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24.19.147.14
One channel of a pair of Sennheiser Momentum 2 headphones mysteriously went kaput. It's an odd thing that when checking for continuity and measuring resistance for both channels, a multimeter test indicates both channels pass continuity and measure the same resistance. If one driver was blown, or a bad cable or plug/jack was at fault, you would think a multimeter test would indicate there was an obvious problem.
I tested the headphones with two different cables, and three different headphone amplifiers. I disassembled the problematic cup and the wiring to the driver is okay there too, which was not a surprise since the multimeter indicates everything is fine. Since the faulty channel is the right cup, which is connected via wiring from the left cup through the headband to the right cup, you would think the problem could be there, but multimeter tests tend to be correct, so it's a baffling issue to solve. Perhaps someone can help troubleshoot this repair issue. TIA
Follow Ups:
When you WEAR the headphones while testing resistance at the plug end, do you hear a little click or pop? The malfunctioning side apparently won't make any noise.
Too much is never enough
Cable can test fine with the low current DC of an ohm meter and not work with music. Also have you moved/giggled/tugged the cable around while testing continuity? Intermittents are the toughest thing to track. Run a new wire from the working cup to the non working cup to confirm if it is the crossover cable section in the headband or not. You'd hate to replace the coiled cable only to find the problem was in the headband. Good luck.
ET
"If at first you don't succeed, keep on sucking till you do suck seed" - Curly Howard 1936
maybe a mechanical issue? ie if the cone can't move because it's being blocked by some debris in the gap for example...You'd presumably still measure the same thing with an ohm meter but may not get any cone movement by putting current through the voice coil.
The headphone cups are perfectly sealed, so it's doubtful that a mechanical issue is the problem. What I need to do next is configure a cable that allows me to hook the cable directly to the right driver to hear if it actually produces the signal.
The coil may have come apart from the surrounding parts as well as a bit of something coming unglued and blocking the function of the driver.
I find giving stuff a good wack helps if all else has failed..
If it is something blocking or come unglued, a wack might free it up.
Last resort stuff.
I had a pair of Koss (going back to the 70's here) where the coil hung up on something. Tested OK but didn't work. I don't remember how but apparently I did get them working again somehow???
Being sealed would keep out foreign debris but wouldn't prevent the potential for internal failures, by whatever mechanisms, from causing some mechanical interference.
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