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In Reply to: RE: Whaaaat!!! :-)) ... posted by josh358 on October 16, 2010 at 07:08:26
I am thinking about the razor tweak which will be tweak #2 since I still have the silver "mag" wire being used from the MMG's. What stuff did you decide was best to use DR ? I read about more than one product I think .
Follow Ups:
Yep, Johnv got it right.
The cascade is easier to work with and is black so it looks better.
I also use rope caulk and a 3m dampening product, but everyone just uses the cascade. Add some rope caulk at least if you ask me.
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
The stuff works as advertised. I did one speaker only first, and ran that for a while. Placing the finger tips on the back pole pieces while playing music, I could definitely feel a reduction of vibration with the treated panel.Audibly, I feel there is a reduction of the MMG "haze" or "glare" that people talk about. The bass may have improved some also, but I haven't done any measurements. JBen wanted me to do some tests, but I had to temporarily give up my Laptop I use for that stuff to the wife. Best test is listening anyway :^)
Still have to finish the other side, but getting there.
Edits: 10/19/10
Hey johnv,
Placing the finger tips on the back pole pieces while playing music, I could definitely feel a reduction of vibration with the treated panel.
Was that when you also had them in wood frames??
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Yes, I've had the wood frames on now since July. So the razor tweek can obviously improve things in addition to that also.
Edits: 10/20/10
Thanks John.
I have thought this for a while that the wood doesnt end things when it comes to vibrations, and that the frames and the razor treatment are compliments.
Thanks for saying so.
Veil be gone!
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Unless of course I did my frames "wrong" (where have I heard that from before?)...:^)With the sandwich frame construction like mine (originally posted by inmate Davey), I feel the biggest obvious advantage is the added rigidity and mass as compared to the stock MDF. As I posted before, the design really increased the sturdiness and weight of the entire speaker. Unlike what PG states about the option of using struts on his frames, with these frames, if not totally vertical, they are mandatory.
Since I didn't originally reframe only one side and do a comparison to the stock MDF frame, honestly I can't "confirm or deny" the vibration transfer thing. All I know is I'm one happy camper with the sound now.
So maybe they compliment each other in my case more then others. But if someone goes to the trouble to reframe, this added tweak shouldn't be that big of a deal to be included.
Anyway, here's a side question for you. If I have Cascade VMAX left over, is it OK to use it on the inside walls of my external crossover boxes? Will the aluminum effect the circuit in there? The components will be floating on a smaller separate mounting board, so I wouldn't think so. I'm really sold on this product now.
Edits: 10/21/10 10/21/10 10/21/10
Hey John,
I agree with Ieaudiodude. The aluminum is not magnetic and might help with rf, and definitely with vibrations.
You can reverse it if you need to, though I swear by that stuff and put it on shelves and on and in components.
I'll be doing things wrong myself I am sure :)
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Sounds like a good use of remaining product ,it should help dampen vibration for the caps'N'parts and a "Cascade VMAX Faraday Cage" EM field blocker isn't be a bad thing. Certainly better than throwing the leftovers in the trash that's for sure.IMHO
Yes I agree. But I wouldn't throw it away other wise, I don't throw anything away, just ask the wife. :^)
How many of us here have a closet or worst attic full of stuff stored in "the audiophile graveyard"? I know I do !
As they say on the cable show I have watched, I am not a hoarder "I'm a collector" . I also find it hard to part with a lot of things stereo related !
I hope I'm not that bad.
Nah I'm sure your not , you save Audio gear , a good thing to hoard, those space cadets save dead cats garbage ,animal shite! and "collectables" from the home shopping network. I Assure you, WE are normal .... well .... sort of normal.
Hey DR, as cheap of a tweak as the razoring is I will definitely use the rope caulk also, Didn't you have a page laid out for doing the razoring ? I must be blind or half asleep and cant locate it. Could you email the pics and procedure if you have a chance ?
Audiodude,
Here is the write up, it has all the picts I have that are worth seeing...
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Thanks DR ,that's exactly what I was looking for !
This is what I am using, pretty sure that is what DR recommended:http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=mug&n=155318&highlight=Cascade+V-MAXMP&r=
Edits: 10/16/10
John, you used the Cascade to cover the front, back, braces, the entire perimeter everywhere except where the wires cross the mylar at the bottom correct ? How many sheets do you think I should get for a pair of 1.6's ?
I designed my MMG wood frames to be covered with a MG12 sock. So all I plan on doing are the pole piece slots and cross braces. The Cascade uses thin sheet metal on one side, wouldn't want that to get anywhere near the sock material.
The mylar side (which is now in the front) won't have any, I want to keep the front wave as clean as possible.
I have had an (evidently) harder than usual leaning curve with this stuff, have found myself ordering extra packs from PE repeatably. So give yourself plenty of time, light, and extra Cascade, and you should be fine.
BTW, in an earlier post I went on about using a paper trimmer to cut the Cascade, but later edited the recommendation. Stick with a cutting board jig.
Thanks John ...........
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