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Hi all.
I´m newbie posting and I´m finding some help. I´m doing this same question in other forums.
Two weeks ago I received from a friend a Croft Series X amp.
I can´t find any info on internet about this amp, and want to ask if somebody can tell me something about the schematic, tubes, etc..
I tested it and the volume is very low, I don't know if the tubes are what they should be and if they are in the right place (have 2 12AU7, 2 12AX7). This use 6080 tubes in the power section.
I send it to a tech guy and he tell me exactly "sell that, it is a circuit that demands a lot from the valves, it is very hot and since it does not have transformers at the output, the speakers are at risk".
I see the amp in original condition, very neatly and I would like to investigate well before making a decision. I would rather keep it if everything was fine.
Many thanks
Follow Ups:
Hello,
Croft amps seem to be held in high esteem in England, where they are from, and in Europe. There do not seem to be a lot of them in the US, but there are many reasons that might be the case (other than them being bad).
Is yours a 'Series X', or is there a series number? Knowing the series number would likely progress things a lot. Useful also to understand if it is 220v or 120v before you proceed.
Please post a picture(s) of the amp - that would be really helpful.
OTL amps are certainly not the norm, and likely most techs would rather not work on them.
regards -- Roger
Hi Roger, many thanks for your answer. Attached you´ll find some pictures about the amp. It´s a Series X working on 220V, but I think, related to the power cord, this was for american market in 110V an then somebody take the 220V from de transformer.
Its not clear to me if this is a mono or stereo unit.
This amp have a selector in the rear, can be used stereo or mono. Attach a picture.
So it has two power tubes per channel for about 10 Watts into 16 Ohms.
Doesn't it then have one 12AX7 and one 12AT7 per channel? That was not obvious in the prior photos.
No, the amp came to me with one 12AX7 and one 12AU7 per channel.
Tha's what I'm not sure about those configuration is correct.
It won't damage the circuit.
This amplifier is old enough that its a very good idea to replace the power supply filter capacitors and the output coupling capacitors before running the amp. Otherwise you are taking a risk with the power transformer and replacing that will be expensive!
The other part of the rear
As a newbie, it is IMPORTANT to note that tube amps operate at high voltage that can fry you if you do not know what you are doing, and are not careful (even if you do know what you are doing).
If it is currently wired for 220v and you are using it with 120, it is effectively running at 1/2 power, which MIGHT explain the low volume. If it has 120 taps on the transformer, you might want to change the wiring from the 220 taps to the 120 taps.
The amp looks to be fairly clean, and may have been upgraded at some point in time. Likely the output is fairly low, on the order of 10W (see Croft Troubadour, which looks quite similar).
It seems that Croft used a capacitor to isolate each output side from the speaker, so blowing up the speakers is not so likely. You would have to trace the signal from the power tubes to the output lugs - the blue capacitors behind the power tubes might be isolating capacitors.
Not sure how to address the tube issue if you think they are not correct. You could look at other Croft OTL amps and see what tubes he used. Apparently Croft did not release schematics. The amp is wired point to point, so you could make a schematic yourself by mapping out the wiring.
Perhaps the amp will come up at 120V when wired for 120V, and all will be well. If not, then a deeper dive will be required. If you speakers will operate well with 10 watts, then it could be a fun project.
regards -- Roger
You are right Roger, both blue capacitors are in between tubes and output lugs.
Maybe I was not clear, sorry, I live in Argentina and the voltage here is 220V. Apparently taking power cord in consideration, originally the amp was for 120V, but then somebody change the transformer tap to 220V. I see a cut cable isolated with tape.
Maybe can return the amp to 120V and did a new test.
I was finding others 6080 OTL schematics, and they use 12AX7 and 12AU7 too and maybe that´s all and the power should be no more than 10W.
On the Troubador, Glenn Croft used 2xECC83 and 1xECC81 driver/phase splitter. My amp came with 2xECC83 and 2xECC82, that´s my questioning and doubt about the output power, ECC82 is the lowest gain of its.
Both amps look very similar in design.
It would appear that the driver tube is the 12AT7 (ECC81) and the input voltage amplifier tubes are the 12AX7s.
This amp likely uses negative feedback. So it would need the gain of the 12AX7s to be successful at that.
I´m thinking the same Ralph, 12AT7 in place of 12AU7.
Certainly you should be using the correct power taps on the transformer for your local power (220V).
If you look at the data sheets for the two ECC tubes, you should be able to determine if they are interchangeable. At an initial glance, it looks like the operating requirements and pinouts are the same. I am no expert on this. You might want to give them a close look to confirm, and then give it a try - could be an easy solution. The ECC82 may have been used to effectively decrease the sensitivity of the amp, for whatever reason.
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/e/ECC81.pdf
https://frank.pocnet.net/sheets/084/e/ECC82.pdf
I´m very confused, saw a Croft Troubadour sold on Audiogon, saying "4 x 12AX7 ; 4 x 6AS7 tubes".
You can do a search on Croft Troubadour, or Croft OTL, here, and between current and ended items there should be a number of different amps listed. You can take a look at the tube configuration, and if most are the same, then that is likely the original tube configuration. People swap tubes for various reasons, and with various effects.
https://www.hifishark.com/search?q=croft+troubadour
A good strategy might be to set the power configuration of the transformer to correspond to your local power. If there is still a volume problem, you might want to try the alternate ECC tube with more gain. Once you get the amp up and running, it is pretty easy to do tube substitutions to get where you want to go based on the audio result of the swap.
It may be challenging to get specific information on the Croft amp, but you will have no difficulty getting replies from the board on various tube substitution possibilities, and often all the info you need from a web search.
Sounds like you are trying to figure a precise end-game on the tubes, which I think is going to be hard without hearing what the results are.
You are right Roger, but I´m only trying to find some deep information before to start with tests.
The Troubadour I saw have 12AT7 and 12AX7 in driver position, never see a 12AU7 on this amp.
I promise after all it, to publish the schematic of the Series X, in case another one need helps.
No problem - some times it is too easy to circle the problem rather than going right at it. Something I do on occasion, like a Futterman H-3 that I need to finish.
Looking forward to progress reports. That is a very neat amp, and should provide some good listening.
-
Here a picture of the front.
Welcome to the asylum-
Sounds like your tech does not like OTL amps-
having said this- I can't comment much further as I have not been able to find a schematic or much else on this amp on the web...
Happy Listening
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