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In Reply to: RE: Great - thanks for your input, Barry! :-)) ... posted by Roger Gustavsson on May 07, 2015 at 08:10:25
The store owner made him a deal ... he couldn't refuse! :-))
They were supposed to be A$600, so ~USD470. But one channel wasn't working - so the guy said my mate could have them for A$200 - about USD160! That would have to be the cheapest Maggies sold anywhere! :-))
I know the store owner and so I believed him when he said they were working at the previous owner's place, 6 months ago ... so I'm sure once we strip off the sack-cloth and study the wires and the connectors, I can fairly rapidly get the damaged channel working.
We did listen to one channel and that sounded great; I also felt (as best I could, under the thick cloth) to see whether there were any loose wires ... and I couldn't find any.
So we will just have to see, when my mate has organised to get them home.
Re. "diffuse imaging" of the T-1s ... I can understand this, given the normal zig-zag panel placement. But by arranging the panels in an arc, as Satie suggested, in separate hardwood frames and driven 2-way active, I'm thinking they should sound quite good.
Regards,
Andy
Follow Ups:
Quite the deal then. For that little money you can justify restoring the speakers even if nothing was working.
Once the problem with the non functioning driver is solved you need to make feet for the speakers to make the equidistant arc placement possible. I suggest you wait with the framing project and first just figure out how to brace the panels (at least the bass panels)
What I'm thinking of, Satie, is to repeat what I did for my IIIas:
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... one pair of A-frames for each panel. I might change the base from that U-shaped steel base - which was fine for the IIIa (which is all on one frame) - to 1.5" thick wooden bases (1 per frame), like I've used on my Frankenpans.
Andy
Note that you want the legs not to jut forwards outside the edge of the panel so as to facilitate a curved (concave) placement scheme without creating a gap between the bass panels (gap = less bass)
BTW the 1st order XO for the T 1D is really asking for PLLXO just two caps and a resistor. Just do them symmetrically on the electronic side for the equidistant placement, it comes off better then the stock slopes that overlap some (I am thinking in order to accommodate the arrival time difference in magnepan's recommended placement)
Yes, I will use a "Stealth" approach (with apologies to Mye!) with a U-shaped base made of 1/4" steel U-channel, so the panels rest on the floor in front of base. (The struts will be bolted to the base.)
According to the Magnepan schematic, the T1-D's XO is:
* HP @ 1,136Hz and
* LP @ 930Hz.
Anyway, I'll do a sim in lspCAD and see how that looks. Initially, the guy wants to use a miniDSP 2x4 unit instead of a PLLXO, to actively bi-amp, as this will also give him room correction. But we'll see how this sounds.
Regards,
Andy
not as good...
The T-1D tweeter is not as fast as the ribbon is but is still plenty capable of detail retrieval so cheap DAC artifacts will likely "shine" through.
the room processing facilities may well do a lotta good.
Andy
If I had those Tympani I think I would build a 21st century equivalent to Harry Pearson's Infinity ribbon/Tympani hybrids (TAS ca. 1976). A pair of Strathearn ribbons or ribbons excised from Carver Amazings or perhaps the ribbons that Parts Express currently sells plus a Dahlquist DQ-LP1 active crossover. For around US$1500 what an amazing speaker that should make.
The stereo imaging that my T-1C produced was not diffuse. The image was on the large side... and fun. They were the first speakers I ever heard that produced tangible sound stage depth. I remember listening to The Weavers at Carnegie Hall, the audience softly sings along during "Good night Irene". Stunning.
that the imaging of your T1-Cs wasn't diffuse. I think the way we plan to do it - with the panels arranged in an arc (tweeters in bcoz he has a narrow room so the outer bass panel will be against the wall, on each side) - will do something good for imaging, compared to the bizarre 'zig zag' setup.
If I was taking them to the max, I would make some "FrankenTymps" by either:
* turn it into a 3-way by making the tweeter cover just the mids and add a true ribbon for the highs, or
* replace the tweeter panel with a line of Neo8s plus a true ribbon.
Regards,
Andy
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