Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share your ideas and experiences.
Return to Planar Speaker Asylum
70.88.186.213
I have been driving my 3.6 with a Classe CA-300 amp. I have been thinking of upgrading my amp to something else. Has anyone here had experience with a set-up similar to mine and can suggest an upgrade option? I like the sound of the Classe CA-300 and its bigger brother, the Classe CA-400/CA-401 is an option. But I was wondering if there are other amps to consider that would bring even more out of the 3.6 maggies. Thanks to all!
Follow Ups:
From what I can gather, bi-amping seems to be the way to go. I will explore that option. Can anyone lead me to posts/threads or anywhere where I can find more info about how to bi-amp the MG-3.6s?
Instructions are available in your manual, Pg 10
For this you need an electronic crossover such as provided by Marchand
http://www.marchandelec.com/
Bryston
Audio Research
Krell
If you are all digital consider the Behringer digital crossover, it can be modified by Endleraudio (cheap and effective), RAM, Tweakaudio, and Underwood HiFi http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?misceqal&1247877576
Also, as an initial effort, instead of biwiring (manual page 11) from one amp, connect the bass wires to the new bass amp. It is not as big a change as with an electronic crossover, it is still a major improvement simply due to lowering the strain on the upper amplifier.
An interesting option for amplification is a multichannel amp like the Parasound 52 and the Adcom 7805, http://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweramps/304adcom/ Or any of the great amplifier builder's multichannel efforts. Many were reviewed by AV revolution http://www.avrev.com/equipment-reviews/equipment+reviews/home+theater+power+amplifiers/multi-channel+amplifiers/order/rdate/limit/5/start/0.html
Good luck
Satie,
Thank you very much for your informative post.
I already have a spare multichannel amp. It is a Classe CA-150, a 6 channel amp rated at 150wpc @ 8 ohms (it can be bridged to 3 channels @ 300 wpc). I also have the Classe CA-300 (2 channels @ 300 wpc @ 8 ohms) which I am using to drive the MG-3.6.
Based on what you wrote, it sounds as if all I have to do is buy the Behringer digital crossover (a new one, unmodified, sells for $300 on the net) and some speaker cable (I am sure I have spare cables somewhere) and start experimenting.
Which amp would you use for the bass and which for the mid/treble?
Looks like you are all set for a start.
I suggest you use the stereo amp on the bass and the bridged amp on the top. The bridged amp will have less current available than the stereo amp at the same output power rating so it should be placed on the lower power load, which would be the mid/treble section. You will also have the benefit of a true balanced differential amp when using the bridged multichannel on the mid/treble.
If you intend to use the Behringer, you need to note the following:
-You will use the digital input to the DCX right off of your CD player or DVD/SACD.
-You will need a volume control on the line outputs for each of the 4 signals coming off the Behringer. This will require either 2 preamps (Economical choices are King Rex for new or Acurus/Aragon line stages for used) or passive in-line attenuators like those from tweakaudio or endleraudio.
-You will want to have the Behringer modified at least as far as Endler's mods. It is after all only a $300 piece of kit.
Satie,
What do you mean by "You will also have the benefit of a true balanced differential amp when using the bridged multichannel on the mid/treble."?
I saw very good write ups about the Bryston crossover that you mentioned. I think I saw a used one for about $1k. Would that be a better choice for crossover? If I'm using the Bryston I can avoid having to use the steps that you mentioned for the Behringer, namely having to connect the CD/DVD/SACD directly to the Bryston and having to add the two preamps, is that correct?
The downside of the Behringer is that it has a digital volume control that provides a maximum of 8 bits in its 32 bit processor for volume control before eating into the 24 bit signal. That comes to a 24 db range of control. That is too narrow a range in real use, like the difference between a symphony orchestra and a piano quartet. The chamber group is still plenty loud.
If you use a volume control before the analog inputs of the Behringer (normal preamp), then you will have to choose between having the loud portions of the signal cut off, or have the resolution drop below 24 bits. Well below, as most of us adjust volume in about a 30-35 db range. Therefore, if you set the input sensitivity to your normal high listening level, then at low level listening you will have less than 14 bit resolution. And as low as 10 bits.
The Bryston 10 is a great sounding crossover, and would get my highest recommendation unless you must have an all tube signal path.
The output stage of the Classe multichannel amp is single ended: the live is at +V and the ground is at 0. When you bridge, one amp stage does +V and the other does -V so you have double the voltage and the output is cleaner because each of the positive and negative legs has its correlated distortion and noise canceled by the other's. This provides a further increase in usable output.
I reiterate the suggested biamp as the next step up - triamping is better. Once the CAM is freed of the woofer - particularly that big set of inductors you will not believe how it can sing.
Then you can go to a class D bass amp, or go Pro Audio. I don't have a problem with switching amps, but many people are "allergic" to something in their sound. The Nuforce amps have peak power of 1KW or so. The EVO amps are restricted somewhat by their linear power supply. The PS Audio amps are also great value and the short lived EVS amps are too, Spectrons and carvers and the many others like the H2O vary in bass quality and value. In pro-audio, I would suggest the Macro-Tech series from Crown. I use a 5002vz - it has an ample 2.5 kW into 4 ohms and is probably overkill even for my Tympani. You can buy a used 2400 or 2402, or a Macro-Reference (a better piece but older design) and if you find 1.2kW insufficient, you can parallel bridge them (bridges current rather than voltage so it can drive down to 2 ohms and below) into monoblocks. They will set you back $800-900 used and there are plenty of Macro Techs out there. There are plenty of other choices from pro audio, though they are not all as good. The Brystons are better, but you need to go beyond the ubiquitous 4 since it does not have enough power for live level performance, and the higher models will set you back far more - at least double for the same power output.
hey nicoff,
before you go into the finer details of how much better amp X will sound against amp Y, there is no (absolutely NO) amp that will drive the MG3.6Rīs better than an active setup -i.e. with an electronic crossover !
that statement is well documented and supported by ALL who have gone bi- or triamp mode.
-and almost regardless of what quality amps ....
the amplifiers get soo much more control over the drivers because the poor stock passive crossover is "mudding" the signal. maggies do like a lot of current from the amps and do also like a low output resistance. switching amps (alias class D) do often offer this and are generally tremendous value.
an active biamping system with a good electronic crossover and , say, two wyred4sound amps will make ALL (!) mega-bucks amp sound like a joke in comparison.....
there is no one, who has gone back to the passive crossover, once they have experienced the gain of active.
consider it well before you throw your cash !
I was driving them with 150 w/chnl Rogue tube monoblocks.
I switched to Bi-amp, keeping the Rogues on the upper freq's.
I'm using a 1000 w/chnl into 4 ohn Class D on the lower side of the 3.6's. I do have a sub running the ultra lows
The big power REALLY pumps a bigger range out of the 3.6's.
Very affordable too, cooler smaller box, less power usage.
The 3.6 has high power demand so the amp you have now fits that well. The amps I have used are in biamp mode. The 3.6 is just lightweight in the midbass/bottom end for me. I use a sub from 80Hz down and xover at 200/250 per maunfacturer. I use tubes on top/ Quicksilver silver mono or a custom made Eico HF89 at 70wpc, and a Rotel RB1080 400wpc/into 4-Ohms, and have tried the Bryston 4BST, Quicksilver V4, Legacy 600wpc/Coda, Parasound JC-1, and Proton. The JC-1 in the bottom is spectacular, with tubes on top. The Bryston 4BSST,14BSST or SST-2 is supposed to be magical. I am getting my 4BSST in about a week. This will be 500wpc into 4 ohms and should be adequate. The Rotel just lacks the ultimate control, but is still very good, especially if you are on a budget. The 7BSST is also said to be good. Bryston and Maggies are supposed to be one of those synergestic audio marriages which create magic....we shall see....Jallen
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: