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I bought an inexpensive solder pot. I've got some enameled wire I'd like to use for interconnects, and perhaps other things too, and I'm also thinking that the pot would be useful for some tinning operations. While there are various ways to remove enamel coating from wires, solder pots are often recommended/used as the easiest/quickest way to deal with the coating. I thought the solder pot cost was low enough to give one a try.Assuming the solder pot otherwise "works", is there anything to know/understand about working with a solder pot? I am considering buying some Kester Ultrapure Sn63/Pb37 bar solder.
Do I also need to use a separate flux with solder pot operations? Is there anything else I need?
Thanks.
- SJ
Edits: 11/20/07Follow Ups:
WHat kind of solder pot did you get?
I have been looking for one as well.
Where did you purchase the solder pot from?
Thanks,
Bill
Bill, I was looking at these:http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?product_id=21-3511&catalog_name=MCMProducts
Kevin at DIY Cable, always helpful, suggested and guided me to the above pot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MADELL-ML-21C-MINI-SOLDERING-POT_W0QQitemZ280176122570QQihZ018QQcategoryZ58293QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I bought the latter.
I also looked at new and used industrial/heavy-duty pots from companies such as Plato and Hakko. They're very nice, high-quality, high-performance devices, but were more than I wanted to spend.
For solder, I found some folks on eBay selling Sn63/Pb37 bar solder in various quantities, brand new and "NOS", and made by different manufacturers. I'm choosing to use Kester Ultrapure. Since I'm already preparing an order with Mouser, I'm going to include a single bar of this solder (1 2/3 lbs/bar) and a small jar of Kester "44" paste flux. I'll start with this and see where it takes me.
Cheers.
- SJ
You will need a good flux. The Kester rosin based flux works well and is easy to get in paste form. Be careful not to get the acid type of flux as it will cause corrosion after a while.
Other useful supplies are popsicle sticks or tongue depressors and cotton swabs (get the type with wooden sticks). The tongue depressors are good for adding flux, stirring the solder and removing dross(dirt and residue that floats to the top). Cotton swabs work well for removing the old flux from the edges. Too much flux will cause the joint to get more flux residue that is more work to clean off. A small fan is handy to remove the flux fumes and smoke.
Be sure to wait long enough for the pot to fully heat. At least 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on the size.
Thanks for the detailed information. I was considering trying some Kester rosin paste flux, too. Okay, and some wooden stick swabs, some tongue depressors. Not too miuch flux. Ventilation would be good. Let the pot fully heat.
- SJ
They're pretty simple. You should have separate flux and some scrap of wood or metal to remove the dross now and then. As for enameled wire, there are "solderable" coatings that you can get through with heat and flux. They work well. Unless you specifically bought wire with this kind of coating, you probably got Formvar or some similar thing. Those have to be scraped or sanded before soldering. The amount of heat that will remove them would oxidize the wire and make soldering difficult or impossible. I think Litz is almost always made with a solderable coating, but you should still check.
Thanks for the reply.
- SJ
Screw down the pot to a good sized piece of 3/4" plywood or MDF and always clamp it to the work table.
I don't know about this Formvar but I use mine with Cardas, Vampire and other enameled wires. Indispensable for tinning the twist into plain stranded, too. Use the Kester bar solder you mentioned. Never bothered with flux. Only thing it wouldn't tin was the shield on some Cardas Micro-twin but the 896 degree setting on my iron took care of that.
Do be careful.
Securing the pot. Good safety point. Accidently knocking one of these over while it contained molten solder would likely be a big problem.I'm considering working with the same brands and types you mention. I don't think the inexpensive pot I've bought is gonna get anywhere near 896 degrees.
- SJ
Your inexpensive pot is fine for almost everything. Mine was 25 bucks.
What I meant was that the shield on the Cardas needed the 896 degrees my Hakko solder station can do.
Similar price to what I bought.
Ahh. So you've removed wire enameling with your soldering iron? What's the technique? My first project is working with very fine 33'ish guage wire. I'm not too keen on the task of scraping or sanding the enamel from wire this small. I'll be working under a microscope ;) Maybe it's easier than that, where just a few light passes with fine sand paper will do the trick? Dunno yet, I haven't done it myself.
I also have a Hakko soldering station. I really enjoy using it. For a recent job I pulled out a nice-quality standalone soldering iron. It's not that the iron doesn't/won't do the job, but the experience made me think about how much nicer the station is to use.
- SJ
I have successfully remove enamel with a solder pot or an iron. The temperature required depends upon the enamel on the wire. A solder pot is better because it will heat the tip of the wire faster and remove the enamel before the rest of the wire gets to hot to handle or compromises the insulation you wish to retain.
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