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74.177.90.44
If so, whose ink(or paint)? Does it make much difference?
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I still use green markers on the outside edge of my discs. I don’t use it on the spindle edge anymore, because a friend of mine said the ink might get gunked up on the spindle over time. That sounded reasonable to me, so I no longer do it.
As for effectiveness, I think it works. It’s not a huge difference, mind you, but it is audible. Mainly I hear increased focus in imaging and a little added low-level resolution. You can go further and draw lines, etc., on the label side, but I found that going that far made little difference and made my discs look like shit. Marking the outer edge seems to make the biggest difference.
The green ink on CDs supposedly absorbs scattered, refracted light from the red laser and keeps it from bouncing back into surface of the disc where it may induce jitter.
Since Blu-ray uses a blue laser, orange would be the logical color to absorb stray refractions of blue light.
nt
nt
These types of markers use a solvent, which can attack the lacquer layer that seals the aluminized layer, thus allowing air in and causing the dreaded disc rot.
You should never use these types of markers on the edge OR the lacquer surface due to the solvents involved.
Use only water based markers or pens to write on for labeling, or treat the edge of a CD/DVD. This goes for recordables double.
Jon Risch
Totally disagree. Been usin' 'em for years, no problems, as in zero. That's why I can recommend them.
.. I have seen first hand the damage done by Sharpies on both commercial CD's and CD-R's, rendering them unplayable after the lacquer was eaten through when the disc's were labeled with the marker.
The aluminum layer directly under the ink was damaged, and the disc was unplayable and unrecoverable in terms of data.
This was seen in several instances, but to be fair, most of them were found from disc's that had been in a car, in the deep south, so heat and humidity were in play here. There at least two that had been kept inside, and not exposed to automotive conditions, but these were also not as badly damaged.
But hey, what's the difference if only 5% of the disc is eaten or 15%, it's still toast.
These problems didn't occur at first, but after a few years from the time of marking the CD's. Other CD's in the same environments did not have any problems.
I have also seen data CD-R's that had been written on with Sharpies and other brands of markers go bad after storage of 5, 7 and 10 years under "archival" conditions.
I would say you've been very lucky, and I recommend that other's shouldn't take the risk, especially when the highly recommended DIY green pen is a Uni-Posca water based ink (Uni-Posca #63833 I believe).
Jon Risch
What is your favorite all copper coax for an RCA or AES/ EBU digital cable?
Would it take a double run to make an AES/EBU cable, or a triax, and again your favorite?
Thanks much!
Maxell Disc Writer Pens are made to safely write on CD's and DVD's.
They are water based.
I used them several years ago and they do make a subtle sonic difference.Now my disc treatment has changed. I first "Light Treat" my CD's and DVD's
with my 2 million candle power spot light(30 seconds then cool down then a second treatment). This even works great on Blu-Ray discs.Then I use Shine-Ola cleaner then Acoustic Revive Disc Demagnetizer then The Music Gun(negative Ion treatment).
Edits: 02/13/10
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