Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

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Re: Questions for jcarr

203.216.2.186

Posted by jcarr on November 22, 2000 at 06:26:28

In Reply to: Questions for jcarr posted by Jaybar on November 22, 2000 at 05:33:57:

Jay,

I live in a metric country (Japan), but I would guess that we were using a thickness of maybe 1/4 inch? In this case, thicker is probably better, as the resonant frequency would be higher, but obviously you will need to get longer screws to match.

Either clear or smoked plastic is OK, depending on whether you like the internal appearance of your Spectrals or not.

We only opened up holes for the 4 screws on the sides, nothing for the front or back. Some tops were made with chamfered holes, and you would use flat-top taper-head (to match the chamfer) hex screws, but if you can find button-head stainless-steel hex screws, straight holes are fine, too. In practice, chamfered holes are a little harder to use, as they offer less freedom to move screws around if the plastic shop gets the location of the mounting holes slightly off target. For this application, I would stay away from square-sided hex screws, as their appearance is definitely out of keeping with the Spectrals.

We were using Olander in Sunnyvale for the screws, but I suppose that many other companies make this type of stainless screw. You could also use a Torx - the shape of the head is up to you (just keep all of the original hardware handy in the original box, in case you ever need to ship anything back to Rick Fryer).

Plexiglass will scratch, and so will polycarbonate (but less easily), so if you make any replacement tops, make up some spares at the same time.

BTW, does your DMC-12 have an external power supply box? If it does, you can have fun cooking up a replacement umbellical power cable (the connector is a Switchcraft XLR-type, big and easy to solder to).

G'luck! (not that you need much of it in this case)

regards
jonathan carr

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