DIY ACOUSTIC TREATMENTS Updated 1-31-2011 by Jon M. Risch, jrisch@strato.netMany audiophiles don't know it, but for the price of one not so fancy interconnect, or about $200 dollars, you can acoustically treat your room with excellent absorbers, including 4 wall panels AND a set of 4 bass traps. A full blown acoustical treatment with floor to ceiling bass traps in front, and 6-8 wall panels, along with some basic diffusion for the rear wall will run around $600, with a significant chunk of that in the retail bargain diffusors. Equivalent cost of the minimal retail options exceed $2,000, and may not work as well. A full blown treatment using retail options may reach $3,500 or more, and will not work any better. Read on for details. Sonex vs. Fiberglass An equivalent thickness of fiberglass (building grade) will perform similarly to Sonex, but with slightly better low frequency absorption. Since fiberglass comes in thicker versions, such as 6 1/2" and 8" thick, you can get correspondingly better LF absorption than 4" of Sonex. So far, so good. But when I tried to find a suitable covering, then I ran into problems! It seems most all fabrics are woven way too tight to allow the sound to readily pass through to the fiberglass! Even some velour that was being sold as "sound absorbent covering" had a large amount of reflectance at high and middle frequencies. It is not just a matter of allowing the sound waves through the cloth and into the fiberglass, but how much of the sound reflects off the surface of the cloth, and back into the room. At middle to high frequencies, many cloths have a fair amount of reflectance, even some speaker grille cloth's. I eventually found a solution and recipe for do-it-yourself sound absorbing panels/coverings: A rock wool panel (these run about 1" thick) for the very back, spaced off the wall/ceiling as much as 6-8 inches (or as much spacing as can be spared, the more the better the LF absorption), then a thickness of fiberglass of any brand (the thicker, the better, use 8" thickness if budget and space permits), then a layer of fairly loose polyester batting (available at fabric stores and Wal-Marts for use in blankets) to provide a protective layer that doesn't adversely affect the absorption of the fiberglass (the entire absorptive layer COULD consist of this material, but it would be cost prohibitive, on the other hand no itch!), and then a layer of burlap as an outer covering. Colored burlap is available in 36" widths from fabric stores and most Wal-Mart's. Light colors work well with the layer of white poly batting just underneath the burlap, although the darker colors are OK. In actual anechoic testing, I found the burlap to have the least reflectance and allow the most absorption by the fiberglass. (Note that speaker grille cloth also works well, but is not as durable or as good at hiding the polyester batting as the burlap). Practically speaking, it works best if a simple, minimal wooden frame is constructed from 1X2's or 1X4's (depending on the thickness of fiberglass), with the rock wool panels glued/stapled to the rear of the wooden frame, with vertical frame members spaced about 14" apart (the width of the fiberglass) and the fiberglass WITH PAPER BACKING stapled at the edges to the middle side edges of the vertical frame members (I usually ran a 10" strip of poly batting down the middle of the strip {roll} of fiberglass between the paper and the rock wool panel, in order to prevent possible flapping paper noises against the rock wool). Then staple the poly batting over the fiberglass, stapling to the vertical frame members (hence the need to adjust the wood depth dimension to the fiberglass), and finally, using brass tacks every 6" to affix the colored burlap along the vertical frame members, and across the top and bottom. These can be on the back along the top and bottom, so brass is not necessary, and cheaper tacks, nails or staples could be used there. If you want to be sure the wooden frame does not reflect too badly, wrap the bonded fluffy polyester batting around and along the side of the wooden frame, and cover this all with burlap too. Some adjustment of spacing between frames may be needed at the two sidemost sections to accommodate this, depending on how you have laid out the burlap and polyester. When this is all finished, you have a nice looking sound absorbing panel with scallops every 14" or so that run vertically, that can be semi-permanently located, but can leave with you as needed. Portable versions with sturdier frames can be built of course, and put on rollers or wheels for adjustable studio or listening room use. DO NOT double up on the burlap layers, as performance suffers! Also, remember to treat the burlap with fire retardant, wear gloves and at least a cheap respirator mask when handling/cutting the fiberglass, and to lightly vacuum the outer burlap surface to get up any loose fiberglass particles. Once covered in burlap with the poly batting layer to prevent fiber or particle escape/contact, these panels provide excellent performance at minimal cost and no health hazard. I have been asked about the need for the rock wool/series 700 panels on the rear of the fiberglass and frame. Are they absolutely necessary? No, but a typical absorbing panel, using 6 1/2" fiberglass AND the rigid panel glued to the rear will be effective down to below 100 Hz. Using only the fiberglass will result in a panel that is good down to around 200 Hz. Wall spacing is important too, if the panels are placed flush against the wall, then effectiveness in the LF can be halved compared to even just 4" of spacing. Recent checks on 700 series pricing and availability has lead to the discovery that, to the consumer, the only size that is readily available is a 2' by 4' panel, in 1", 2" or 3" thickness's. In some area's of the country, rock wool panels are still available, but not everywhere. Due to the cost associated with these smaller panels, I now recommend straight 8" fiberglass for maximum effectiveness at LF, without the rigid panels glued to the back of the frame. If you use at least 6" thickness of fiberglass, then the rock wool/OC panels are not necessary to obtain adequate low frequency absorption. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Rough Costs: NOTE: Costs are strill from 1998, costs at the beginning of this artcle were updated. Fiberglass (faced) - 6" thick, 15" by 39 feet at $12.50 roll Burlap - Dyed, with minimum levels of insect and fire protection, available from Wal-Mart, $1.48 a yard by 36" wide. 1" X 2" white spruce 8 foot long, 92 cents each 1" X 4" white spruce 8 foot long, 98 cents each Polyester batting, bonded fluffy loose pile, approx. 1/2 to 3/4 thickness, 45" wide, $2.17 yard Brass plated nails, approx. 50 for 86 cents #9 Brass Upholstery Nails, 30 for 81 cents Tube Liquid Nails 29 OZ, $4 Tube RTV Silicone Rubber, 10 OZ, $4.50 Staples: $2 for 1,000, 9/16" OPTIONAL: Owens Corning 705 semi-rigid fiberglass panels, 2' by 4', by 1", 12 to a carton for approx. $92, not including S&H. Rough Total for a 4 foot tall by 30" panel: $12.50 each, minimum investment of materials for 4 panels, for $50 total. 4' X 45" panel: $17 each, minimum investment of 4 for $68. Some materials left over. ASC Wall Panels are $398 for eight 2" thick by 8" wide by 48" tall panels, good only down to about 500 Hz. SONEX part 2 RE the Fire Marshall: > >cover it with fabric, nicely down, and tell the fire marshall its a wall > >hanging (a work of art, like a painting- also not fire resistant) and not > >an acoustical treatment. oh ya, and good luck. > > ....a fabric known as FR-701 panel fabric from > Guilford of Maine. It is fire-rated, and acoustically transparent > (for all practical purposes). My experience has been that many fabrics that seem acoustically transparent may not be, and may cause significant reflections as the sound tries to enter the absorbing material. If ASC actually uses the stuff, it might be OK, but remember, many of their products are not designed for 100% absorption, but a controlled amount of reflectance. > Could anyone comment on when it would be appropriate to use the other > versions of (Owens Corning) 700 series panels, such as the 705 which > is 6 lbs. cu.ft. or the 1.58 lbs. cu.ft. for the 701. I gather that > the bass absorption is slightly better the denser the panel. But how > significant a difference between the versions? The higher the density, the better the bass absorption, however, the reflectance goes up proportionately in the mid and high frequencies as the density goes up, with the lightest panels being the best in the highs, and the heaviest best in the lows. For use behind the wall panel absorbers, or as simplified and minimal bass absorbers as outlined below, I recommend at least 705 or 706. When used as the only absorber material, I would use 703 or 704. > I would appreciate suggestions on how to best mount the 2x4' panels to > the wall? Isn't absorption quality best when the panel is tight to > the wall. Are there any good non-permanent solutions? Maximum bass absorption does not occur when almost any absorber is flush against the wall, but is spaced out from the wall by some minimum amount, with better absorption as the spacing increases to some relatively large distance. Many acoustic materials are specified for a minimum spacing of 2" or 4" in order to meet specifications. > Finally, does anyone know where to get specific plans for designing > and building bass traps? Both "The Handbook for Sound Engineers", 2nd Ed. Glenn M. Ballou and 'The Master Handbook of Acoustics", 3rd Ed. by F. Alton Everest have some info on construction details of bass traps. However, the use of classic bass traps, also known as Helmholtz resonators, has pretty much been superseded by broadband resistive bass control ala ASC type tubetraps. Homemade resistive bass traps are not that difficult to make, and can be made almost any reasonable size. > Thanx for the advice, I just might try to make my own based on the cost of > new ASC stuff. I am a little unclear on how you assemble the first panel > you described. Let's see if I got it, build a frame. . .no problem, then > use the rock wool on the rear of the panel. . . no prob. . .but I'm not > sure how you affixed the paper of the fiberglass. It gets stapled to the inner rear edges of the frame partitions spaced roughly 14" apart. When completed, your acoustic sandwich is now, from back to front: Rock wool panel, polyester batting, paper of fiberglass roll, fiberglass, polyester batting, burlap. From side to side: Frame edge, wrapped with tacked down burlap, stapled fiberglass paper, previously described acoustic sandwich, stapled fiberglass paper, tacked down burlap over frame divider at frame spacing (approx. 14" centers), stapled fiberglass paper, acoustic sandwich, stapled fiberglass paper, AND either another frame divider or the other outer edge of the whole frame. This should clear up the construction details for you. Not DIY: RPG has come out with a new inexpensive product called ProFoam. At $50 for a basic set of 6 two foot by two foot contoured foam sheets, they offer those who would rather not DIY an option. Be warned that they are not even close in LF absorption to the DIY panels, as the DIY panels are good down to below 100 Hz when constructed according to recommended thickness and materials, while the ProFoam is only absorbing the midrange on up, from about 500 to 700 Hz on up. This can skew the tonal balance of a room severely, which is usually the problem when a sound absorbing material that is not thick enough is used, or it is used at the wrong locations. For $100, you get twelve 2'X 2' squares, enough to place them doubled up back to back to increase the apparent thickness, and provide some automatic spacing from the walls, which increase the LF absorption down to about 350 Hz. Note that this is still only three patches of absorption 2'X 4' to the side of each speaker and on the back wall between the speakers. If you just can't or won't build them your self, then at least double up on some of the RPG ProFoam's, Level Two for $100. These are plain gray in color, white and colors cost over twice the price. Sold by Audio Advisor, 1-800-942-0220 TUBE BASS TRAPS Bass traps are usually either of the resistive absorption type (ASC tube traps), or of the Helmholtz resonator type. The bass traps described in earlier posts by others do not correspond to either type, and based on the construction described, might be considered more correctly high frequency absorbers and low frequency diffusers (the round shape). While they would provide some benefit, even at low frequencies, they would be much more effective if they were constructed to fully absorb low frequencies as much as possible. Since Helmholtz resonators are very much room and frequency specific, the more general purpose and portable approach would be to roll your own homemade tube traps. These can be built in several different ways. Method #1: Duplicate the ASC tube traps (1st generation). This can be done by doing the following: Obtain some rolls of "hog fence" wire, preferably not rusted. This is the rolls of animal fencing that run about 3 feet wide (it utrns out that 4 feet and five feet tall are also pretty common), and have rectangular openings between galvanized steel wires, with the openings about 3/4" wide by 3 or 4" tall. Chicken wire, the hexagonal looking stuff, is not stiff enough. Decide what size trap you wish to make: you can duplicate the commercial sizes for the approx. same cutoff frequencies, or make an extra-large version to really soak up those low, lows. Realize that sizes over approx. 16 to 18" get unwieldy and more difficult to assemble, and a 16" diameter by 3 foot trap will soak up a lot of bass if properly constructed, to below 80 Hz. Once you have a size, cut out 3 circles of wood from 3/4 plywood or particle board approx. 3 1/2" to 4" smaller than that diameter, and 2 circles of wood that exact diameter. Glue a smaller circle one each to the center of the two larger circles, and keep the 3rd smaller circle for later. Take the relatively stiff "hog wire", cut 1 1/4" from one end, and bend it around the two smaller circles of wood, with the large wooden circles uncovered by wire on the outside, and free at either end, while including the third smaller circle of wood near the middle of the cylinder of wire. The third circle will provide support for the middle of the roll, and allow the fiberglass to be compressed properly without buckling the wire. If making a 4 or 5 foot tall cylinder, then use two internal spacers. These internal support discs need to have holes in them, so as to allow pressure to equalize from one cavity to the other. For a 16" diameter trap, and a nominal support disc diameter of 12.25", two 2.5" holes or one 3.5" hole are the minimum. If you cut out the center so as to leave 3" of wood around the edge of the disc, this would be approx. a 6" hole. Use staples and/or liquid nails to affix the wire grid to the edges of the smaller wooden circles. Now take 6 1/2" thick unfaced fiberglass, and loosely wrap it around the wire grid, with none hanging past the ends of the caps. The fiberglass should be laid in so that none is overlapped, and no gaps are showing. Use adhesive or glue to help seal any gaps, keeping the adhesive away from the surface, and more toward the inside. IN ORDER FOR THE TRAP TO WORK PROPERLY, THE FIBERGLASS _MUST_ ALLOW NO DIRECT AIR LEAKS! In other words, no holes, gaps or seams should be present. Butt the fiberglass up against itself firmly, and make sure it covers the inner circle of wood. Now for the hard part: take another layer of 'hog wire" and wrap/staple glue it around the edge of the larger end circles compressing the fiberglass uniformly between the two wire grid layers. It is this compression of the fiberglass that makes the closed end cylindrical trap so effective. Too much compression, and it begins to reflect the low frequencies partially, too little compression, and it does not fully absorb the bass frequencies. If 8" thick fiberglass is compressed to 2", it starts to be too much compression, and is very difficult to assemble. The outer layer of hog wire can now be covered with polyester batting, stretched around the outside, without any gaps or seams. This blunts the raw edges of the hog wire, and seals the fiberglass fibers inside. Now, if you wish to duplicate the ASC devices, get some very limp plastic film (like the plastic bags dry cleaners use for covering the clothes). Plastic drop cloths for painting are usually thin and limp enough. Place the film on one half side of the now cylindrical assembly, then cover with burlap. If you orient the burlap seam with respect to the partially reflective side (the side with the plastic film on it), you will always know which side is the partially reflective one. Hot melt can be used to seal the burlap seam, or some sort of sewing or stitching used. Burlap can be made fire retardant either by using a commercial fire-retardant chemical treatment, or for DIY, a 1/2 saturated solution of borax or calcium chloride will provide good fire retardancy. Note that dark colored burlap will probably show white streaks from these treatments. For those who are using burlap and wish to fireproof it there is a company called Flameseal (http://www.flameseal.com) in Texas which makes a spray-on product to fireproof fabrics, its approx. $30.00 per gallon. The end result is a 3 foot tall XX" diameter cylinder. The end caps can be finished in Formica, etc., and for height, stack two up. Additional comments and instructions are available at: http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/17498.html on building the full-blown wire fencing versions. 2. Quick and dirty homemade tube traps Obtain some sheets of 1" thick rigid high-density fiberglass panels, or better yet, rock wool panels. If the panels are only medium density, double up on them and size accordingly for the inner/outer panels. Determine a size based on an equilateral triangle (side panels of 24" or smaller recommended, make them sub-multiples of the sheet width, e.g.,24",16",12")and once size is determined, cut the panels to size (these can be 8 feet tall if the panels come 8' by 4', but a full 8 feet will probably be too unwieldy). The shape can be a right triangle so as to fit in a corner better, size the panels accordingly. For a full use of a 48" wide panel, 14' on the sides, and 20" across the hypotenuse. Glue (silicone rubber or liquid nails) these together at the edges forming an equilateral triangle or a right triangle, and cut 3/4" wooden end caps in the appropriate size/shape to cap the ends and glue the triangle of panels to the end caps. To take some of the "edge" off of the acute angles, wrap a single layer of 3/4" minimum loosely spun bonded polyester batting around the fiberglass panels (this also aids HF absorption), and then wrap with fire-retardant treated burlap. If you want some partial reflectance/diffusion, wrap a limp plastic sheet around one corner of the triangle and half way across the two sides. Either one of these will easily outperform the previously posted cardboard tubes filled with fiberglass and covered with carpet, and at a lower cost, providing a broadband absorption over a wide and extended LF range. Recent checks on 700 series pricing and availability has lead to the discovery that, to the consumer, the only size that is readily available is a 2' by 4' panel, in 1", 2" or 3" thickness's. In some area's of the country, rock wool panels are still available, but not everywhere. For quick and dirty DIY bass traps, the 1" thick 705 panels will work, and a carton of 12 panels will make 4 triangular bass traps four feet high, roughly equivalent to 12 to 14" diameter round bass traps made using hog wire. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Rough Costs, based on a 14" outer diameter trap: Fiberglass, unfaced - 6 1/2" thick, 15" wide by 39 feet long approx. $13.50 (Enough for approx. 4 traps, 2 and a half once around strips stacked up) Hog Wire, 14 gauge - 36" by 50 feet, $17 Enough for approx. 6-7 traps Particle Board - 4'X 4' sheet 3/4" $7 (enough for approx. three 14" traps), 4'X 8' $13 enough for 6 traps Polyester batting, bonded fluffy loose density approx. 3/4 to 1" thick, 45" wide, $2.17 a yard. Burlap - Dyed, with minimum levels of insect and fire protection, available from Wal-Mart, $1.48 a yard by 36" wide. Tube Liquid Nails 29 OZ, $4 Tube RTV Silicone Rubber, 10 OZ, $4.50 Staples, 9/16", $2 for 1,000 One small can brown or black paint, $5 Alternative Approach: Owens Corning 705 semi-rigid fiberglass panels, 2' by 4', by 1", 12 to a carton for approx. $92, not including S&H. Rough Total per trap, minimum of 4 14" diameter by 36" high traps, some materials left over: $19 each. Minimum investment approx. $77 for four, with materials left over. Costs to do 6 or 8 is slightly less per, due to better materials usage. ASC Prices: One 11" diameter by 4 foot tall tube trap: $248 retail, four tube traps: $992 Latest Super Quick & Dirty Recipe The triangular versions I outline were just a way to do a quick and dirty version for the less labor inclined and/or impatient amoung us. They are not quite as effective as the round animal fence versions, which duplicate the effects of the retail bass traps quite well. The middle support disc also helps reduce any tendency for an internal resonance developing, and while not strictly necessary for the triangular versions (the panel flexing of the OC panels was a part of their design), it wouldn't really help that much. If one wanted to use the triangular version, then if an internal divider was tacked into place leaving air gaps along the sides, then they would break-up any internal waves, and not keep the panels from flexing. A section of the fiberglass board would do nicely. New Quick & Dirty Recipe Thanks to my less motivated friends, I have a new recipe: buy three rolls of 15" wide fiberglass (virtually any thickness, as the rolls are longer for the thinner stuff, and the total diameter ends up about the same, it can be faced or unfaced) insulation, stack them on top of one another, leaving them in the plastic bags, and wrap burlap or grill cloth around them. For better HF absorption, wrap polyester batting around one side or the entire sides. You can use something like duct tape to hold the three bags of fiberglass together, and to tape the polyester batting into place, etc. How involved you wish to get is up to you. They should be placed in the corners, as for all bass traps. This will work almost as well as the wire fence version in my recipe, at perhaps 70-80% of the bass absortion, with no resonances, or problems. The cost is greater, at about $50 each, if you wrap them in polyester batting, and cover in burlap. However, they can be in the corners in a matter of minutes instead of hours/days, and for a lot less labor. If you only get enough for two in the front corners to start, then you can later use these same rolls to make up wallpanels and the full blown bass traps using the wire animal fencing cylinder versions. If you plan to do this, make sure you get the appropriate number of faced and unfaced rolls, and mix them symmetrically on each side of the room. Additional information on the Super Quick & Dirty versions are available at: http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/general/messages/70817.html -Fire-Proofing- Burlap, or virtually any other cloth can be made fire-retardant by soaking it in a commercial fire retardant sold for the purpose. For those who are using burlap and wish to fireproof it there is a company called Flameseal (http://www.flameseal.com) in Texas which makes a spray-on product to fireproof fabrics, its approx. $30.00 per gallon. If you are interested in a DIY treatment, there are two possible alternatives: borax and calcium carbonate. Borax (get the pure stuff, not with soap) is readily available, and calcium carbonate is the super ice melting salt that comes as little white round balls of salt. The only problem with these is that on dark colored fabrics, they will leave white streaks/residue that is visible in the concentrations needed to be effective. If light colors of burlap are involved, then it is not nearly as much of a problem. Or, you can just use the Guileford fabric, but be aware that it is VERY expensive! A NOTE ON ROCK WOOL (Mineral Fiber) Apparently, rock wool is no longer readily available throughout the country, as the primary manufacturer has quit making it. A near equivalent would be an Owen Corning 706 or 705 panel, which should work almost as well. Owen Corning 700 series panels are now readily available to the consumer only in 2' by 4' size. Cartons of 12 panels in the 1" size. More Details on Taming Room Acoustics ---------------------------------------------------------------- Q: I visualize them as similar to rather thick Roomtunes panels that looks like Vandersteen speakers! Am I right or wrong? A: Essentially. The looks can vary a little, depending on the type of burlap, the colors, the tacks/nails/studs used to tack down the burlap, etc. Other cloth than burlap can be used, but at a possible (very likely) performance penalty. Speaker grille cloth probably wouldn't be too bad, and would allow some choice in weave and colors over the burlap. Q: How tall should the panels ideally be? I understand that the width is about 15" w/c corresponds to the width of the fiberglass. A: For use as spot absorbers, the panels can run the height of the wall, or as a minimum, only the middle 4 feet. I would recommend a minimum of two widths, or about 30" wide to be as effective as possible. Q: Is cotton batting a good replacement for polyester? A: No. Cotton batting is usually too dense, and will cause excessive reflectance. It also tends to settle, lump up and in general, become a pain to deal with. Q: How many panels are needed to effectively treat the whole room? Is it necessary to fill the entire backwall with them? I certainly hope not! A: It is not necessary to fill the room with them, or even the back wall. Look at ads for Roomtunes, ASC tubetraps, etc. or contact these companies and request their literature, being sure to ask about actual use of the product in a room and placement details. Q: How should these panels be placed? I know they should be at least 6-8" away from the wall but where behind the speakers? On the space between the speakers? On or near the corners? A: The usual minimum game plan is to use a 30" wide by 48" tall by 4" deep or more panel directly behind each loudspeaker (all panels spaced from 2" to 6" off the walls), then one each on the mirror points on the side walls. The mirror point on the side walls is the point where a mirror flat against the wall reflects the speakers image to you at your normal seating location. Two panels for the rear wall IN THE CORNERS if not using tube trap type bass absorbers, angled at 45 degrees. These rear corner panels would be most effective if they were floor to ceiling, and they could be only 15" or so wide, instead of 30". Next step up in treatment would involve a pair of panels on the ceiling at the mirror points, possibly a center panel (normal size) in the center of the rear wall. If the floor is hard with no carpeting, then removable/portable panels on the floor at the mirror points (spaced appropriately) would help a lot. These can be smaller sizes too, about 15" wide by 2 feet for better portability and ease of storage when done listening. DIY resistive bass traps would be a third step, with at least one 3 foot tall cylinder of at least 10-12" diameter in each corner. Better bass smoothing and absorption can be had if they are made 14-16" in diameter, and two are stacked in each corner, or at least two stacked in the front. Anything beyond this requires a true acoustic analysis of the room as a whole, including all the surfaces, etc. Q: Since I have small monitor type speakers that have no deep bass to speak off (and no serious bass problems) that means that I can get away with closer spacing of the panel against the wall, and relatively thin panels say 3-4" thick only for midrange/treble absorption especially at the front wall (wall closest to listening position). Is this correct? A: Yes. Use of less than full band wall absorbers will shift the tonal balance though, and make the room/speakers sound warmer. This may not be a bad thing in your case. Q: How can a panel of this size be placed half way up the wall, 4 or so inches away from it. Special hardware? Long, beefy bolts with spacers? A: You can easily add legs to the rear of the frame, of sufficient height to get them off the floor, some 1X1's or 1X2's, and then glue/nail some 1X2's with the desired length for wall spacing to the back/side of the frame. See ASCII diagram below. Wall | | | |4"_ | |X| |_|X| | |X| | |X| | |X| | |X| | |X| | |~ | | | | | |<2' leg |_|__ Floor-About Diffusors- RPG started it, SysDevGrp carried the concept to different price points and Auralex made it even more affordable. Some acoustics experts insist that a soundly designed listening room must contain some scientifically designed sound diffusors. QRD (Quadratic Residue Diffusors) diffusors were introduced by RPG, then the Art Diffusors by SysDevGrp, and then T'Fusor by Auralex. Placing a diffusor array at either the speaker end, middle of the wall, or the listening end, middle of the wall can sometimes make a room bloom into a really great listening environment. For a retail solution, Auralex has the T-Fusor for about $220 (includes S&H) for four 2 foot by 2 foot panels that are 5 1/2" deep. This will create a 4 foot by 4 foot diffusor area on a wall, and would be considered a minimum amount of diffusion to provide any real improvements. They are plastic molded sheets, meant to have the rear filled in with fiberglass or polyester batting to combat the hollow plastic sound that would otherwise result from a thin sheet of plastic. Careful use of some of the expanding foam sold for filling/insulating gaps and cracks would probably be superior to these loose fillings for stiffening and damping the plastic walls of the diffusor. For comparison, a 4X4 foot square of QRD diffusor would run over $700, and a 45X45 inch square of Art Diffusor, Series E runs $500. ************************************************************ Other related posts at AA: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/447013.html covers fabric, and cheap retail wall panels. Covers the differences between the original and the SQ&D traps. http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/141939.html Common Problems In DIY Bass Trap Construction: http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/29191.html the original post where I reveal the latest Super Quick & Dirty easy bass traps recipe: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/15737.html and petew's post where he goes into detail on what he did. http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/general/messages/70817.html http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/17498.html PeteW's directions of building classic bass traps w/wire. Andrew Chasin's description of his build-up: http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/110285.html Comments on effectiveness of JR DIY Wall Panels: http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/122117.html How to measure the effect of a bass trap: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/rives/messages/1041.html Pic of Wall Panel: pics and diagrams. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze22yzp/id4.html http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/view.mpl?UserImages=31994&session= Pics of Bass Trap construction http://geocities.com/waycoolaudio/basstraps ************************************************************* Copyright Jon M. Risch 1997, 1998, 2011 all rights reserved,except transmission by USENET and like facilities granted. Any use or inclusion in print or other media are specifically prohibited. The informational content is not warrantied in any way or form, and any use of said content are at the reader's own risk, the author shall not be held responsible in any way for any damages or injuries arising from the content of this post. Common safety practices are encouraged at all times. Do not fold, spindle or mutilate. *********************************************************************
Jon Risch
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