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Classic gear from yesteryear; vintage audio standing the test of time.

I still think

I still think that its going to be very difficult to get this right w/o a lot of removal and reinstalling of the tweeter if you tryu and use fixed value resistors. At most, an LPad will require a single 3/16-1/4 inch hole in the rear of the speaker. Getting the resistance spot on for padding requires listening to lots of different recordings of various linds of music, and even there, a slightly higher output from the tweeter than flat could restore lost highs especially on older recordings. Not only that, you have room acoustoics to deal with. A speaker in a room with lots of carpet and drapes will require a brighter tweeter setting than a room which is mainly sheetrock and wood floors, for example. Even a slight repositioning of speakers could drastically alter the amount of output that sounds right from the speaker. There are a host of room acoustics variables affecting exactly how much output a tweeter should ideally produce relative to a woofer, and you can fine tune with just a simple L-pad at the cost of a single drill hole for the L-pad shaft. That way you can fine tune the tweeter output till the cows come home.Given the fixed resistor route, I can almost guarantee that you will be second guessing what you did on your first, second and third try, not to mention your fourth or fifth try and you are only going to end up frustrated.

I suppose that if you kept the one tweeter that was working ok in the one speaker, you could attempt to make the speaker that you repaired sound as close as possible to the original factory version, but if you try that approach, it would be far easier using an L-pad than installing and reinstalling the tweeter each time with slightly different resistor values. And who is to say that the speaker came from the manufacturer with the tweeter set up to interact perfectly with your particular room..chances are that too is just a tad too bright or dull. You see where this is going.



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