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Hi, more of a machinist than a an electrical geek. I am building a new set of amps and considering carving some solid aluminum blocks to replace the stamped steel bells on the pt and opt. I was thinking to make the through fasteners studs and have some nuts on the back side. Is there any reason this would not be a good idea?
Thanks in advance for your kind attention.
Bill
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Here are some pictures:
Nice!
Thanks, Bill
I'm not a commercial machinest, but I do make my own chassis and other hardware using a small CNC mill and benchtop lathe. That's an interesting idea regarding the clamping hardware. The only potential problem I would see is strength. Steel end bells are expected to be able to bend a little if necessary without damage when they're tightened down onto the laminations. You'll need to be sure the aluminum is thick enough not to crack when it's tightly installed, and a thin fishpaper gasket might not be a bad idea. Electrically, endbells probably look something like a shorted turn, and may provide a certain degeree of shielding as a result. In that regard, I wouldn't expect much difference between aluminum and steel.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
This is a cosmetic thing for me. I have inch and a half plate that I was going to fashion into replacement bell. It will be pocketed out on the inside for the wires but appear solid on the outside. Make the transformers look different. Hey it is the machinist side of DIY.
Love it!.... that from an older machinist. ;^)
Some LONG studs... alignment will be tricky. Female threaded inserts could be used - or just tap the aluminum if it's thick enough. Remember that the bolts should be insulated - cover them with shrink tubing and use insulating shoulder washers at the end(s). Some like threaded rod and acorn nuts...
"Remember that the bolts should be insulated"
Some transformers do this, others not. There is no insulation on the brass bolts in my Magnequest FS-100 transformers. It should be sufficient to copy the originals being removed.
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
should be insulated if ferrous as they will short the magnetic pathway. Non magnetic bolts and studs do not need this.
Stu
Mounting bolts can form a shorted turn that intercepts part of the magnetic flux, wasting power as heat in a power transformer, reducing inductance (and low-end response) in an output transformer. The major loop is chassis to bolt to top end bell to bolt to chassis. If bolts are insulated at one end, it breaks this loop. Smaller loops can be created if bolt threads contact laminations, so sleeve them too. Brass bolts or steel will have the same problem - brass would be worse as it's more conductive.
I have done the bolt insulation experiment on
various power transformers that did not have
insulated bolts and was able to shave off
several milliamps of primary excitation current
with the bolts fully insulated.I think it's
a good idea to insulate those bolts for the lowest losses.
Regards,
Swanson
Thanks for the explanation. I believe I follow you.
It would be easy enough to slide some weather head plastic tubing over the stud shanks..
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