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I just got a nice Butcher Block cutting board to use as an amp stand. It's unfinished and I was wondering should it be treated with something or not?
I see commercialy made amp stands that are finished. Is this for appearance or protection of the wood? I have at my disposal various finishes. Danish oil, lemon oil, polyurethane and varnish. Which of these would be a good choice if any?
TIA
Follow Ups:
s
I have been waiting for someone to make a quip along those lines!!
Cheers
Although it was a legit question, I was wondering why no one jumped on that line :^) .
A little expensivo, so use where only the best will suffice.
.
Hi.
to hold my tube power amp & a 1" thick natural marble slate for my
SS powre amp (being lighter).
Of course, these heavy natural stones are all 'floated' on the carpetted concrete slab floor via three-in-a-set rubber cushion legs.
So no varnish needed.
The bass is clean, well defined & no boomy (I hate) even during 120dB peak levels test session with strong 25Hz synthetic bass notes.
c-J
PS: Even solid hardwood can sack with time under heavy loads.
I also like granite although mine are only 2 inches thick. There are not a lot of shelving units that can take it without movement.
... I remember Pierre Sprey (Mapleshade) STRONGLY recommending against any kind of penetrating oil on his and other maple platforms. Said it just deadened the sound, or something like that, and once you did it you couldn't undo it. Recommended lacquer mostly. Or just leave it unfinished.
Whilst tweaking is usually a great idea, any finish you apply is a once only job.
Anything that soaks in will tend to make the wood more dense and if you are already looking for a heavy bass then that sounds fine to me.As to whether you want a rigid coupling to whatever the platform is above or a roller type of set up of a plain soft footer is, clearly if you spend any time reading here, a combination of personal taste and system dependent.
OIl is nice but takes a long time to really dry out and needs refinishing and tends to collect dust.
I would use a diluted varnish of whatever kind, at least for the first coat, as it will absorb easily into the wood and then dry to a hard finish. A very light sand between coats and maybe 3 or 4 coats will give a very nice finish. My taste would be for a matt varnish. Your's may be different.
The difference between unfinished and finished butcher block is minimal. Since butcher block is so think and dead, the finish matters a lot less than other wood-products. If you do want to finish them, generally natural finishes (oil-based varnish or laquers) generally sound better for audio.
Using a solid footer under the butcher block will probably improve the sound much more than a finish.
"Using a solid footer under the butcher block will probably improve the sound much more than a finish.".
I have some wooden balls (birch) and brass cones to experiment with for that =^) .
see link.
http://mother-of-tone.com/lacquer.htm
real fun. wipe it on with a cloth. I used dammar crystals because they are widely available at art supply stores.
The Web site http://mother-of-tone.com reports that most of the varnishing materials in instruments kill their sound.
The suggestion is to remove that varnish and use a suitable lacquer, also for speakers' cabinet.
Any experience on this?
Thanks
Roberto
No experience on removal. Sounds too time consuming and risky to me. But for new equipment, I've followed the spirit of Altmann's views on two components. My speakers are Shellac on Baltic Birch and, and my Dac has a finish composed of Dammar crystals dissolved in pure gum turpentine. I like the sound of both, but no comparison to synthetic finishes on the same components. These finishes are also easy to touch up if necessary.
Some comparison has been made for C37 lacquer, only for speakers not their cabinets.
Thanks
Roberto
three or four ball bearings to support the amp will [should] offer an improvment over just the chopping board.
The amp has these thick, semi-soft rubber feet. I tried supporting it on brass isolation cones on a concrete floor and the "warmth" went away. It sounded "thin" that way. I may try the ball bearings under the Maple chopping board though.
that could work too ....
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