Tweakers' Asylum

Some old pix just to get you started

207.200.116.66

bartc

A

In Reply to: RE: Some suggestions posted by mschlack on April 27, 2010 at 15:08:05

Sorry I don't have current pix. The main difference is that I've replaced the tile shelves with symp clones (constrained layer sandwiches) and all the balls below the shelves with Norsorex (dead, sad, unhappy balls); balls above are half inch stainless steel bearings now.
But you can see the idea (and this is a DIY 3 point structure): rack points support elastomer balls, balls support shelves, shelves support DIY roller ball clones, which support bottom of the components.

Edits: 04/28/10

Follow Ups:

RE: Some old pix just to get you started - mschlack 18:37:13 04/27/10 (2)
Cool. Now I've got the idea. Constrained layer sandwich -- that's like wood/metal/wood, or wood/rubber/wood?
- Note -edited for clarification - bartc 06:02:42 04/28/10 (0)
  The pic was quite old. I actually moved those black Norsorex balls to below the shelf (now a sandwich instead of the tile you see) and the balls on the bearing surface above the shelf are now half inch stainless steel.
- Look up "symposium clone" and "constrained layer" - bartc 19:14:28 04/27/10 (0)
  You have the general idea, but it can be done much better than that. Look up the clone ideas here on Tweaks.
  
  You need layers of different density materials from hard on outer sides moving to increasingly "compliant" in the center. So if you look at a Symposium shelf you'll see from the outside (both sides) in: hard aluminum, MDF or birch ply, gatorboard or foamcore layers. That's the idea. I made mine cheaply enough with outer top surface of birch ply, then MDF, then 3 layers of ordinary foamcore (art store stock), then MDF then hardboard (Masonite) on the bottom. Mine are varied because of cost of aluminum and desire to show wood like surface, which I finish as stained wood.
  
  The key to constrained layer sandwiches is that they need to be free to squish together (crude explanation), to move into one another, so your sides, if you have sides, cannot be glued to any but the top or the bottom layer. That allows the proper movement. They act as a seismic sink or isolator, where at each different layer interface they convert vibrational energy to heat energy.
  
  But if you don't want to mock up one of these, and they're cheap to do to test the theory, then just buy some 1/2" thick or thicker birch plywood. It's not as good, but it is better than most solid woods. Solid woods are more tone woods, that is, you're deliberately using their resonant character and native resonant frequencies to "round out" your sonic picture. It's a different idea/mechanism, but it too can work.

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