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"Hum" in M3 Kit

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Hi All,

I recently assembled a AN's M3 Kit, but something wrong with my gear, I can hear clearly %22HUM%22 come out my speaker! As I turn the volume up, I found no increase in the HUM volume, I think that hum sound is come from AC! I follow all the steps from the manual, the ground is screw on the nut near the mains transformer. How can I solve this problem??

If I add 10ohm+0.1uF in GND, can it be solved?

Thanks!

Follow Ups:

RE: "Hum" in M3 Kit - ABliss 08:52:13 05/20/07 (2)
Double check all your connection, and all solder joints.
Also make sure that you did not leave off any GND wires, I think about 3 or 4 goes to that post, plus there is more grounding on the output side.

It has to be something loose or missed, I built the M3 and it has no hum whatsoever, a little crosstalk through the selector switch, but thats it.
Unless maybe you have a bad part or overheated something when soldering.
- RE: "Hum" in M3 Kit - diydiydiy 09:59:41 05/21/07 (1)
  Hi AB,
  
  I've follow all the step from ANKit's manual, also check all the GND wires.
  I used two Goldpt mono volumes...
  The correct GND route should be RCA input(GND) -> Goldpoint(GND) -> M2 Power Supply GND -> M3 Line Stage W36, right?
  - RE: "Hum" in M3 Kit - ABliss 21:23:32 05/21/07 (0)
    DIY, here is a discription of how I did mine, the way you ran yours may be the problem. I hope this helps, let me know. Its part of a writeup I did for Brian.
    
    The wiring could be a little tricky for first timers, but experienced builders shouldn't have a problem. The red and black twisted pair signal output wires from the selector that goes to W1and W2 on the Noble board, goes to the IN positions on the left and right attenuator respectively.
    Next, after you have run the input leads from the RCAs to the selector switch and twisted the black negative sides together as stated in the kit manual, add two lengths of green wire to that twist and solder the group, treat with progold and cover with heatshink. One long enough to reach pass the attenuators, and another one to reach the line board. Now extend one green wire over to the attenuators and using another piece of the green wire, bridge it on to make a Y, solder and heatshink the joint, then connect the ends to the GND position on each attenuator. This replaces the W4 and W5 position on the Noble board.
    The other green wire from the twisted bundle goes to the W42 position on the line board.
    You could have also just ran three lengths of green wire from the twisted bundle, but with five sets of inputs my bundle was already too big.
    Now connect the left and right atttenuator outputs to the W41 and W43 positions on the line board repectively. The manual says to use the twisted black and white pair, but here in my picture its the black and yellow pair
    
    AB.

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