Planar Speaker Asylum

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Planar Speaker Asylum

RE: Setup

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In Reply to: RE: Setup posted by RickeyM on July 31, 2010 at 19:29:57

I 'member the tweak, but no specifics...
Can you refresh what's left of my memory?

thanks in advance.
Too much is never enough

Follow Ups:

RE: Setup - JBen 00:53:12 08/01/10 (6)
I was just thinking the same thing as DrChaos. From factory, they come MylarFront. So, perhaps they had been modified to MylarBack later? That would imply that they were framed per PGs formula, which does turn them around.

While experimenting on my MMGs by turning them around to MylarBack -- which I did not really like -- I also found that there is a significant boost at the extreme top end. They become brighter but not as defined as with MylarFront. This seems to jive with your own perceptions. See comments and charts in these 2 postings.

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=mug&n=144728

http://db.audioasylum.com/cgi/m.mpl?forum=mug&n=147029

Now, the Razoring tweaks are something else. I am currently testing the Full-Razoring stage on my MMGs. So far, this is a great tweak, at least for MMGs. I would think that 1.6s would benefit just as much from it. I strongly encourage you to try it because it is cheap, easy and reversible. You can find the "how to" here:

Razor your mags

Have fun!
- RE: Setup - josh358 11:03:21 08/01/10 (1)
  Great and useful measurements! As were your earlier comparisons.
  
  Whatever the relative virtues of the two orientations, I assume that Magnepan is going to tune the response of the speakers to whichever orientation that they're using. So it would surprise me if reversing the drivers would result in a net improvement in the speakers' stock configuration.
  
  Of course, that's not to say that mylar back won't work better in some listening rooms, or at some angles, etc. Just that if someone is building new frames, it seems to me that they should try it out before committing to the change.
  - RE: Setup - JBen 12:08:47 08/01/10 (0)
    "Just that if someone is building new frames, it seems to me that they should try it out before committing to the change. "
    
    Precisely what I believe.
    
    The sound that "I like" is not my gospel. Helping the rest of the gang here to find "that sound" which pleases each, respectively, is.
    
    We just need to share and inform to the best of out ability.
- RE: Setup - pictureguy 10:15:36 08/01/10 (3)
  WOW, I read parts of your other posts, JBen.
  Surprise! I found the Mylar front to the the most forward in the highs. I'll fire up the stereo in a few minutes and put on some female vocals. That should help me hear any of the extended highs you speak of and apparently measured.
  
  OH, were your measures near-field or back in the room?
  
  Oh, well. Glad you enjoy your setup and experiments.
  
  I will be starting a path to a reframe pretty shortly here. Woodworking class starts in 3 weeks.
  Too much is never enough
  - RE: Setup - JBen 13:39:19 08/02/10 (0)
    Sorry, I missed this one earlier. The measurements are with the microphone aiming at the center, between speakers, from the position where my head is when I listen. Aimed direct at the MMGs from the same position (about 11ft away) do not vary much with this microphone and in this particular room.
    
    I have never done the same with 1.6s. While my MMGs always did this top end emphasis when testing MylarBack configuration, I would have to measure 1.6s to "know".
    
    BTW, I don't think voices will easily tell this. However, any half-decent SACD player playing a well-recorded violin section should promptly do it. So did some clean orchestral LPs when I borrowed a friend's turntable last year. At least, via my line-level crossed tweeters, which get driven directly by power amp stages.
  - Powermatics are excellent, but a used Delta Unisaw is a good choice too, just add an Incra Fence. - cfb 11:56:59 08/01/10 (1)
    Apologies for the off topic;
    Definitely read �The Bandsaw Book� by Lonnie Bird, ISBN #1561582891
    In bandsaws, Powermatics are better than the Deltas. Vibration is the issue with getting a good cut the industrial models have it all over the consumer products here. You can get by with a low cost Ridgid bandsaw around $400 at Home Depot but will need to add an aftermarket ball bearing guide and fence which pushes the price up to about the same as a good used industrial bandsaw but then workspace may be an issue? The industrial stuff does eat up the floor space.
    Best of Luck.
    - RE: Powermatics are excellent, but a used Delta Unisaw is a good choice too, just add an Incra Fence. - pictureguy 12:13:01 08/01/10 (0)
      My intent for the time being is to use the schools equipment. They'll teach me right, too!
      I appreciate any and all inputs on tool purchases, but currently have no plans to 'tool up'.
      
      I have a 6 1/2" skillsaw that is older than you are, probably. Also, a 1/2" mall drill of the same vintage. My old jig saw, is an original Swiss Made 'Scintilla' which was bought out by Bosch and uses the same blade attachment as current tools.
      My 'new' power tools include a 3/8" Makita and a jigsaw of the same make. maybe 15yrs ago?
      
      No table saw or drill press.
      Too much is never enough
RE: Setup - RickeyM 19:44:41 07/31/10 (0)
Do a search on "Razor". You'll find plenty ;^)

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