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photo of a Harbeth C7LE2 modified. I use simple putty so everything is reversible and can be further modified to taste.
Teardrop shaped putty oriented top and bottom split the ir flow off the drivers giving better stereo separation. Vertical dispersion suffers a bit but left right separation increases significantly from such a simple tweak.
The angled putty strip, very small diameter, throws sounds upwards to give higher image height when angled inboard ( speakers need to have mirror symmetry).
You can also see tiny strips of regular scotch tape on the actual woofer cone itself. This breaks up the cone into left right symmetry in terms of eigenemodes, which again increases the left right separation.
On certain very lightweight speakers , say Lowthers, the tape has to be extremely small as the tiniest amount of mass increase seems to to slow th drivers down. When I get around to refoaming my DX-4's I will orient the seam vertically in respect to the frame.
A little putty on the dust cap reshapes the air flow coming off the woofer cone. I use a modified screwdriver shape to throw the air left and right.
Tweeter has a small plastic dot inserted behind the mesh to dampen the aluminum dome. A little reshaping creates a slightly more aerodynamic air flow past the mesh. You hear it as slight increase in upper frequency dynamics and detail. Ideas shamelessly stolen from that tweeter with the cone protruding from the tweeter ( you know which one I mean)
I use black automotive putty but you can use play dough, blue tac and any thing similar.
Follow Ups:
Thanks for the ideas! Can you list one cd that you listen to as you do your tests with the putty? Maybe an example of how you move things based upon the song-IE if the voice moves upwards what do you do?
Great stuff
I use standard CDs as well as audiophile favorites.
recently I've been listening to the Stockfische label David Roth, but be aware the voice is phase inverted to the background.
The Harbeth (a customer's) Has the tweeters mirror imaged and offset. Placing the tweeter outboard raises the image height, placing them inboard lowers the image height (quite noticeably). The customer has lower stands than what I would normally use in relation to his seat, so h e wanted a higher sound stage imaging. Angling the putty upwards to the outboard edge accomplishes that.
If you are satisfied with your current listening height. align the putty horizontally. That being said the height ( in relation to the tweeter and woofer can alter the tonal balance significantly). If you want more bottom end raise the putty (closer towards the tweeter. This enables the woofer sound to have greater dispersion. If you lower the horizontal putty, you allow the tweeter greater dispersion and you get more highs.
There is no one set formula as everything is not only component dependent but also room dependent ( also dependent on your tastes ! ).
Have fun playing around
Thanks-this is something I'm playing around with so your observations are very helpfull.
H
are you using?
For diffraction control, look no further than the link below if I do say so myself.
Instead of employing a "shotgun" blast kind of application, I can specifically tailor the characteristics to change specific parameters of the interaction of the drivers.
And while the felt pads cost $56, this mod costs pennies.
Of course YMMV, but I like cheap but effective tweaks.
Jes piggybacking on the thread 'title', Uncle, is all. Not suggesting for a minute that what you've come up with is even related. Keep em coming.
Too much time on my hands, it's ticking away with my sanity
I've got too much time on my hands, it's hard to believe such a calamity
I've got too much time on my hands and it's ticking away from me
Too much time on my hands, too much time on my hands
Too much time on my hands.
A little Styx and a thought hehehe
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