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In Reply to: RE: 12V Trigger Line Output Converter to Amp posted by Duster on May 25, 2018 at 20:39:50
Thanks for the reply Duster. I just tried that and it is not working...to simplify things, I connected the power brick DC 12V +/- directly to the 3.5mm plug and to the trigger input on the outside amplifier - when I plug the brick into the power, the amp comes on - so I know that the trigger on the Amp works.
I had previously tried connecting all 3 negative (DC brick, LOC2SL, 3.5mm plug) together and that did not work. And I tried with and without using the Black wire(without would be your initial suggestion)...So, now I'm just testing with a volt meter on the LOC2SL to see if I can get the 12V trigger wires to work when the music is turned on/off. I connected the DC + to the Yellow of the LOC2SL and then when I test between that and the DC-, I get approx. 12V. So, I know 12V is getting to the LOC2SL. Then, when I test between the Blue 12V+ ouput from the LOC2SL and the DC-, I only get 1 to 1.4 V when the inside Amp and music are playing or when the inside Amp is off and music is not playing - makes no difference? Seems like trigger is not occurring. I also tested the volts between the LOC2SL black ground and the Blue (while the yellow is still attached to the 12V+ DC source) and I get 18V. Again, it does not make a difference if the Amp/Music are on or off?
Any other reasons why this would not work - besides a bad trigger circuit in the LOC2SL?
The only other issue that I can think of...is that the source speaker wires for the LOC2SL are actually coming from a volume controlled speaker switchbox. So, my inside Amp goes into the switchbox using speaker level inputs. The box has a pair of speakers connected to 1 of the outputs and the LOC2SL to the other output. Could the switchbox be interfering with the LOC2SL's ability to know it just got an audio signal and so it does not know to turn on the trigger blue wire? If I turn the outside amp on manually, it all works so I know the signal is going from the box to the LOC2SL, its just the 'trigger' functionality that I can't get working...
Thanks again!
Follow Ups:
If all else fails, you can use a remote control AC outlet to plug the 12V wall wart into, then connect the 12V wall wart to the 12V trigger input.
The remote control is RF, so it can send the signal through walls.
Here's a link to the product:
That actually looks like a cool product for the price, but I'm trying to come up with a solution where I just use my iphone to control the audio and don't have to use remotes or the on/off switch on the amp.
The Amp also has an "auto sense" feature on the line level RCA inputs and so it can sense when music is playing and switch to Standby mode when the source music is turned off. I tried this using my iphone as the source, and it works. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get it to work using the LOC as the source. I do have the gain on the LOC turned all of the way up, and I'm going to experiment with adjusting that. Does anyone know how the "auto sense" feature works on audio inputs? Is it looking for a voltage drop, the absence of voltage etc. - maybe I can get this working instead of using the 12V trigger.
That actually looks like a cool product for the price, but I'm trying to come up with a solution where I just use my iphone to control the audio and don't have to use remotes or the on/off switch on the amp.
The Amp also has an "auto sense" feature on the line level RCA inputs and so it can sense when music is playing and switch to Standby mode when the source music is turned off. I tried this using my iphone as the source, and it works. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get it to work using the LOC as the source. I do have the gain on the LOC turned all of the way up, and I'm going to experiment with adjusting that. Does anyone know how the "auto sense" feature works on audio inputs? Is it looking for a voltage drop, the absence of voltage etc. - maybe I can get this working instead of using the 12V trigger.
Isn't the gain control function of the LOC2SL an output gain? Try turning the gain control to unity gain (same volume level from input to output) or even at the lowest gain setting, since you should try turning-up the volume of the source to find out if the LOC2SL might require more gain at the input rather than perhaps unnecessary output gain, which might not sound as good, anyway.
Thanks Duster. I just tried that, but it did not make a difference. After many unsuccessful attempts with the line level sensing, I'm back to the 12V trigger...turns out that, if I connect the Negative from the DC Source, the LOC2SL, and the 3.5mm plug heading to the Amp, and then the DC Source to the Input on the LOC2SL and the 12V output from the LOC2SL to the 3.5mm plug headingg to the Amp, it "kindof" works. When I turn the audio source on, the Amp does not turn on - BUT if I continue to increase the volume of the audio source, the Amp's LED starts to go from Red(standby) to flickery green...the higher I turn the volume, the more solid the green light, but it is still not enough to turn the amp on. I measured with a volt meter and it fluctuates between .2 and 1.1V. If I remove the ground from the 3.5mm plug and measure between that ground and the hot side of the plug, I get 6V, but it does not change whether the music source is on or off?The source speaker output cable is approx. 60ft long, and then it goes into a volume controlled switchbox, and so maybe the signal is too weak at that point to allow the LOC2SL to use it's trigger function?
Found a PAC TR-4...I wonder if I connect this to the + speaker wire that is feeding the Switchbox, which should be a stronger signal than the wire exiting the LOC2SL? Any thoughts:
https://pac-audio.com/catalog/specialty-items/tr-4Question on Grounding: So, with the TR-4, the input volts come from taping the speaker + wire...then the Ground would go to the car chassis - since I'm not using it in a car - I would think the Ground would be connected to the Negative wire on the DC Power Source - the positive wire on the DC power source connecting to the 12V Input on the TR-4. So the electricity flows from the speaker wire into the TR-4, but doesn't it have to make it back along the ground to the source of the positive signal in the speaker wire in order for a voltage to appear to the TR-4 sensor? (like the negative of one of the speaker wires?)...will I be completing the circuit if the ground wire of the TR-4 is the negative DC power source as opposed to a ground wire on the original source Amp inside the house? Or since all of my house wiring is eventually grounded together, I'm fine? I'm just wondering if that is where my problem lies: Namely, the positive charge to trip the trigger, does not flow back to complete the circuit....Maybe the ground wire from the TR-4 should be connected to the Negative speaker wire lead?
Edits: 05/28/18 05/28/18 05/28/18 05/28/18 05/28/18 05/28/18 05/28/18
Using a car audio device for a home audio system is unpredictable. If the wall wart is 12V, with a typically under 1 Amp rating, keep in mind a car battery is more like 14V with a high current capability, so perhaps a more robust power supply such as a typical 13.8V benchtop power supply with a 3 Amp rating might provide enough voltage and current for the trigger function.
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