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Chimed in to say...

... two things.

1. To do what you have already done. Replace the caps and call it good.
2. To rotate the woofers 180 degrees if you have not already.

#2 can help to compensate for when a woofer drifts downward due to the bobbin and surround sagging due to gravity.

But absolutely, do not start making crossover circuit changes without measuring - it's just not something you can do reliably by ear.

Okay three things...

One other thing you CAN do to have even more fun tweaking is get something called Equalizer APO if you use Windows and have a decent sound card. You can dial in all kinds of filters and equalization and listen to A/B changes ON THE FLY which is something you can only do in mono when making physical changes to one speaker at a time. Doing A/B filter changes digitally on the fly for a game changer for me. Any competent DIYer or designer will tell you that measurements are imperative. Well, sure, especially if observing (or obtaining) a flat response is the goal. But I find predicting the before/after behavior with modelling and even measuring to be a tedious approach because you cannot effectively preview the proposed changes. Being able to LISTEN to proposed changes ON THE FLY and even catalogue various options and switch between them is a game changer.

Equalizer APO and is not some lightweight plugin but an APO that actually replaces the APO in the Windows Audio Stack and many (including myself) have found it to be a very transparent equalizer/crossover.

That said, any quality digital EQ with your chosen playback platform and software will work. You CAN do this sort of experimentation by ear, but when combined with the basics (measurement) it can be a very valuable adjustment tool. It also eliminates "I changed it, it's good" expectation bias that is so prevalent in DIY tweaking endeavors.

Anyways, enjoy tweaking old speakers! Remember too that one of the most powerful tweaks/experiments requires no parts and no soldering:

PLACEMENT experiments. :-)

(Okay, four things... lol)

Distance from back wall, distance to chair, distance between speakers, and toe-in angle. Distance off back wall can change image depth perception dramatically. Further apart/toe'd in vs. tighter/no-toe-in is probably the first thing I would try.

Anyways,

Just chiming in - in the spirit of tweaking.

Cheers,
Presto



Edits: 03/25/25 03/25/25 03/25/25

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