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Looking at some Chinese LPS's. I rarely see any reviewed in the context of computer DACs or headphone amps. I'm ready to DIY one, but I think a chinese import is far more practical. Only IFI seems to make suitable domestic LPS's, but at more than twice the price.
Follow Ups:
I have used several of the LHY LPSs, and they are all excellent for the money. They are designed and manufactured by the same Team that produces Denafrips and Jays Audio. Scroll down the main page to see their selection.
Just what I was looking for, actually.
I have a ZeroZone LPS from AliExpress, feeding a small class D amp driving my horns. For around 100$, it's been fantastic, allowing the amp to sound MUCH better. It's been ON 24/7 for the last 4 years and hasn't broken a sweat. Great, great stuff, built mike the proverbial tank!
Having looked at a fair amount of ebay listings myself, it seems many of the Chinese sellers offer a variety of designs (of course, sans schematics), which would seem to make it difficult to depend on a review unless you also bought from that particular seller.Then there's the concern (at least for me) over counterfeit parts. For example, a guy posted on the Asylum that he bought new, stuffed boards for one of his Dynaco amps from a Chinese ebay seller. They came with Wima coupling caps and some generic pF caps in feedback locations. He said it sounded bad until he replaced all the caps. Wima caps are inexpensive, but I guess if they can save a few pennies by counterfeiting them, they'll do it.
Maybe some Chinese factories actually use Texas Instruments voltage regulators and genuine Schottky diodes in their builds, but I have serious doubts about that.
I agree that DIY is a pain in the ass, (especially the enclosure, at least for me), but given my above concerns, a DIY 12V supply for my Geshelli DAC is on my 'to do' list. I'll buy the Schottky diodes from Mouser, and the Belleson Regulator (link) direct from Belleson, as their regulator made great improvement to my Graham Slee phono stage over its 7818 regulator.
Below is a link to some LPS reviews, at least one of which uses the Belleson regulator. Be prepared for sticker shock on these though, which is the other reason which makes DIY a lot more intriguing to me.
Good luck.
Edits: 03/15/24
what do you think the best transformer output is?
I have a center-tapped 20 volt transformer, which I think is equivalent to a 10 volt full-wave rectified power supply. Is that cutting it too close, do you think? So, that's like only 14 volts DC, yeah, pretty close, but maybe doable, no?
I like the sealed power tranformers with a pig tail so I don't have to worry about electrocution issues, but this is a bare transformer, unforturnately.
There's no way to speculate on whether your transformer would suffice without knowing the application it would be used for, including the specifications of the transformer to be sure it will supply adequate current. And, as I replied to one of your similar posts from twelve years ago, Paul McGowan of PS Audio believes that bigger is better, with regard to current (link below)
I'd suggest that you find a schematic or two, then start researching low voltage drop regulators if you feel your transformer voltage is going to be close for your application.
Good luck.
I had an industrial power supply that I recently sold which was rated at five amps. It didn't do anything special for me. Just, maybe, amps is not everything and big electrolytics are more important. I don't know, but it's easy enough to put stuff together, though doing the case work has always been challenging as well. Thanks for your input.
No, I would agree that an oversized transformer isn't 'the answer', but if "big electroylytics" are, then it would be simple enough. Buy one of the many linear supplies offered on ebay, and just add a large amount of capacitance to it.Below is a link to my take on the Belleson voltage regulator. As noted, I was running the Slee phono stage with two large motorcycle batteries in series, as a 24 VDC supply. Many think of batteries as the holy grail of DC, but when I replaced the Slee's internal 7818 (+18v) regulator with the Belleson regulator being fed by the battereies I got blacker backgrounds, more detail, and more musical involvement.
Edit: I'm not suggesting that a quiet regulator is the sole answer either. As noted, I'd locate a known good schematic, then build the power supply with quality parts.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Edits: 03/17/24
At those prices listed in the Audio Bacon review, I'd be more than tempted to do DIY as well. In the meantime, a $70 iFi seems to do just fine with my Geshelli J2/S. Also perfectly happy with a Swagman at 2X the cost of the iFi. That's just me though, others may be far more demanding. The prices listed in the review seem a bit beyond outrageous, but as always, YMMV.
...makes little sense with a $249 DAC, at least for me. I mostly included the Audio Bacon link because the original poster was looking for reviews, albeit of the Chinese supplies, apparently the ones offered on ebay. Sometimes reading reviews, even if it exceeds my price range, can give me ideas to go on.
"a $70 iFi seems to do just fine with my Geshelli J2/S" My question to you is whether the iFi supply was an improvement over the Geshelli switch mode supply included with it.
Another Asylum Inmate I talk to introduced me to the Geshelli J2 DAC. He bought one of the Chinese ebay 12 VDC supplies (sorry I don't remember the seller) and also an upgraded DC umbilical cable. His reported results (over the supplied SMPS), along with my concerns regarding internal parts, as stated in my other post, didn't cause me to want to rush off to buy one.
Truth be told, I bought the iFi PS before the J2 arrived. So I never did an actual comparison. I just took the advice of a friend who liked the iFi PS's. Plus Sherri at Geshelli recommended them (iFi) along with few others. None of her recommendations were above $150 as I remember. Then a few months back, I had my original J2 upgraded.(AKM 4499/Sparkos opamps)
So basically a pricy PS was never in my upgrade path.
I have many of them in my studio, either iPowerX or iPower Elite depending on current draw, on various keyboards, synths, effects and even my converters. Nice improvement over stock wall warts for a very reasonable price. For various reasons, it's much easier to hear changes in audio quality in the studio than in my consumer listening rooms.Those that believe audiophile myth #72, all SMPS sound bad, need not apply. For you DIY guys out there, even a bad SMPS wall wart can be improved greatly as follows:
Open up your mind, in pours the trash. - Meat Puppets, 1987
Edits: 03/16/24
These also offer great value for those that insist on linear supplies (link).
Most audiophile linear supplies sold in the US are the exact same, sourced from China and rebranded PS with a grossly elevated price. I know one popular and reputable equipment maker/seller that was selling their branded "audiophile supply" (I compared it directly to one I purchased at aliexpress) for $165. The one I got from ali was $35/free shipping. BTW, they kept blowing up since they were underrated for the application. I was able to source the transformers that blew from ali for $15 and was able to salvage them for more suitable applications).
All these supplies have you specify the voltage before you check out. If you take off the top, all have the familiar, small, blue pot that can be adjusted to any voltage within the unit's operating range.
LOL; every audiophile supply must have "overpressure protection"!
Open up your mind, in pours the trash. - Meat Puppets, 1987
I use a buffered passive line stage (The Truth) and Geno increased the output of my J2 to 4V while he was building it for me. I had found that source components with <2 VAC seem to have compressed dynamics, unless an active preamp is used.
Yes sir. They answer the phone and are extremely helpful. When you do have to leave a message, they'll call you back in a timely manner. Class operation.
i didn't know they were offering things like the Sparkos opamps, so thank you for that!
I didn't think the original J2 (AKM 4493) could be upgraded, but I had to ask. To my surprise, Sherri said sure, they could take my unit and do the full "S" upgrade.(AKM 4499/Sparkos) It wasn't free by any stretch, but it was worth it. Otherwise that original J2 would have just been retired to the audio closet.
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