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I’d like to share my DIY MMG stands, recently completed. I have long wanted to raise my MMG’s and to have them stand vertically, as many in this forum recommend. I went the DIY route primarily to save money, but also to make stands that were unique and attractive.
My design uses the original steel legs, which are angled backwards about 9 degrees. The stands are made of 2x12 maple. I chose maple because it is heavy. I simply cut the maple with the top face sloping at the same corresponding angle as the original steel legs. When the steel legs are screwed into the maple stands, the MMG panel is vertical and at about eight inches high off the floor. See attached photos.
For esthetic reasons I wanted the front of the stands to be recessed two inches from the front plane of the MMG’s. I knew this would tip the speakers forward, so I joined each pair of stands with three 3/8” poplar dowels. The purpose of the dowels is to hold a counterweight to keep the speakers from tipping over. My counterweights are VPI Bricks (remember those?), but I could have used rocks, sandbags, or dumbbells.
I added spikes for stability and the ability to fine-tune the verticality of the speakers. As it turns out, I like them best leaning forward about half a degree.
Finally, I added 3/8” poplar dowels as braces. They attach to the MMG’s via a hard plastic finial (see photo) screwed into the MDF frame. (Of course, I had to remove the socks first, seal the pole piece off with plastic to keep any sawdust away, drill the holes, and replace the socks.)
The stands and dowels were finished with two coats of Minwax clear satin Wipe-On Polyurethane.
I spent less than $100 in materials and several hours planning and carrying out my project.
How do my MMG’s sound on their new stands? Imaging, instead of being down near where front wall and floor meet, is higher, at ear level. This makes everything more natural. There seems to be an increase in resolution. While there is less bass it is not an issue because I use a subwoofer. The MMG’s appear to be playing like a big speaker, which, I guess, means a subjective increase in dynamics. The experience of listening to music is much more immersive. All in all, a worthwhile project.
Follow Ups:
Crossing the side braces from upper left to lower right.....and upper right to lower left than lashing them together where they cross with epoxy soaked thread would shorten the Unsupported lengths of each brace at minimal extension of overall length.
In this way you'd also increase the torsional rigidity of the panel.....
If you have google Sketchup, I'll send you my plans......
Too much is never enough
it would certainly improve the stiffness of the design. I thought of increasing the rods' diameter to 1/2" or even 5/8" but your idea is better.
"Epoxy-soaked thread" —I learned something new!
Think triangulation.
Maximum designed in stiffness will trump high mass.....at least for this application.
Too much is never enough
Very elegant execution with minimal materials.
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Nice stands, enjoy them! I made stands for mine a couple months ago and have really enjoyed the benefits.
Cool. Have you tried putting a piece of MDF on the front, under the speaker, to fill in the gap? I was planning to do that on my own MMG stands, but never got around to it, so I don't know if it would help with the loss of bass when you raise them up or cause more problems by increasing the baffle size.
Thanks, Josh. I haven't tried what you suggest primarily because I like the open look. Closing off the front would make them more into a box.
My plan was to put some grille cloth over the MDF just to make it look like a taller speaker. Of course my stands were different than yours, they looked kind of silly without the front piece, like the speakers were skiing or something.
OTOH, if I built a box I could really fill it with stones!
Good point. Though they'd be kind of hard to move . . .
A lot of people put subs down there.
They look a lot more expensive than $100. Other than the VPI Brick, they look like they could be a factory option or aftermarket stand. Might want to secure the Brick, though; be a shame if someone moved one and caused the speaker to topple! Nice job.
to prevent topple effect...otherwise cool and different
may the bridges I burn light the way...
Of course, a non-toppling stand would be one in which the front of the stand extends 3 or 4 inches past the front plane of the speakers. Perhaps one which the front slopes down to the floor instead of being perpendicular?
essentially a sheet of wood (or for bad-ass effect: black plexi-glass) across the top for stability...probably not 'too' much a concern unless you have toddlers running around the room!
may the bridges I burn light the way...
Edits: 10/06/12
Toddlers, or worse yet anything such as this:
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.
may the bridges I burn light the way...
Allows you to adjust the balance with a strategically-placed dog biscuit.
Biscuit or not, should the door bell ring all bets would be off.
Nice and clean lines, lookin' gud-
may the bridges I burn light the way...
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