108.225.228.14
In Reply to: RE: Loudspeaker cabinet material and sound of each . Cabinet builder ?? posted by tjnailit on October 30, 2012 at 15:00:51
I'd suggest that once you have an inert enclosure, it won't matter much what it is made from.
Too much is never enough
Follow Ups:
Hi, i am new on the forum and to me if you use plywood it should be 3/4 inch. Around 19mm marine plywood birch is good,me my speaker are big old speaker 42inchx18inchx17inch deep made from presswood 3/4 cover with Formica very good as damper no vibration but the most important they have to be brace very Well inside from back to front baffle and side to side with dowel or square peg 3/4x3/4 Well glue to remove vibration like on the larger section of panel like it happens. My speakers go down to 16 Hz transmission line and i put my hand on the baffle and on the side when i listen heavy music and i can almost not feel vibration so this is very good. Yvan
Inert isn't always the solution and you need A LOT of really STIFF material to create an inert enclosure.
The last speakers I built are 22mm at the thinnest spot and 90mm at the thickest with the 22mm areas in the minority. A change from the test MDF box to birch plywood made a huge difference for the better. When going for the resonating approach of enclosure building or open baffles the type of wood used plays an even bigger role. I go for sitka spruce or pine plywood here.
MDF sucks at everything. Speakers, turntable plinth, you name it.
resonating and inert are, of course, two opposites.
I'd agree, in general, about MDF being awful stuff. Everyone who reframes their panels with real wood reports improvement over the MDF which comes stock.
IMO, clever design trumps sheer mass. By that I mean....Sure, you could use 90mm of birch ply or whatever floats your boat. However, I'm reasonably certain I could design and execute a panel of equal stiffness with far less material and weight.
I'm also personally not a fan of resonating box enclosures. At least when the box itself resonates...not the contained volume. It would seem to impart a coloration at the resonant frequency. For a one-off? Maybe...just maybe, you could get away with it. For a production speaker? Problematic.
Too much is never enough
Hi, I am absolutely with you. Just using mass to cure everything is plain stupid and a game of luck. I didn't use the 90mm parts for rigidity. I did some "acoustic room tuning" to the inside of the enclosure that works much better with my speakers than furious attacks of wadding. With stacking of wood sheets in some areas a wall thickness got to 90mm.
If I want the ultimate stiff, non-resonant enclosure I'd use an engineering trick and tension the cabinet walls. Say use 32mm ply, drill some holes through parallel walls, stick a threaded rod through and tighten the rods. Tight.
For a shelf speaker I'd use 2 10mm rods through the sidewalls and one 10mm rod through top/bottom.
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: