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I'm in the process of building some nice oak stands and back frames for bracing as the first step for my 1.6QRs,, was following the thread on looking for a better fuse and holder or just bypassing it,,
curious just what I would hear with the better fuse and holder or just bypassing it all together,, certainly not afraid to do the bypass,,
run my maggies at about 78 on the shack meter,, what power level really blows them when the fuse is not in-line and are they still safe for the loud impact sounds on the newer movies,,??
appreciate your direction,,
Derry
common sense is not common
Follow Ups:
Since white noise blew out my center channel fuse twice, and i shorted out the fuse on a 1.6, i would not suggest removing the fuse regardless of what ppl say. i did however replace the fuse with a totally different solid state fuse, pezo i blieve, which works perfectly and improves the sound a bit. check my prior posts regarding the part.. forget it now.
Go for it!
I removed the fuses of my T4A's more than 12 years ago.
Any hints of compression in loud passages diminished greatly, as well as loudness gradations at muted levels became quite a bit clearer.
Then, after switching to an active x-over for the bass without any passive component between the amp and the driver, dynamic shadings at both ends of the scale became even more palpable.
your talking me into it,,
will to bypass the right side and listen for the differences,,
I'll report my findings after several days listening,,
thanks all
Derry
common sense is not common
well that took less than five minutes of listening to convince me,, both speaker fuses are now bypassed,,
played a Linda Ronstadt & Dolly Parton vocal with only the right speaker fuse bypassed and could hear the difference between them immediately,, thought it may be an error as my hearing drops off in the high 12K area but after moving back and forth four times there was a difference,, highs are certainly smoother for my ears,, just offered cleaner and improved sound,,
thanks for the easy arm twisting to convince me,,
Derry
common sense is not common
Dare I say that the highs are more "ribbon like" without the ribbon resonances that sometimes can be heard. Next up, find the value of the iron core inductor on the bottom end planar and replace it with an equivalent air core type. Surely someone here knows the value, or you can check with Magnapan. The differences you will hear will be on the same scale.
Careful with a new inductor. Lower DCR, from the stock 0.4ohms will change the crossover frequency. Personally, I'd not do that without more knowledge.
Someone out there with simulation software or who can 'do the math' may want to comment on this.
That being said, the main advantage of an aircore are 2x. Higher current capacity and it won't saturate at higher powers.
Also, if you consult some of the inductor design calculators, you can design an inductor with the same number of layers as turns per layer. This makes a perfect 'square' cross section inductor. Going thru several iterations, I managed to get to 0.38ohms using 13ga wire....If I remember correctly. This is the one I'd build or have built. Pot it in epoxy and give it a couple hours in the oven and you should be golden. I preheat to the lowest temp, shut it off and let it be. I did something similar to slot car armatures back in the day.
Too much is never enough
...previous post where I stated: “This past week I’ve removed the fuses on my 1.6 – everything within the soundstage seems to be better defined” this is indeed quite true however the fuse bypass can’t be credited ... let me explain.
On Saturday finally opened the connection plates to bypass fuses – to my surprise the fuses had been already bypassed albeit slightly different configuration that I'm still not comprehending fully ( see link below ) - regardless I’ve been fuseless over two years - Placebo at its best? At the time fuses were removed from the holders major tweaking was performed on speaker/chair placement – the critical/controversial tweak was perhaps going from a 3° back tilt to a 5° forward tilt plus chair fussing - the improvement in sound as described arrives from placement - the fuse tweak in this case was a given but was never told ☺
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Most people don't know what they want... but they're pretty sure they haven't got it. ©
"the critical/controversial tweak was perhaps going from a 3° back tilt to a 5° forward tilt plus chair fussing - the improvement in sound as described arrives from placement"
The forward tilt is also recommended by Jim Smith in his book Get Better Sound . It work's for me. I'm a big fan of Jim's approach to setup. Have you read his book?
Maggies, because you can never be too thin!
Mark
Jim’s book was prime motivator in aligning center of panels to seat height.
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Most people don't know what they want... but they're pretty sure they haven't got it. ©
Edits: 09/28/10 09/28/10
nt
Maggies, because you can never be too thin!
Mark
Unless you are into large scale orchestral music or are a head banger you'll probably never have blown the fuse. Have you? If not, bypass it altogether. You'll be glad you did as the presentation will be more grain free.
Derry,
My initial comments on the HiFi Tuning SilverStar fuses are below.
I have since replaced the fuse in my active crossover and would recommend that also, right up there with the CD Player and tweeter fuses.
Regards,
Steve
This past week I’ve removed the fuses on my 1.6 – everything within the soundstage seems to be better defined – if there was a pictorial step by step I might attempt removing the fuse holder and go with what is recommended – a little hesitant without the steps with pictures. ☺
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Most people don't know what they want... but they're pretty sure they haven't got it. ©
I just bypassed, gave me a cleaner sound
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