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Re: Help with speaker crossover selection

68.231.140.144

There is plenty of help @ Hi-Efficiency Loudspeakers Asylum. Be aware of this : unless you DIY you will have to live with the inevitable compromises and outright BAD quality and designs endemic to commercial products. Over 30 years ago I was running a pair of 10" sealed-box Utah 3-way speakers which I was quite smitten with sonically. I read a DIY article in High Fidelity magazine that stated that the biggest bang you can get for your buck was to upgrade your speakers' X/Os. I opened the Utah's and almost fell over backwards. The X/O consisted of a cheap 'lytic capacitor that blocked the MR & T up to about 6K Hz.. The single L-pad 'controlled' both the MR & T, and the woofer ran all day. The "accoustic treatment" inside the enclosures consisted of a single 8" x 10" x 1/4"sheet of cotton batting that been thrown in before the backboard was installed. I added another L-pad for the T and installed a 6 dB/octave X/O per their instructions. The first time I listened to the 'new' speakers I was hooked on DIY. I bought a Vacuum Tube Volt Meter and Signal a Generator kit from HeathKit so I could accurately wind my own inductors. You can build far better equipment than is available on the commercial market AT ANY COST, and build it for about 10 cents on the dollar. I was underwhelmed by the pictures of the commercial X/O : typical commercial hand-full-of-crap-thrown-at-the-wall. The chokes(inductors) looked like light ga. wire, the chokes were too close to each other and un-shielded so they will be subject to EMI from each other, and the caps' quality looked to be about on a par with the chokes. The inductors should be copper ribbon, and the caps should be very high quality film, such as polypropylene at least.

Happy Listening !


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  • Re: Help with speaker crossover selection - pkell44 17:19:46 06/18/05 (0)


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