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The easy way

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In Reply to: RE: Burson V5i Opamp Upgrade Report Update posted by Crazy Dave on June 30, 2018 at 17:52:43

If the op-amp you're de-soldering from the board is cheap, don't bother trying to salvage it. The NE5532 Duster removed, for example, sells for $1.01 each at Mouser. Hardly worth saving, even if you could. My experience has been that even if it isn't cheap, I've always managed to mangle it in the removal process anyway, when I tried to remove it intact.

I take a small pair of snips and cut the old op-amp out, as close to the body as I can. That leaves 8 "legs" soldered to the board.

Grab the legs with a needle-nose pliers, one at a time. Heat one leg while drawing it out with the pliers.

Once all eight have been removed, use a solder sucker or round wooden toothpick to open up the holes.

Install an 8 position, 2 row DIP socket, like the one linked below, in the circuit board. Solder it in, and then you can "op-amp roll" a whole lot easier.

"Suddenly, I'm not half the man I used to be. 'Cause now I'm an amputee" J. Lennon

8 position DIP socket (Open in New Window)

Follow Ups:

RE: The easy way - jedrider 09:31:31 07/01/18 (1)
Yes, BUT

I actually cut each lead first. There are solering tips that try to heat all legs at the same time, but doing one at a time works for the amateur well enough I would think. Preserve a 5532? Yes, what for?

Anyway, in my case the German engineering tolerances are such that even if you can do one lead at a time, the legs are pushed in under mechanical pressure. If you heat the contact AND try to remove the pins, you will most likely also draw out the trace with the lead.

I think North American tolerances are more forgiving.
- RE: "Yes, BUT I actually cut each lead first" - 1973shovel 10:03:44 07/02/18 (0)
  Which is exactly what I suggested! It works great, doesn't it?
  
  "Suddenly, I'm not half the man I used to be. 'Cause now I'm an amputee" J. Lennon
RE: The easy way - Crazy Dave 08:19:39 07/01/18 (0)
Thanks. Another good way to skin a cat!

Dave

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