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In Reply to: RE: Jvb, that's the first calculator I used in setting up my MultiMag prototypes! posted by JBen on September 23, 2010 at 23:36:20
"MultiMag842T cable"...is that like patent pending?...jk:^). Sounds like quite the recipe, someday I will try it.I haven't done any of the braided recipes for teflon cat 5, using it straight out of the box is just a simple and quick way to have 15-gauge wire with 24 gauge twisted strands, easy to try the bundles twisted together or "shotgunned" seperated. I do have some rolls of 16-24 gauge mag wire to try out later, after the mods and room treatments are done.
Now that I have my power amp in between the speakers, my cable runs are < 4' long, which should help also.
I have used magnet wire in the past, the only negative is removing the varnish can be a pita. The best way I found so far is to just burn it off with a blob of solder, but that only works with the small gauge stuff. If one had a nice solder pot, that would work better. Plus I was always worried about the cat tripping over the thin wire (had it on elevators).
I know when I was running single driver speakers with a 3 watt tube amp, single 24 gauge runs of cat 5 (which is the de facto recommendation of that crowd), or magnet wire did make a BIG difference in smoothing out the fostex drivers.
Edits: 09/24/10 09/24/10Follow Ups:
I keep finding that straight, unbraided solid wire(s) do(es) better. The best Cat5 we made was also that way. Not as good as Magwire but clearly better than Monster XP-something.One of the Cat5 recipies we tried braided several (whole) Cat5 wires. It was the worst sounding cable ever. It ate up the top end to such an extent that it seemed as if an equalizer had notched off frequencies above 10khz.
The other repeatable thing here is that, IMAGING, is better sustained by thicker cabling. However, thicker cable is not easily made into great top-end producers. That seems to be the point at which bundling thin multi solid-cores (keeping their indivudual insulation) does much better. Again, with no braiding.
I suspect that the type of insulation on Magwire is somehow helping. This was surprising to me: I can't measure inductance but measured capacitance on MM842T is nil compared to other cables tried here (except the other MultiMags, the 26ga and the 12ga solid copper electric wire).
Edits: 09/24/10
J,
The other repeatable thing here is that, IMAGING, is better sustained by thicker cabling. However, thicker cable is not easily made into great top-end producers. That seems to be the point at which bundling thin multi solid-cores (keeping their indivudual insulation) does much better. Again, with no braiding.
I am not sure that this is an accurate conclusion. Sure I bet you heard it this way. But I think it has more to do with vibrations than being thicker. Said another way, if you use the thin wire AND treat for vibration, the imaging is great, but it can suffer if you dont treat for it. The multirun thicker cable you made is naturally better at handling vibrations because of its mass construction and teflon....
Think about that conclusion in light of one strand of magwire vs that monster cable you mention. Which one has better imaging???
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
Hey Johnvb,
That is a good point about the insulation. IMHO a solder pot is a must, though I have made complete sets with sandpaper. No way I would make some magwire cables without the solder pot after having used one.
Here is a cat proof magwire speaker cable:
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No one here remembers the bending of our minds
One of these days I'll score one of those pots, but they are kind of pricey.
Maybe diy one?
J,
Here is a link for an inexpensive one that should do the trick for magwire.
There is a more expensive one that is 400w too, both fairly affordable.
Anyone know what makes one of these usable for lead free solder?? Does on need a certain wattage??
No one here remembers the bending of our minds
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