![]() |
Tweakers' Asylum Tweaks for systems, rooms and Do It Yourself (DIY) help. FAQ. |
|
In Reply to: Solder or Nut-Tighten / Copper & Aluminum posted by Craig S on November 11, 2008 at 06:34:17:
Hi Craig,I'm a regular at the Planar Asylum. My MG3.6Rs used tinned copper wire. I replaced the wire with Goertz MI1 and replaced the speaker wire terminals with Vampire BP-HEX binding posts. Using Goertz MI1 let me cut spades directly out of the wire using a 5/16" hole punch. I plan on applying a thin coat of Silclear to prevent the bare copper from oxidizing.
If you don't want to use different wiring, I think you should replace the binding posts (Vampire BP-HEX posts work with the stock punchouts) and wrap the solid core jumper wire around the internal post (clockwise) and TIGHTEN down. :)
Hope that helps,
Nils
Edits: 11/12/08 11/12/08
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Follow Ups
- RE: Solder or Nut-Tighten / Copper & Aluminum - Neuro 17:08:42 11/12/08 (1)
- RE: Solder or Nut-Tighten / Copper & Aluminum - Craig S 11:50:24 11/13/08 (0)