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After owning my M3 Signature preamp and installing several upgrades I thought that I would post my experiences here. Many of the upgrades are mentioned elsewhere in this forum as they relate to the M3 and/or any unit with an M2 power supply. Other forums have info on the more universal types of upgrades. Many thanks go out to AA members and other forum posters who give up their time to post their experiences to the general benefit of the hobby. Without them it would be difficult to get the info necessary to avoid mistakes whether financial, electrical or just wasting time.
FYI, I did not "tube roll", try other caps (other than original), or go through the tortuous trial and error and break in required for a step by step testing of other alternatives. I just read what others have posted here and at other forums on the net as well as experiences from personal friends to try and get the best choice made and installed. I do not have the patience for that so I tried to get the best choice made the first time. And of course, YMMV!
My system consists of:
LadyDay 300b amps (modified with V-Caps and using Emission Labs 300 BXLS tubes
A/N DAC Signature Edition
NorthStar Transport
Bastanis Apollo Speakers (about 98db sensitivity)
Cables are from Bastanis and VH Audio
I will list the modifications in order according to their overall effectiveness without regard to cost.
1. V-Caps for coupling caps in the output section (.1uf)The original AN copper caps failed during break in prompting me to go on a search for a replacement. I installed replacement AN caps and used them for a few months before changing to the V-Caps. The V-Caps will open up the entire presentation of music. I don't want to spend a lot of time on the differences but they are stark. Saying anything more would be knocking the AN product which is not my intent at all. Without these installed however, you may get diminished returns on any other upgrades down the list.
2. Mundorf M Tube Caps in the power supply. I just put these in and have 125 hours on them. These replace the 68uf caps on the board. I was not prepared for the difference these make. I thought I was past the "revelation" period of upgrades but I was wrong. These are incredible additions to the modifiers list of weapons to wring out the best in a circuit. The increase in soundstage openness and the sense of reality simply amazed me.
3. Output tube upgrade. Again, lots of info as to choices out there. I settled on Tung Sols.
4. DACT Atttenuator. Replacing the original unit and bypassing the balance control will add clarity and detail to the music. It just gets more dust off of the image. If you want a balance control, the cheapest way to go is to get two mono units.
5. Upgrade rectifier tubes. Again, one can read up on the possibilities here. I bit the bullet and purchased the Bendix. Surprising amount of benefit here as well.
6. Upgrade the film type caps in the power supply. I settled on Mundorf Silver/Oil caps. They give me a little more punch and clarity. A good price performance upgrade IMO.
7. Sound deadening the case and "TipToes" for isolation. See attached picture. A wood case is not that easy but the tiptoes setup is not too difficult. One can apply Dynamat on the top part of the case to reduce vibrations on lieu of a case.
8. Grounding re-route. See one of my responses to a question about this on my post regarding the M Tube cap not too long ago. Really lowers the noise floor especially on sensitive speakers. There are older posts on this in this forum which is where I got some of the ideas.
9. Mapleshade Silclear. I used this on the RCA connections and the tube pins on this unit and throughout my system. Very cheap and worthwhile upgrade IMO and IME.
10. Tube dampers. Not much difference here but it could be because of the other vibration control measures that I have used.
In summary; pretty much all of these upgrades result in an increase in openness, clarity, focus, and PRAT which in turn add to the sense of realism from the system. I hope this helps some of you out there as the previous posters have helped me.
Thanks, Tony
Follow Ups:
i recently completed many of same upgrades to M3 & DAC2.1 and fully agree with comments. v-caps essential but need 6-700 hrs to really sing. the mundorf caps made huge improvement. but also good power cables & interconnects essential I made diy power & fine silver i/c from vh audio. also recently installed silver digital interface transformer in DAC and was very surprised at difference - more detail and brighter sound - the rather "dark" sound of mono's completely gone. will try the Mapleshade Silclear sounds interesting.
Very nice driguy,
Your upgrades are along the same lines as what I use in our custom built units right down to the custom wood face plates. It's funny to see your DAC in the wood chassis as this is exactly what I have going on in our wood machine shop right now!
I obviously agree with all your upgrades. The M-TubeCaps are exceptional in the power supply and the V-Caps are a no-brainer although I use them throughout including the power supply.
I curently have a few custom Audio Note preamps along with a custom DAC 2.1 with all the upgrades running.
How much time do you have on your preamp after all upgrades completed. Trust me when I say you will reach sonic nirvana after about 600 hours. It will take this long for the V-Caps to mature completely.
Again, nice work and nice system!
Bill"Build your system for yourself not the critics"
Thanks Bill,
I have at least 1000 hours on the V-Caps in the DAC and the Preamp. The latest changes other than the M TubeCaps also have at least 200 hours on them. The TubeCaps have about 150 hours now. Even right out of the box they were better but after 75 hours they were pretty close and after 125 most of the improvement seems to be there. Not too bad of a break in compared to V-Caps!
Yesterday I ordered another pair of TubeCaps for the DAC. Currently Parts Connection has a sale on everything. I ordered a pair of Deuland crossover caps for my speakers. I have had the Deulands in for about 25 hours and they are a definite improvement over the Jupiter caps I had in but for the money, well I will have to reserve judgment on that until I get about 100 hours on them. I hope that when the caps for the DAC arrive I get even half of the improvement I experienced with the M3.
I like your motto, "Build your system for yourself not the critics". Unfortunately the most popular issues of Stereophile are the "recommended components" compilations. Personally I think it says a lot about how choices are made, but hey, that's a whole different subject. BTW, thanks for your response to my query about the TubeCaps that I posted not too long ago. It helped me get enough info to give them a try.
Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony,
Great to hear you are able to rack up the hours and experience what these products are capable of. Sounds like you are at a point of experiencing their full potential.
".....BTW, thanks for your response to my query about the TubeCaps that I posted not too long ago. It helped me get enough info to give them a try...."
I am glad you are happy with the recommendation. I also run a full array of M-TubeCaps in my DAC and the difference is just as noticable as it was in the preamps. I did a lot of 'experimenting' with these products to find just the right recipe and the TubeCaps gave me everything we were looking for in the power supply. I don't know if you bypassed yours but it does make a difference. IMHO.
Keep me posted on your thoughts with the TubeCaps in the DAC!! Happy listening.
Bill"Build your system for yourself not the critics"
Can you tell me the type of bypass caps and the value? Again, Thanks for the info.
Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony,
This is where you start getting all kinds of different opinions. So I will only speak of what I use and prefer. As I have mentioned in other threads, The Mundorf TubeCaps are exceptional poly caps on their own. What I use as a bypass is a .01uF - .22uF (.10uF as a norm) V-Cap Telon or SoniCap Platinum Teflon unit. Going larger would not hurt anything but I am not sure the additional cost would benefit you as much (plus the .47uF Teflon units are huge capacitors and are costly).
Just be sure to secure the bypass capacitor's lead as close to the main capacitor as possible. The Mundorf TubeCaps have very short leads, about 1/2" and this is where I attach the bypass units.
There are those who will tell you that a bypass is not needed in this application so I will leave that up to you as I am not hear to ignite a debate rather voicing [my] personal preferences.
Bill"Build your system for yourself not the critics"
wow! very nice pre-amp you have now.
If you add them all up, how much does the pre-amp cost now?
Cheers, Vi
I would guess adding about $700 would do the trick. You can look up the actual prices of each mod to get exact prices though.
Tony
what wood is that you used. looks lovely
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The main body is Black Walnut and the faceplate is spalted maple. Spalted maple is essentially cut from a diseased section of the tree. Not too hard to find but each piece is very unique. Attached is a photo of my DAC. The body is African Padauk while the front is another piece of spalted maple. You can see how varied it can be. Thanks.
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