 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
74.87.55.18
Phono cartridges are essentially tiny generators and as such are very easily modified by altering their magnetic fields and structures.for MM magnetics like a Shure, one of the easiest mods is to simply remove the stylus assembly and add a couple of small drops of ferrofluid to the orifice. Allow the cartridge to sit for a few minutes so that the ferrofluid can migrate into the coils and essentially you have increased the power of the motor assembly. It will make the cartridge much more dynamic and give finer nuances of detail. It easily ups the performance to the next higher model. It takes about an hour or so to break in, mainly having the ferrofluid distribute itself throughout the coil structure.
For MC types which use a standard magnet with two formers dropping down to focus th magnetic field on the coils, take a rubberized magnet (refridgerator type) and cut roughly an 1/8th inch square piece. Place it on the cartridge body front. The magnetism should retain this piece, if it seems to stand up and away from the body, cut another piece, as the rubberized magnets generally alter the poles n-s along the surface.
This, of course, intensifies the magntic field going through the coils, again creating a more powerful motor assembly. Same results as the ferrofluid on MM types.
You can also add ferrofluid ( being very careful) to the actual MC coils. I achieve pretty good results, BUT ( I need to add this disclaimer) some rubber suspensions react adversely to the mineral oil in the ferrofluid. I had good results with the Benz and Monster cartridges.
If you have either metglas or mu metal you can also use these materials to channel the magnetic field to the coil area. On the front of the MC types with the horseshoe magnetic structure, a small piece of mumetal down the front of the cartridge helps to "pull" the magnetic field through the coils. The piece I use generally measures about 1/4 inch by 3/16. You can place the earlier magnet trick on top of the mumetal and it will work. These pieces are so lightweight that adding them to a cartridge will rarely change the VTF.
Depending on the construction, sometimes a piece on the top of the body also will work well, as well as the sides. The key is that you are attempting to focus the magnetic fields on the coil structure, so the ends of the mumetal or metglas should end at the center of the coil structure
Any way have fun,
Stu
Edits: 02/01/13Follow Ups:
When Dynavector went from the 17d2 to the 17d3 they wrapped a few windings of wire around the front former. I wonder if I can add that on to my 17d2?
Soldering the load resistors directly across the cart terminals.
Des
If you are referring to solder directly to the pins that is a very bad idea. Best regards Moray James.
moray james
Ok- John Iverson of Electro Research showed me that when I worked with him in at
Orange County factory- so his was a "very bad idea"?
I'll take his word over yours until you care to outline some of your contributions to the
Industry plus proof that would highlight your comments above.
In anticipation.
Des
Does Russ Sherwood get on any asylum forums?
because many of the cartridge pins are embedded in plastic. Not only does the plastic melt but the heat can actually dislodge the extremely fine wires soldered to the pins themselves from the coils.
Resoldering a broken wire is extremely difficult and I rarely can do it successfully.
Iverson can do it, but most others can not, at least not successfully. I would definitely not recommend anyone except the most experienced to try.
YMMV, naturally,
Stu
Yes I agree it does require dexterity and trust in ones ability but I have seen it done,
done it myself and would heed caution to those that feel the problems you mention could
arise with mishandling.
In short if one does not have the "nerve" to attempt then refrain-fair enough-in their
cases Mr James's "very bad idea" is for noting.
However successful implementation has sonic benefits-I've heard these.
Des
Sorry to be pedantic-- allow me to correct a point you made-- "Iverson (RIP) could do it"
I have put foQ on the front and both sides of my Dynavector 17D3 - small squares and a strip on the Anna arm of my Nottingham 294. Did any of this help? I dont know but the Nott and the 17D3 make beautiful music together.
what is foQ?
Stu
A japanese company that produce anti vibration sheet & ...
http://www.foq.jp/products/analog/rs912_e.html
tweaker
I'm sure there will be some horrified members but, here goes.....fo.Q on the cartridge, arm and pivot. Nottingham 294
Edits: 02/03/13 02/03/13
But posting a photo cetainly helps us to understand what you've done. I can presume that you like what the application of the foQ does.
I have never tried it, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt.Maybe lots of it...
In general when it comes to arms and such. I find damping to be critical at the points where a larger mass meets the smaller. For example, headshell interface with arm tube, armtube with central bearing. In your case, I believe a small bit on the headshell rails where it meets the termination to the armtube would work very well. Trya a tiny piece on the intersection of the arm lift lever to the shaft of the arm lift ( horizontal shaft).
You won't need as big a piece as you are using currently. Try a piece the same width but only about 3/32 inch long. Should give you more top end ( if you could use more).
If you do try it, I'd be interested in your reaction, negative or positive.
Stu
It sounds so good as is I'm reluctant to add/change anything, but I much appreciate your comments and will apply the principles in future.
Post a Followup:
| FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
