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76.168.68.144
Here we are 10 years later, and the inner tube inside has numerous leaks.
Repeat emails to the current townsend people yeild no reply.
Just looking for the right replacement innertube, really....
Since the original has it's valve on the outside circumference of the tube, it's certainly not a regular stock sort of item.
There's really no reason to replace the housing here, just the tube is all I'm after.
This is their smallish "Cd" platform, of which they must have sold hundreds in the 90's from the likes of audio-advisor, etc etc. So I can't be the only one wondering ............
Anyone had any luck, or even info.. on this ?
Thanks,
J.D.
Follow Ups:
like load-board material/s, sand under? which levels the field - small vibration's wise!
WarmestTimbo in Oz
The Skyptical Mensurer and Audio ScroungerAnd gladly would he learn and gladly teach - Chaucer. ;-)!
'Still not saluting.'
http://www.theanalogdept.com/tim_bailey.htm
...until replacing them all with Black Diamond Racing Shelves and Cones for better sound.
Here's another suggestion if you are not able to find the correct size inner tybe: use either 2 tennis balls or 3 Superballs between the plates of the sink. I don't have a Seismic Sink but have done somethng similar to this with a Bright Star product. You can use silicon glue or something similar that can be pried off in case you are not happy with the results.
Question was not "Wonder how I could get much better results ?"
Question was how I go about getting a replacement part for something I already use / own.
... and your question was answered adequately by other members. Forgive me for even thinking that you might want to improve on your system.
You may want to re-calibrate your tone, then.
When someone's asking about getting a part for a device, it doesn't come across as particularly affable to jump straight to declaring a replacement as necessary and "much better". ( Without backup or qualification, in this case.)
Sorry. You're right. I should have been less blunt in my recommendation. I had a couple of seismic sinks a few years ago and had the same problem with one of the tubes going out. Rather than rebuild with another tube( my wife didn't like the way they looked anyway), I tried another alternative for isolating both my mono amps and CD player and that was the Promethean spring platform. It made a much bigger difference in sound quality. Dynamics increased( both micro and macro), soundstage expanded, and the frequency extremes smoothed out even further. My wife didn't care much for the looks of this new isolation base either, but then, she often stated, " Why couldn't you just be happy with a nice little all-in-one stereo package from Walmart?"
The inner tube used sucks, IMHO. Despite appearances, it is a standard bicyle tube that has been glued in with contact cement. You can carefully pry apart the halves, and replace it with a tube of similar size. IIRC that exact size is not easily found, nor is that weird English 'woods' valve. I replace a few with standard type tubes and valves, after drilling out the hole a bit. Be sure to get a Japanese made tube or US made one. They are much better built.
Stu
Agree on the suck quality of the inner tube. I'm sure it's got to be thin and very susceptible to dry-out and leaks-- for complex Audio Related reasons. Yeah, that's it.
Anyway-- you're really saying that it's a normal tube -- ie, valve on the inside of the circle ...? I've been patching this one for over 10 years now, and, though I've never had it out of the chassis, it just doesn't look possible that the Outward Valve arrangement is a normal cycle tube....
What do you do, get something way bigger and then manipulate into Inside-Out configuration ? And then glue it in that way ? Can't picture it ...
I'll take any hints you may have, though.
Thanks,
J.
I believe I got a slightly larger tube and started with inserting the valve stem into the hole (after appropriately drilling it out) you can arrange the the tube by folding it over as you flip over the rubber. I believe I folded over the two closest corners. That's the way the later heavier duty models have it.
Hardest thing was scraping off the old glue as I didn't want any 'spikey' residue left to possibly puncture the tube. Or yeah, you can modify the Sink too while you're at it. Later HD ones had a piece of MDF glued to the top plate. I know of some who shot in a bit of silicon fluid into the tube, not a lot, say and ounce of so, to further dampen the Sink's movement.
On my last repair, I didn't even bother to reglue the top plate.
Stu
Thanks for the details....
I'll see how I do with the Rep contact, and then start looking for new tube if that doesn't work out.
J.
Contact the US importer, Dan Meinwald at "dmeinwald@earthlink.net", or at 562-422-4747. Dan has rebuilt numerous Sinks for customers, and knows which tubes and replacement parts are appropriate.
I'll give a call on Monday, thanks.
J.
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