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Hi All,
As I've noticed on several pairs of SCs of which were placed into our bedroom closet over a year ago, and finally remembering they were there just yesterday, but looking at their banana plugs which were tarnished, I'm looking for suggestions on how to best clean ( remove ) silver sulphide off of them? It seems while some prefer some form of silver cream, other warn again it's long term effects of leaving pits on the surface area, whereas other have mentioned some form or another of say a silver cleaning cloth. But I'm confused as to any particular brand, so could use some advice here..., and certainly appreciate anything one has to offer on this subject?.
TIA!.
O_o scar
Follow Ups:
FWIW ...
The recommendation I got with my Bocchino ICs with silver plated connectors was to use plain old Blitz Cloth for silver. It's a cloth impregnated with a dry polising compound.
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Thanks Sondek,
And Happier Belated New Year to you | your loved ones. I'm still enjoying the variants of the 6922s, you turned me onto..., thanks for your willingness to help me through those, it's more appreciated than you'll ever know.
Aw shucks.
I'm just happy that someone else gets to discover and enjoy the magic in those old bottles.
Hope you and Mrs. have been well.
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Don't be so modest | you've come to my assistance on more than one occasion. Of which I've never forgotten, nor taken said kindness for anything less than another caring human being.
I pray that you | your loved ones have many more seasons to enjoy yourselves | life itself.
Pure silver, like gold does NOT tarnish, or 'rust'.
However Pure silver is incredibly soft, and not used for very much
Sterling Silver, or 925, is 92.5% silver with the balance being coper, for strength. Copper will tarnish at the drop of a hat!
Typically the tarnish on silver alloys is a sulfide
As silver does not react to Oxygen.
The common source of sulfur to start this chain reaction is H2S, or Hydrogen Sulfide.
It can be accelerated by High Relative Humidity -
here are some sources of H2S/Sulfur:
Sources of tarnishing gases
Tarnishing gases may originate from the following sources (Ankersmit et al. 2005, Benson 2012, Selwyn 2004, Selwyn 1990):
Clays (e.g. certain modelling clays)
Drywall (poor quality)
Foods (certain ones such as eggs)
Glues (protein-based)
Heating fuel (especially coal-based)
Paints (certain ones)
People (intestinal gas emissions containing hydrogen sulfide)
Plaster casts (made with gypsum)
Pulp-and-paper industries
Sewer gases
Sulfur (elemental sulfur), sometimes used for:
Adhesives
Cement
Grout
Inlays in furniture
Munitions
Volcanoes and hot springs
Vulcanized rubber objects such as:
Ebonite
Latex gloves
Molding material (polysulfide rubber)
Pencil erasers
Rubber bands
Rubber gloves
Rubber o-rings
Rubber stoppers
Vulcanite
Water (some natural well water and bogs)
Wood (recovered from anaerobic environments)
Wool, wool felt
I have used paste and liquid polishes on silver (mostly Sterling, but some coin silver (10% Cu) for most of my life, and enjoyed wonderful results.
Most polishes are toxic, and will stain or damage cloth, wood or other porous materials attached to the silver piece.
Happy Listening
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Thanks 6bq5,
That's a very insightful explanation of what's what, yet it reads as if I'd be avoiding most types of polishes, could you by chance recommend a particular brand over the others?.
Thanks again.
Many years ago there was a product called "Silvo" - from the makers of Brasso
A liquid that one would rub on with a small cloth, and burnish till the surface was clean/shiny, allow to dry, then with a different cloth rub/burnish off the now white paste.
If a serving piece, silverware, etc, wash w/ soap & water (I was taught to use the hottest water possible for rinse, then dry with clean tea towel.
I have not seen Silvo in shops recently, but have had great results with Goddard's (a thick liquid) and Wright's (a paste).
Goddard's would be used as described above.
Wright's/pastes are a bit different:" they typically come with a sponge, that needs to be a bit damp, then with a bit of paste on the sponge/applicator, burnish the tarnished surface till you are happy, wash off w/ soap & water, then dry.
There are many polishes out there-
Goddard's active (critical) reagent is Octadecyl Mercaptan, 1.5% CAS#: 2885-00-9 not great for one's respiratory system... There is also some Isopropanol, 3%.
Have fun!
Happy Listening
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Thanks again, 6bq5,
I'm researching all said recommendations as I type this, and am definitely certain that more than likely I'll end up with several. As I'm the type that would rather have ample supplies when needed, than not.
Why do you suppose the tarnish is a sulphide? More likely it is silver oxide, and silver oxide is nearly as good a conductor as pure silver, so no worries.
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Lew,
I was basing this upon the various terms used on companies which actually made said pure silver or silver plated copper connectors, I just know being as anal retentive as I'm, I much rather clean them as required every 6 or so months.
Looks like a Furutech IEC I once used in a project. I love the design of the 3 contacts. Are you saying that Furutech says that connector will develop a silver sulphide coating in long term use? Maybe on Venus. (I think Venus has significant complexed sulfur in its atmosphere; earth not so much.) I feel like I am missing something obvious. Those contacts look like copper, not silver in the first place. Sorry if I am being dense.
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Good afternoon my time, Lew.
I usually place photos here of which are stored in my photo gallery as visual reminders of things I'm interested in, as I've collected three different type of iec inlets, namely copper | gold | rhodium types, yet I posed the question as it relates to incoming pure silver power cord connectors | as well as having silver plated copper banana plugs and ac connectors currently in use, as I'd merely like a safe method of cleaning them accordingly.
So sorry I insisted the deposit would be an oxide. I see now it would likely be a sulphide, to my great surprise.
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No worries.., it was all sorted out.
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Thanks Story,
I'll look it up now...
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This is what I use,with superb results ,finished off with pure alcohol and finally Kontak .
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Thanks Tangram,
I recall seeing this in one of your last postings, now I understand why...
it would be wise to not use a liquid
Before you begin learning how to polish a flute, first you'll need to acquire the right accessories. Specifically, you'll need a polishing cloth. Many flutes come with a polishing cloth when first purchased. However, if yours doesn't, you can find a high quality polishing cloth at any music store, or online.
When you're polishing a flute, don't use silver polish or other liquids. Although it can be tempting to give your instrument an extra shine, liquid polish isn't recommended because it can damage the instrument's finger pads and cause the metal to rust.
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