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In Reply to: RE: So what's your point posted by pictureguy on July 11, 2021 at 15:17:06
Below is a link to a Hammond chassis which is larger (17" x 10" x 4") than a ST-70 chassis, and I think it's better looking, unless you're REALLY into Dynaco nostalgia. It would give you more room to work, you'd be able install a higher value choke, and perhaps even two 5AR4 rectifiers. It's on sale for $86.42 at the moment.
Since it's made of aluminum, you'd be able to put in the IEC AC inlet of your choice, and still use the VTA, or some other input circuit. Dynakit parts sells a transformer kit, and so do some other places. Another nice thing about a larger chassis is that you could actully fit a binding post for the 16 ohm tap on the back, in addition to the 4 and 8 ohm taps. Notice on the current version of the ST-70, the 16 ohm tap is capped off internally because there isn't room for the two extra (larger) binding posts.
Rather than buying a kit, and immediately start modifying the chassis, giving yourself a "proper" sized chassis from the onset will make your experience easier, long term. I can't vouch for the quality of the Hammond, it's more about giving you other ideas.
Follow Ups:
A terrific idea, at that.Need to do some MORE obsessing and reading.
Wonder IF it would be possible to buy a PAIR of the M125 MONOBLOCKS from VTA and put 'em BOTH in a single chassis?
It'd take 2 men and a boy to move it, but WOW........
first? The wooden side panels are Beautiful. Finish with Teak oil and do a quarter round treatment on ALL exposed sides? Nice.
Downside? ALL THOSE HOLES in the rite spot AND of the perfect size. It would be neat to mimic the orignal layout with just a LITTLE more space in some places. Room for a bias meter, too, with switching. And if you went with the SS rectification, plenty of room for the time delay relay board.
Let me look up some other things to get an idea how much $$ more this'd be than the VTA amp.....
Too much is never enough
Edits: 07/11/21
Excellent idea! Wiring the power supply and output stages is straightforward, and driver boards can be purchased off the shelf if you don't want point-to-point in that area. And being as you both raised the issue of rectifiers, I would strongly consider using two 5AR4s in any ST-70 clone and adding PRV diode protection.
Yes, people online argue all day long about insignificant details, and most have absolutely no evidence to back up the supposed benefits of what they propose. You won't go wrong if you stick to the basic requirements and keep it simple. :)
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Buy Chinese. Bury freedom.
I think that a step back might be in order. You're leading an OC engineer away from a simple kit build to redesigning a power supply. And you know that's just for starters. It's going to take this guy years of obsessing to get this thing working.
My neighbor is an EE and an OC type. I know what's coming and it's not going to be sweet music. My neighbor can tell you how quantum switching works but he can't fix a toaster or solder a wire.
If this guy is unhappy with this kit then he should move on. Perhaps buy himself a nice built tube amp and then hobby build this thing on the side.
At least I have the Advantage of having learned to Solder from a Mil-Spec rated person.....
And after having owned a Unger Imperial Iron (relic) I finaly broke down and bought a real Hakko soldering station....
Too much is never enough
"Wiring the power supply and output stages is straightforward"
I meant to add that to my reply, that the original Dynaco ST-70 assembly manual has step by step instructions, so a beginner could have that resource to follow in addition to the schematic, if they need it.
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