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In Reply to: RE: Get yourself one of these... posted by kenpeter on September 06, 2007 at 21:43:33
Get a halfway decent circular saw and build or buy a sawguide. While tablesaws are nice there is nothing they can do that a circular saw can't with the right accessories. I purposely built a couple of my project prototypes with only a circular saw just to be sure it could be done. It took longer than with a tablesaw, but there was no sacrifice in accuracy.
Follow Ups:
a decent router.
For a guide, I use aluminum angle [or rec tube] and good C clamps....for both.
Later
D
Mitering with wood rasp and pull saw is slow.
Fortunately the K15 doesn't have many miters.
Not even starting any horn sub project until
I have a better way to miter with accuracy.
Try to borrow a circular saw for when I do.
Or perhaps I can find a used one at pawn if
its not too beat up.
K
You're doing this project with a hand saw!? I salute you! I would'nt want to arm wrestle you for beers following completion of two cabs ; ) Anyway, same advice as above. You're wasting your time with a dull hand saw, a sharp blade will cut 5 times faster than what some would consider "not that sharp, but useable". You can cut miters with a hand saw (my grandfather did) with a blade guide clamped to both sides of the panel, but I guarantee you will loose interest very quickly with a dull hand saw. Don't even consider a used circular saw which the seller won't let you plug in and run. If the bearings sound sloppy, or the motor is spiting fire, don't buy it.
You'll have forearms like Popeye when you're done!
Paul
I think there are only 4 unavoidable miters... 21 inches apiece.
I am not doing any other cuts with the pull saw. I have a router
and a 1/4 inch carbide bit for making straight cuts. Course I do
have to clamp a straight edge to the wood to use for a guide.
I may or may not have 45 and 30 deg router bits somewhere. Need
to dig around and find that set. Those are the only angles I am
needing.
Could build the K15 without any miters if I had a can of bondo.
But I didn't spend extra for birtch to go and slop bondo on it.
If it takes some extra hand labor, thats fine...
At the very least, if you're doing this on a budget, you should be able to get a cheap skil circular saw at walmart or HD for $30 or less assuming you have the space to use it. Mine's lasted for the past 5 years.
Build an even cheaper sawboard such as this http://members.aol.com/woodmiser1/sawbd.htm and you should be good to go for most purposes (at least that's what I use for all my projects). HD usually has some waste cuts of masonite and pine which you should be able to pick up for not much. If you can spare $15 more now, or in the future, consider getting a reasonably better blade such as this one that I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00008WQ2H/ref=sr_1_olp_2/102-9143726-9099304?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1189261134&sr=1-2
An alternative solution for trimming boards to identical dimensions is to align the boards and then use your router and a flush trim / template bit on them.
ot - how do you like table tuba vs other horn and sub which are ~30Hz?- like to see outdoors harmonic distortion with various woofer
Hi Freddy,
Well, it goes LOW and LOUD, even positioned in 1/4 space, for a 11 x 14 room, .. watching war of the worlds where the alien thingy emerges, .. the whole room was creaking and shaking with the sub-30Hz low freq. effects even after i turned the sub way down. I still need to add another brace (one mouth brace shifted during glue up and is currently stuck askew) .My other horn sub (auto-tuba) had a bit more "punch" but less going on below 35Hz . It was also somewhat less efficient, running with the same 8" driver. Better for SOME music, as the TT can sometimes overload MY room with bass and get a bit boomy (still need to find a plate amp and play with crossover settings to counteract it's rising response, as I only have the lousy 100Hz on my HT receiver for now). For HT though, NO contest at all. The TT is downright scary.
Hope that helps
good - did you figure a way to make driver access and possible swapping easy? -- bought file from Bill but my drive crashed and cutter never cuts.
which 8" are you using? one 8" tested by JL in AT seemed to have high HD but I'm not sure if he did the test right
this type horn should be able to be made wider for some larger driver and work well - - anyone try a TT12?
I used the recommended el cheapo MCM 2421 ( http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog_name=MCMProducts&category_name=1000210&product_id=55-2421 )with a decent sized magnet. I didn't bother making the adapter plate to fit HL10a because I don't need the output. I'm not sure if a 12" can be shoehorned into the driver cavity.
Someday, I MIGHT build a tapped horn if I'm convinced that my shiva 12" will work in it.
what thickess plywood did you use? - can the driver be removed easily or is it entombed? - - how is it on pipe and electric organ? I don't play those genre loud- - before I lost Bill's TT pdf, I gave TT a whirl on AJ-Horn - does it look much like my sim up to 200Hz? is the little MCM pretty linear? (I have USC1 parked as too much HD for me -HD "thickens" timbre)
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