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In Reply to: RE: Any suitable cascade should work. posted by wushuliu on June 07, 2010 at 23:03:18
Another pic. Looks kind of like a bug...
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Another angle.
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And all done. Hot glue secures the .1 to the enclosure and blue tack secures the caps to each other...
Edits: 06/07/10
It would be better to put the smallest cap closest to the plug. This network affects the highest frequencies.
*groan*
Thanks Al.
If it's ok, I think I will write up a brief post on putting these together at AudioCircle w/ pics so that there will be some kind of single reference point for people who want to put these together without asking the same question over and over and spending thousands of hours using the search function to glean different options/versions.
Al uses Teflon tubing over the exposed leads and the Rs, while I do the same with Teflon plumber's tape wrapping. Al showed me how to Kynar tape the whole bundle, which I also do with all of them now.
We both use TI-shielding, and mine is grounded too (12 AWG copper wire here). So that's under the Kynar wrap as well. The cotton damped Ti surround, taped with Kynar, makes a tidy package that is electrically and mechanically well damped.
CDC suggested replacing as much of the native leads as possible with silver 20 AWG wire for the speaker cable filters, which I did to greater advantage as he stated.
Al suggested changing the AC filtering R-C-Rs (make sure you use safety rated caps!!!!) native leads to Teflon 24 AWG copper (CAT 5 for instance). I had been using 18 AWG copper hookup wire for this purpose until then. Al told me the slimmer wire would give better sonics (more detailed without loss of true LF info), and I tried it and found his theory to be correct in my installations as well. I also wrap all this in Teflon tape to give some measure of greater safety (real or imagined).
As you appear to be doing, Al recommended directly soldering the leads to the tines of the plug, which I'm also doing and it helps sonically.
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