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In Reply to: RE: 8200 Scratchy Volume Control. posted by cabelok on November 12, 2017 at 15:01:02
Hello, I know this an old post, but I am new here. My stock pot was silent, have you checked your solder joints? Always a good place to start troubleshooting. You may have a defective pot, it happens. As far as an upgraded pot, I installed a TKD 2CP-601 50K, pretty painless install. I have seen folks that have modified the unit 3 board to install an Alps blue pot, too much work for me, considering the TKD is a drop in. The TKD is more expensive, between $30-$35 US.
Thanks Shawn. I had a problem with a solder joint (RCA sockets) it wasn't the pot at all. Discovered it by accident - the same crackle was in the speaker when I moved an IC, totally quite now. I bought the new ALPS pot but didn't want to modify the PCB seeing I had it fixed. Maybe in the future. What benefit do you think is had by upgrading?
Glad you got that figured out! Upgrading the volume control is not going to significantly change the sound quality of the amp. However a better quality pot. will have better signal parity between the chanels and a more consistent level control. Durability is also a factor. It's a great sounding amp even completely stock. Enjoy!
I assume we have the same amp. What tubes have you found the most satisfying? Have you upgraded it at all from stock? What speakers do you drive?
Leo, I am running nos Tung-sol 6550 and nos RCA 12au7a, I am really liking this combo. The 6550 nos are a little expensive, but I have heard the new re-issssue Tung-Sol 6550 sound pretty good as well. As far as upgrades;
Mundorf Silver oil Supremes for the coupling caps, Takman carbon film resistors, the aforementioned pot and a few electrolytic caps replaced with Nichicon FG Muse. The resistors seemed to have the most effect on sound quality. HTH
Shaun, which and to what resistors did you upgrade to?
i stop to use this forum
please email me
i suggest to replace the volume pot
One more thing. I had a pair of JJ KT88's which sounded good but the amp ran a little hot within a short time so I sent them back. How hot does it run with the 6550's?
I'm a bit weary buying NOS tubes at this stage. So far I like the new Tung Sol EL34B best with Tung Sol 6189 NOS. The Syslvania tall bottle 6L6GC is also sweet.
Oops! I almost forgot, speakers are a kit from Madisound, BK-20 Fostex based folded horns. The 8200 drives these with no problem.
I'm in the process of building the smaller BK-12's. I run stereo subs. Once they're done I'll upgrade my speakers with Mundorf and Van Den Hul and Cardas and whatever is needed. The 8200 has no problem driving them, I nearly plumped for Tekton Lore Reference's they seem to get good reviews and are super efficient.
The amp runs hot no matter what tubes I am using, I'm not concerned with that. I figure they call them Thermionic valves for a reason. I have a 15w Otl power amp that uses 12 tubes total and keeps the room toasty while in use! I think you will like the BK-12ms, I had these and sold them to a friend when I built the BK-20s. They sound great and with your subs you should have good coverage. The Fostex full-range drivers require an extended break-in period, they are pretty harsh and shouty out of the box. A nice gentleman gave me a painless method; place the speakers face to face somewhere out of the way(spare room, garage etc.), say about 8" apart. Wire one out of phase with the other. I used a chip amp and my PMP set on a loop to play continuously. Threw a blanket over them and left them alone for about 4 days, which took the edge off considerably. Sounds crazy but it works, and nobody had to listen to it.
Thanks. It doesn't really run hot with 6L6GC's and EL34's. I can run it for a very long time. I use the very high tech method of back of my hand. Yes, I read that the Fostex's are rather harsh. Thanks for the advice. I was going to place them face to face under a blanket in the garage connected to my old Marantz receiver, I'll try your method. I like the sound of pure silver and initially was going to wire them internally with solid silver in PTFE insulation (DIY) but after reading that they are glary I opted for DH Labs Silver Sonic 14AWG speaker cable. I'm associated with wire harnessing (auto and appliance and a bit of electronics), I mess around quite a bit with wiring. Biggest shock was discovering that my B&W's used such crappy wiring inside and after changing a few things they were different speakers - Bass was there. My son commented "what happened to the bass?"
I built a Diy Headphone cable out of pure silver, but found it to be overly bright for my taste. I have gotten good results using Mil-spec silver plated copper though.
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