Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

Re: A common argument that misses the point

66.222.7.93

Aluminum wiring for residential use is pretty much prohibited these days. And if it isn't, at one point you have to explain that choice to the electrical inspector. Unless he's a stockholder in Alcoa, it's really his decision on any project that's installed by a pro or a homeowner making a structural change (additions, for example). As for all the wiring from me to the station, it's pretty much Al.

>>>funny interlude
I was wiring an outdoor outlet on a second floor porch at my own home. There was some question if a GFI was needed on the outlet by me and the inspector. He paused for a moment and said, "Imagine this... some stranger sitting on your couch, wearing your robe, watching your TV and f*****g your wife because you were too cheap to install a GFI and killed yourself with a set of Christmas lights. You decide."
>>>over

My opinion on high end and/or oversized power cables is clearly influenced by building my own stuff. I typically use a 16 gage wire to feed chip amps, line stages, and crossovers. The wire's first stop is the fuse block and then on to the transformer. I don't exactly know the size of some of the tranny wires but I would be surprised if they are larger than 20 gage. Anyway, how many amperes are we talking about? Three or four in a chip amp? The 16 gage is good for ~20 amps or so. How good is the shielding and grounding of the AC supply in the amp?

If you want to make a LARGE improvement on the AC end of your system, wire your equipment to a sturdy dedicated 10 gage branch circuit that doesn't have fridges, hair dryers, TV's, or Van der Graf generators. Try pounding in another ground rod. This may or may not make an imrovement in the noise floor (could be just another loop or could be the solution).

Does it make sense to wire up a fancy PC and connect to the IEC in the back of the chassis? Not to me. Why not wire directly to fuse and tranny?

Which 110 volt circuit should I attach to? If wiring makes a big difference, then there must be some difference between the 110 circuits, right? There are two of them coming into my house (thus forming the 220 service). Shouldn't one of them be better than the other? How come nobody mentions this but will adamantly state the improvement made by an outlet cover (SS vs. plastic)?

As for power conditioning, this is clearly a different subject than power cables. I have little faith that the type and style of copper conductor provides much conditioning. However, for the prices of some high end power cables, why not go right to battery power or some sort of waveform conditioning apparatus? Buck-boost transformer? I build with X2 class caps on the supply and usually have to fiddle with grounding inside the project.

Lastly, I think my views may be colored by some of the subjectivist statements I have read. There are certainly questions and suggestions of very non-standard wire types for power cables. Correct me if I'm wrong, but Cat5 and Litz have reared their heads in these PC threads. Not speaker or hookup wire, but power cables. At least somebody usually says something before Tabby gets cooked.

"the last three feet" as I stated is, in fact, incorrect. It really is the middle three feet and really doubles the amount of unkown infrastucture between me and "them".

Or maybe I just can't hear anything. Too much 1kW Adcoms and not enough chipamps.


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