 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
67.234.137.92
for (in my case) the Dynavector P75 II phono stage and the Hagerman Piccolo.
Anyone know of a good DIY power supply?
Has anyone used one with similar products?
There is no such thing as too many records.
There is just too little room for them!
Follow Ups:
I like the aesthetics of old HP lab supplies. A dual supply will allow you to do both at once. Of course, they are complicated devices, and many are pretty old. Calibrated, lab ready units are expensive. If you shop carefully, you can find something working and warranted for $25-75 (the links I posted were hastily found examples, not suggestions). They are a bit of crap shoot, but if you love the look as I do. . .
http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-6205B-DUAL-DC-POWER-SUPPLY-0-40V-3A-0-20V-6A_W0QQitemZ170444349395QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item27af465fd3#ht_500wt_1139
http://cgi.ebay.com/HP-6227B-Dual-DC-Power-Supply-6498_W0QQitemZ230436244297QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item35a7120b49
You could also consider building something. Little regulated supplies are very simple, and there are kits floating around.
Paul
The P75's manual suggests that its internal design and construction reduces or eliminates the effect of the external supply. Not sure what that means, however, whether smaller switching supplies or just something as simple as onboard regulators. I just used a wall-wart spec'd as you posted, with good results in my (now for sale) P75. - Pat
to replace it?
I bought the Hagerman and the P75 to allow me to be able to play with a larger variety of cartridges than with my Anthem Pre 1, which I have a love affair with and will spend big bucks to get it upgraded, SOMEDAY.
I needed a stand-alone unit since I get in preamps and integrated amps without phono. Mikee go crazy without phono.
But I have two good sounding CD players that get better sounding as the media is improved. I'm to the point now I can enjoy either...right now, I'm playing an older CD...I also have the LP of "As Falls Wichita, So Fals Wichita Falls" by Metheny & Mays. The CD is damned good...a tiny bit hot on the top, but that's ECM's sound anyway. Details are so cool on that recording!
I need to find something to put under the CDP...I'm using two AR4 speakers as a shelf for it...for shame, for shame! Tweaks for CDs...I gave up on spikes for CDs, they respond better with pucks...hard, not too soft (sorbothane and Vibrapods...). But before I do anything, I have to find a big block of wood or maybe a huge patio cast concrete piece...
always good for basement use! Then rebuild the ARs!
There is no such thing as too many records.
There is just too little room for them!
.
Both their voltage and current requirements.
P75:
AC to CD power adaptor 12V 500mA DC
Two pin adaptor center negative outer positive
Outer diameter 5.5mm
Inner Diameter 2.1mm
I'm a bit confused with this one as the kit seems different than the assembled version (which mine is).
Piccolo:
12 volt 200 mA
Center-positive, outer-negative
http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/piccolo.pdf
There is no such thing as too many records.
There is just too little room for them!
'Cause they look like warts on your wall.
Although the beer thing makes sense. Jackie Gleason said he drank to remove warts. Not from himself, but from other people.
Now on to power supplies. You could purchase a generic one as Duster has suggested, and hope it's better than what was supplied. Or you could modify it, as he also suggested.
Or, you could start here, as I'm going to do for a +/- 15 VDC supply I'm going to try on my new "The Truth" line stage preamp eventually. You'll have to source all the parts though, and use higher value resistors to get your required 12 VDC. You'll only have to build the top (+) half, since you don't need the negative supply. Likely a quieter supply than the generic one.
The top schematic in the link is the power supply. Click on it for a larger view.
see link:
I actually did know that, but it didn't come across that way in my post. Mike knows my sense of humor, but it may not have translated well.
I'll buy the next round. Worts and all.
Image: Tripp Lite PR-4.5A
IME, a very good sounding PSU for nominal 12VDC audio gear. A few simple mods can provide notable sonic benefit.
I'll look for the unit.I looked and all are 13.5 volts?
What about amperage?
500mA
and
200mA
There is no such thing as too many records.
There is just too little room for them!
Edits: 02/11/10
A Tripp Lite PSU performs worlds better to my ear than any wall wart I've ever tested for audio (and I’ve tested quite a few of them). In my experience, no worries about a 4.5A max (3A continuous) rating for a low current device. I use a Tripp Lite PR-4.5A to power a 40mA draw Nakamichi subwoofer crossover (10.8VDC - 15.6VDC allowable). I would not be concerned about a 13.8VDC PSU for either of your units. However, confirmation of my anecdotal opinion should be sought from folks who can be *definitive* about your particular gear if powered by a Tripp Lite PR-4.5A.
As too the matter of amperage, 500mA and 200mA are minimum requirements. Having plenty of power supply headroom is a good thing, up to a point. Meaning, I would not use a high current 12A PSU to power a low current draw device. That would be over the top, energy wasting while idle, and potentially unsafe, IMHO. As for safety and protection, the Tripp Lite PR-4.5A already has its own chassis mount AC fuse, and I use a 1A inline fuse for a DIY DC power umbilical built for the subwoofer crossover unit.
As to a high current outboard PSU application that I also have experience of, I also happily implement a 12-Amp Tripp Lite PR-12 to feed a vintage Spectron 600 power amplifier (yes, the now noble maker of SOTA digital power amplifiers) placed in my computer audio system, and to my ear the amplifier sounds just as sweet as it did when it was powered by a battery in a nominal 12V mobile audio environment. I use a 10A inline fuse for the DIY DC power umbilical built for that high current application.
The mods I mentioned are quite simply an inline IEC inlet (and a detachable audiophile power cord), vibration control footers (and a plinth), a film and foil bypass capacitor, and a fused DIY DC power umbilical. That's all I've done and think that’s all that’s required for my own wants/needs. You can see more detailed info about the mods listed on my Inmate Systems page located in the "Customized Stereo Subwoofer System" section:
Hi Duster,
Have you ever tried Acopian power supplies? In my casual searches I came across them as having exceptional specs and being relatively expensive, $100+. They do weigh some 5 lbs and are not made for the audiophile world.
These have to be put inside another chassis as the AC is connected via an external barrier strip but that could allow you to eliminate the IEC.
Here is the home page link: http://www.acopian.com/
Here is the link to the Gold Box high performance linear regulated power supply:
I would likely look into a KingRex PSU if I were to seek another unit near that price point:
According to the link below, the Tripp Lite PR-4.5A is 13.8 volts DC, at 4.5 amps. Hence the "4.5A" designation. Yes, I did say "hence" and yes, I am Shakespeare!
Actually the specs say 4.5 amps intermittent, 3 amps continuous.
I'd be looking at a dropping resistor to bring this down to 12V for your Dynavector and Piccolo. 13.8 is fine for powering that old 8-track player in your garage, but may not be for your phono stages.
I'm willing to bet that unless Duster can give you a method to tweak the hell out of this, it's not going to sound any better than what you're already using.
Post a Followup:
| FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2025, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
