Home Tweakers' Asylum

Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ.

Re: Polyester batting substitute

RE 1st batch of Q's: Yes, you have the layering correct, but make sure the higher density board is toward the wall. As for the panel lining, none is best, or the pin perforated second best.

As for gluing fiberglass together, I am not sure if carpet glue will work, I have had reports of folks using 3M "77" spray adhesive to good effect, the secrect with this kind of adhesive, is to use per directions, using plenty, and letting it partially dry before bonding the fiberglass to a surface.

BTW, I would not glue them to the wall, leave an air space if possible, they will work down to a lower frequency, and provide a more natural balance in the room.

RE 2nd batch of Q's:
The Super Quick & Dirty traps are very non-crtical of density, as long as it is within a certain range. 40 to 80 kg/m3 should do the job quite well.

As for the Gale traps, see:
The problems with steam pipe insulation for bass traps:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/57035.html

http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/6425.html
AND
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/13535.html
AND
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/3771.html

In essence, the density is too high on the steam pipe insulation, and the preformed insulation apparently has to little porosity (too much binder?), for maximum performance. With the pressure mode operation type bass trap (which is the principle behind the Gale traps, as well as my DIY traps, and of course, the orginal retail product from ASC), the main thing is not so much density as it is porosity, the layer of fiberglass provides a pressure flow resistance, and this can be acheived more ideally by compressing material that is not full of binder.


Jon Risch


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