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I'm wondering if anyone has converted a Monster HTS 3500 MKII reference power center to allow the use of after-market detachable IEC power cords. If so, was it a difficult tweak, did it make a noticeable improvement that justified the effort, and what PC did you find gave the greatest benefit?
Thanks so much,
Chris
Follow Ups:
Chris,
I did this a few years back on my 3500 mkII. No it wasn't difficult, in my opinion. Using the "nibbler" to open up the hole to accept the IEC inlet took some time to get right. If your soldering skills aren't up to snuff you can cut the existing power cord off a few inches from where it enters the chassis and use a Furutech or other IEC inlet that uses screws to connect the wires. Then you don't have to solder and you can try cords to you heart's content. In fact if you put a male IEC on the cut Monster cord you can compare that cord to others directly.
Its tough for me to say exactly how much difference the cord/IEC itself made as I swapped out the outlets for some Furutechs at the same time. The overall difference was quite pleasing to my ears. I have only used VH-Audio's DIY Flavor 4 power cord (a very good cord IMHO) between the wall and the Monster.
Since that point I've gone back and tweaked again and again. I reinforced the solder traces on the undersides of the boards w/good copper wire, added a few Auricaps at select outlets (after surge suppression, obviously), attached some carbon fiber to the interior chassis (soaked cf in rubber cement and laid on chassis walls like fiberglass), and damped some of the chassis vibs w/rope caulk and other materials. Overall, I like how it sounds in my system but I have not compared it to anything else. It has been more of a learning / keeping busy / will this really make a difference / fun / hobby / entertainment / obsession etc.. for me.
If this seems like it'll be fun for you, I say go for it. It will likely sound a bit better IMHO. If you're on the cautious side, sell it or save-up and upgrade. There have been some great reviews and recommendations on really good conditioners that are out there (used even).
Word of caution though! Check all of your connections and make sure you do this safely. Sparks and fires are no fun. I've heard-tell that this kind of "tweaking" on electrical thingies may somehow void a homeowners insurance policy should anything unpleasant happen...not sure how true it is, but that sounds bad.
Best of luck!
Regards,
Doug
Hi Doug
Two other questions. When you say cut off the cord a few inches from where it enters the chassis and then use a screw-on IEC from Furutech, do you mean just screw the IEC inlet to the end of the cord and not affix it to the chassis? I just ask because not having to try to cut a hole for the IEC would make life a lot easier...
Also, is the cord/wiring for the monster just a standard 3 conductor white, black, green, or is it some weird color code? Just to be sure I'll be able to figure out which wire goes to which tab on the IEC.
Thanks!
Chris
Chris,
Yep, that's exactly what I meant...not affixing the IEC to the chassis. Yep, it's easier but do it safe-like, OK.
If I recall correctly the wires were blue, brown, and blue and green striped...not too tough to figger out, just use a DMM to determine which wire-color is/was connected to which pin and look up which (hot/neutral/ground) goes in which position on a standard 3-prong plug.
Best of luck!
Regards,
Doug
Hi Doug
If it's not too much trouble, which Furutech duplexes did you put into the Monster, and how hard were they to swap in? Is it more or less just like changing an outlet in your house, or do the space constraints make things a lot trickier?
Thanks!
Chris
Hey Chris,
I used the FP-15 copper outlets and the FI-10 IEC inlet. If I recall I had to break off the top and bottom of grounding straps so that they'd fit properly. They are only held in place on the conditioner by the center screw that would normally keep an outlet cover in place. I did this with pliers twisting and bending back-and-forth until it broke.
I like the Furutechs but the Oyaide R-1 is better in most regards, IMHO. Regardless of outlet used in the Monster the grounding strap must be removed....I'm not sure if any of the "better" outlets have removable straps or not. Chris VenHaus of VH-Audio is very knowledgeable and very responsive...may want to ask him if that's of interest.
I think there are some good discussions on bang-for-the-buck outlets in both tweakers and cable asylums. If interested, check out "Duster"'s posts for a mostly fair/objective and well informed tester/contributer in these matters; again IMHO.
Regards,
Doug
Hi Doug
Thanks so much for all the helpful info!
It sounds like fun to me, so I guess it's time to get started :-)
Best regards
Chris
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