layers? How do you put the tape on, - in long strips down the arm tube or wrap around it circularly?!
    
    All the best,
    Colin
    
    

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    • RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Satie 01:22:09 09/20/10 (1)
      In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Davy on September 19, 2010 at 11:46:40

      Not that easy
      
      First cut a sheet of Al foil 2" longer than your intended cable length, stretch it out on a flat surface, vertical or horizontal. If you want an extra drain wire, measure out a length about 3" longer than the aluminum foil, and tape one end to the surface on which the Al foil is affixed about 1" above the end of the foil, and run the drain wire to the end of the aluminum foil and tape it in place with a small tab of tape.
      Then unspool the necessary length of double sided tape leaving the waxy paper on.
      Align the tape with the stretched Al foil 1" from the top of the foil - rouhgly 2/3 of the tape on one side of the drain wire and 1/3 on the other, and and glue them together, smooth the tape out.
      
      Prepare two twisted pairs of fine insulated wire 30 gauge or smaller to use as the tonearm wire. Solder or crimp on the cartridge tags at one end. You will need 30% more wire than the required final length of the finished cable. Make 6-8 twists per inch
      
      Peel the waxy paper off the double sided tape. Do not discard it yet.
      
      Stretch one twisted pair over the tape holding one end 1-2" beyond the top edge of the tape, and align the twisted pair about 1/8" from the tape's edge. The cartridge tags should clear the edge of the tape by 1.5-2". Glue them together and go on to the next twisted pair, which will be affixed 1/4" further into the tape. These are placed on the Plside of the tape opposite the drain wire.
      
      Place the waxy paper back on the sticky side of the tape to cover the wires too. With an Al foil cutting knife or sharp scissors carefully cut the excess Al foil from the sides of the tape. This is easier if the tape is still mounted and with angled scissors.
      
      Unmount the tape assembly.
      
      On the tonearm - Measure the distance from the base of the cartridge pins to the bend of the arm closest to the cartridge, and the distance to the second bend.
      
      On the cable - Measure the distance from the ends of the cartridge clips to the measure of the bend, add 1/2" and cut into the tape up to the drain wire. measure up to the second bend and make a similar cut. These are preliminary and may need to be adjusted when the tape is glued onto the tonearm.
      
      On the end of the cable intended to attach to the RCA plugs:
      Rearrange the twisted pairs to run 1/4" from the edge of the tape from either side for the last 6-8 inches of the tape. Cut in the middle along the tape to 6 inches into it to split it into two twisted pairs mounted onto the two strip of tape.. Take hold of the drain wire and pull it out of the tape so that its last length of 8+ inches is free of it. Fold the separated tape halves over their respective twisted pairs.
      
      At this point, attach the RCA plugs to the ends of the wires in the twisted pairs. You will need to arrange some strain relief at the RCA entry.
      
      Adjusting the tape and gluing it onto the tonearm.
      
      At the cartridge end
      The excess aluminum foil and the drain wire should be trimmed and folded back onto the wire side of the tape. The cartridge lead portion should reach to the end of the heasdshell collar and the aluminum foil should allow a non sticky strip at the end of the tape to allow turning the collar and moving it a little backwards.
      
      Now we start gluing from the first segment -between the headshell collar and the first bend, peel back the wax paper to the first cut and position the tape roughly symmetrically, and glue the cable down. Smooth the tape out and test the fit of the next segment between the two cuts - adjust the cuts and the position of the wires . Peel back the wax paper and glue the segment onto the arm between the two bends.
      
      Test the fit of the tape to the small tonearm segment from the bend to the bearings. Make a cut up to the drain wire at a location equivalent to 1/2" in front of the bearing. Peel the tape to the cut and glue the tape onto the tonearm wand and bearing housing stub.
      
      Lay out the cable so that it can be folded conveniently. Remove a 2-3 inch segment at a time from the tonearm onwards, align the edges and fold the tape so the glue sides attach sealing the wires inside. Continue to the split of the RCA jacks and their leads.
      
      At this point the cable is complete and we attach it to the turntable body.
      
      Arrange a segment of the cable into an upside U shape from the bearings to the a spot on the back of the turntable body about 3-4 inches down from the tonearm. It should be just tall enough that the lid does not squash it significantly. The cable should have the minimal twist possible. Using a strong adhesive tape fix the cable to the back side of the turntable at the chosen spot.
      
      Select a spot on the cable about 1" up from the tonearm and make a small cut at the spine of the cable. Manipulate the wires inside the tape close together and cut some more of the tape to increase the cut's length. If necessary, make a loop of sewing thread and tie it in the cut to keep the wires more tightly together.
      
      Now turn the antiskate to 0, put on a record, raise the arm cue and let the arm down onto the record (power should be off) and watch for the arm to fall down without any sideways movement. If there is movement towards the center, deepen the cut slightly and tighten the wires together a bit more. Make sure that the aluminum backing remains continuous.
      
      Now attach the RCA plugs put on a record, set up the tonearm in the holder and turn on the turntable. Play the record and note how the arm is moving, whether you are getting skating or back skipping. If you do, then the notch in the cable is probably still too stiff and you may want to tighten the wires together a bit more, and increase the extent of the cut. .
      

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      • RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more - Davy 07:25:47 09/20/10 (0)
        In Reply to: RE: Tweeter difference problem with 3.3Rs and more posted by Satie on September 20, 2010 at 01:22:09

        Thanks a lot Satie,
        Wow thats a long guide. Gonna have to study this hard before my arm cable comes.
        Started on my second 3.3R delam repair and am half way through.
        All the best,
        Colin
        

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