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RE: Whats Next????????

69.65.66.188

JBen

In Reply to: RE: Whats Next???????? posted by atanks on August 21, 2012 at 15:21:18

Those are mean-looking MMGs, A! Later, please mention the pro/cons that you have observed after this mods.

Downrazor's and mine, to my knowledge, are the only MMGs of the old guard left around here. We ourselves stay young at heart :-))

The newer MMGs have been so at least since the early 2000s. So, you can pick and choose tweaks.

The most significant? In my case:
- Line-level biamping (mine is PLLXO-based though I had originally thought of going active [ALLXO]. Either way works, depending on things)
- The chokes
- Frame reinforcement
- Razoring

Plus, attention to other details, but that's way longer to tell right now. When the mods are properly done, even a supposedly under-powered power amp will make the MMGs sound impressive, as long there is good power supply in the amps. With larger good amps, one gets even more of the good stuff. In either case, with some luck and work, one may not even want to turn on a sub-woofer for most music.

If I had to start all over, I would do frame reinforcement first. It allows the impact of the other mods to really shine through better. Otherwise, the benefits of the rest of the mods will be partially hidden by the vibrations of the "unrestrained" stock frame. Full re-framing is one way to reinforce (not the only one or even the one I chose.)

Some people like to turn their Maggies around to pole piece forward. It does not work for me but it does for some.

Follow Ups:

RE: Whats Next???????? - atanks 11:06:06 08/22/12 (3)
Jben, Dawn, TYU, thanks for your comments/suggestions. The system consists of oppo93(used as all in one), Nad T175, Emotiva xpa5 (300w @ 4ohms), mmg mains, mgcc1 center, erd1 surrounds, rythmik f12 sub. I havent had much time with the mmg's since the addition of the stands because the wife always seems to be home lately :) ,Im sure you know what i mean! I will post pros/cons when i get to listen a while. I would be interested in the "recipe" jben may have that D mentioned. Dawn, the jumper you refer to replacing with wire is the attenuator jumper? Anyone have a part # for the choke needed? I am intrigued with the biamp suggestion and hear nothing but positive things about it but its like a foreign language to me at my current infancy stage in audio.
- RE: Whats Next???????? - JBen 23:33:31 08/22/12 (1)
  Ok, back to the subject.
  Dawnrazor mentioned my speaker cable recipe, which I call MultiMag 842R. The "R" is for "ribbon". It is not the prettiest thing on earth. It is not really cheap (well, perhaps because I use 4 pairs 10ft'each for bi-amping). It takes a little patience to keep the wires parallel when building it. It is not a "miracle cable". It does not a great system make, it simply "allows". Whatever comes, it passes it through. I credit it with retaining the great crystal-clear treble of single-run 26ga magwire, while still allowing tons of bass (without sub-woofer) and passing through superb imaging, as may be in each recording.
  The 842 refers to the wires contained in the RatShack magwire pack:
  - 8 parallel runs of 22ga next to
  - 4 parallel runs of 26ga next to
  - 2 parallel runs of 30ga
  The combination adds to about 12ga. These are all laid parallel, sandwiched between two layers of a 2" ribbon of a thick "tape". For ribbon tape, I used this stuff sold at Home Depot: Carmacell's AP/Armaflex #TAP18230. This is a 30ft length of 2" wide, 1/8" thick insulation tape. It costs about $8/roll.
  I never did a "how to" on it but feel free to drop me a note if that day comes when you are ready to do it. Yet, I do STRONGLY encourage you to experiment what Dawnrazor suggests with thin magwire single or dual lengths. The experience may tell you something about your total system capabilities. For example, if single 26ga line does not improve the treble, at least slightly, bet that something else maybe holding things back. It is not necessarily that single-length 26ga will improve everything...but at least the treble HAS to improve. It has always done at least this much for me (vs even pricey brands of cable).
  On the bi-amping, I'd suggest to first take care of other low-hanging fruit (tweaks). Meanwhile, I'll look at the hardware that you currently have and see if there is a cheap way for you to test the waters. Perhaps you have another power amp or half-decent receiver laying around that we could use to feed the tweeter only. In other words, the tweeter would be fed at line-level while the mid/low remains using the current low pass (speaker-level). This would likely be simple enough -- no need to break the current xover, just unhook the tweeter terminals -- and very VERY cheap to try.
  Once you hear what the tweeter can do when driven directly, you can decide to how far to pursue the full line-level bi-amp conversion. Maggies become far more "dynamic", bass-full and clear at the direct hands of a peppy power amp when the mid/bass is also driven directly. However, my first goal was the tweeter's clarity. So, I worked on this first in the early days...and never looked back.
  BTW, I tried Taz's capless mods (mentioned by Tyu earlier). As portrayed, the low pass is no good (Taz may have misread the original values). However, the capless high pass to the tweeter is a revelation in clarity that only line-level xovers can improve upon.
  
  Edits: 08/22/12
  - RE: Whats Next???????? - atanks 06:08:44 08/23/12 (0)
    J, thanks for the info! I will try the magwire dawn suggested to start things off just as soon as i get familiar with the mmg's on the new stands. Infact i will get things ready this weekend so there ready to go. Then i will move on to more of the "low hanging fruit". As far as my current hardware goes, dont be bashfull say it like it is thats how i learn. Keep in mind this is my first system and i want it to improve, theres nothing wrong with having a wish list! Thanks for your help, ive learned alot so far from the asylum.
- RE: Whats Next???????? - JBen 13:32:34 08/22/12 (0)
  Just passing by quickly. Here's the parts info. in the meantime. I have both models and both work fine. I use the 5522 (4 in my case because I use one for each driver).
  
  Shielded RF Chokes 10uH 10% J.W.Mailler/Bourns
  Mouser.com #: 542-5522-RC chokes (23Amps) - original recommendation by Al
  Mouser.com #: 542-5502-RC chokes (9 Amps) - if the above not available

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