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Hello all - I am building a variant of the 3 shelf diy flexy rack i only real difference is I am using a 'sandwich' shelf construction of 3/4" mdf attached with 100pieces of blu tack to 3/4 wood. Nice thick, heavy, DEAD shelf.Now, I want to veneer the whole thing. I dont want to paint it. Anyone done this before? Come out good?
Also, I did the traditional 3 leg flexy. Even after EVERYTHING is tightened down, the rack has a touch of wobble to it. Is this normal? Does the 4 leg version do that?
Thanks!
Follow Ups:
I would suggest that you oversize the top layer of your composite shelf. Then use 1-1/2 or 3 inch sold wood stock attached to the top layer. This solid stock should be wide enough to hide the bottom layer and the blue tack. This approach solves part of the veneering job. Edges tend to be the most difficult to veneer and also the most susceptible to damage. Solid stock overcomes this.
DaveT
Eliminate the need for veneer and not compromise the sandwich: genius!
Veneering the sides of this design will defeat the sandwich construction principle. By glueing the sides to a rigid piece of material you are losing the dampening effect of the blu tac. The best way to get both looks and function would be to veneer and finish each half shelf separately. After they're done put them together with the blue tac.
I am actually going to veneer the 2 pieces as separate units, i.e using 2 separate pieces of 3/4" veneer. Not 1 big 1 1/2" pieceregards
I've done a lot of veneering, using both real wood and laminates. It really is pretty easy. Use a good quality contact cement and do the edges just like the tops. The only difference is that, because the edges absorb the glue more you will need at least two coats and probably more. Make sure to wait till each coat is dry before recoating (usually about 20 minutes)Also, if you are using real wood veneer put two coats on it also. After the final coat is on make sure the glue on both the shelf and the veneer is dry to the touch (no glue comes off on your finger when you touch it) before pressing them together. after sticking them together use a roller of some kind to put a lot of pressure on them.
Yeah, the veneer guy at Rockler (?) told me the same. I bought a sheet of 4' x 8' cherry, with edgebanding cherry as well.He suggested 2 to 3 coats glue on the edges, 1 coat on the ply, and maybe 2 coats on the mdf. Also said clear polyurethane or stain/poly when done is a must for protection. Do you agree?
Thanks
The cherry should come out great. I've done a lot of veneering with laminates(formica-like coverings). I just recently did my first job with real wood veneer (speaker and sub cabinets in natural maple) and the results were beautiful. I used 4 coats of polyurathane over the natural(not stained)wood veneer. The only problem I encountered was that the wood veneer has a tendancy to wrinkle as it drys. Take your time on the larger areas (faces or tops of the shelves) and leave them clamped for several days to avoid this. I didn't realize that contact cement can take up to a week to cure. Knowing this would have saved me a lot of sanding hours.
It is supposed to wobble. Thats the design and reason it is called Flexy. (along with having flexible shelving).If you want it solid, then you have to do 4 legs, no rubber washers and larger steel washers.
Intersting. I thought it was supposed to be solid as a rock.I did 2 shelves with doubled mdf/ply attached with blutack, clampde in 6 places overnight, and 1 shelf with just mdf. My cd DEFINITELY sounds better on the double shelf, so I am goign to add another ply piece at the top. My only concern will be that added weight at the top will induce more wobble
regards
Here's a pic below of my flexy which is veneered in cherry. The cut edges of MDF are a little difficult to veneer becasue the MDF soaks up the glue like a sponge. I sealed the edges with several coats of clear lacquer before applying the glue.The real problem that you're going to have is with the constrained layer (= BlueTak) between the shelves. When you tighten the nuts down on the shelves, the blueTak is going to compress more at the corners of the shelves (near the nuts) than in the center. This will cause the shelves to bow a little and will likely cause the veneer on the edges to crack.
Yes, the flexy wobbles a little bit but not severely.
I dont have many tools, so what is the best way for me to get spikes coupled to the rods? Someone suggested using rounded 'end' nuts on the bottom of the rack, and replied that a rounded nut is almost as good as a spike.Any thoughs?
If you require spikes there are a couple options. If you have a wheel grinder use it to grind down the rod ends to the proper size point that will penetrate carpet. Second option, easiest and most flexible, is to use coupling nuts screwed on to threaded rod, proper sized thread reducers can then be screwed into the coupler (use locktite) to accept whatever spike thread size you wish to use.
I had considered the shelf warping, so I have 2 clamps per shelf, as we speak (with protection for the wood, of course), tightened down like an SOB on the mid front and mid rear of each shelf. I am hoping this helps ameliorate any clamping effects.Couple of questions :
How did you thread your points on the bottom of the unit? Also, what kind of tubing do you have around the rods? Looks pretty cool. Is it serving a sonic purpose? I have some radio shack 'Wire Organizer' black plastic tubing, that fits nicely over the rods and looks really cool. But until I listen to it with and without, I am not sure if I am going to keep it.
How about any veneering tips? Never tried it before
Thanks
The clamps ain't gonna do it. As soon as you release them, the bluetak will decompress and you'll be back where you started. I tried a similar thing with my first flexy and failed miserably for the same reasons. You'll do much better simply gluing the shelf pieces together.
I have a drill press and drilled the ends of the rods to accept spikes. You'll have to take the rods to a machine shop and have the ends drilled or, find a friend with a lathe or a drill press. Some Inmates have been able to get such things done cheaply at local vo-tech schools or even in high school shop classes. A reasonable alternative is acorn nuts (pictured above) which you can get from McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com).
The spacers are simply pieces of 1-1/2-inch black PVC pipe. I have no idea if they serve any sonic purpose. I did it becasue I got tired of tightening all those nuts. My rack is held together with only two nuts per rod, one on top and one on the bottom. Also, since I could cut the spacers accurately on my radial arm saw, my shelves are perfectly level; important becasue I now have my TT on the top shelf.
Do a search on "veneering" or "veneer" in Tweakers Asylum. This topic has been discussed several times in the past and there are some good tips to be had. There are several ways to approach veneering and a search will allow you to see several ideas on the topic. I used paper-backed veneer and contact cement.
I actually found someone who recommended using reducing coupler nuts so I can thread a 1/2 or m6 metric spike. Said it was much easier and more flexible than drilling the rods.Will try it.
If the clamping doesnt work, I am considering simply adding an extra 'short rod' of 1 1/2" at the corners on the 'single' end of the flexy to avoid the 'bowing' problem.
However, maybe I didnt use thick enough blu tack, bceause the bowing problem is very insignificant, maybe 1/16", tops. You really think that much bending will break veneer? Hell, I have veneered shelves with heavy books on them that are more bowed than that.
Anyway, I will let you know how it turns out! I am new at veneering, and if it looks like shit, well, then I will use stain next time!
Regards
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